Should i modify my car or keep it OEM?
#1
Should i modify my car or keep it OEM?
About on week ago i had an accident in my 97 black on black maxima. I wrecked the front end and i will have to replace the front bumper, hood, and passenger corner light. I dont really want my car to look ricey so im considering buying a carbon fiberhood and painting repainting it black and im looking into a subtle aftermarket front bumper but i have not found anything or i might just buy oem parts. I have only owned toyotas before so im not too familiar with modifying nissans. What would you do in my situation?
Thanks 97BlackMaxima
Thanks 97BlackMaxima
#3
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do...bsubtypeId=216
By Jack Lanier
Friends Don't Let Friends Modify Cars
03-17-2005
Today, it's difficult to make cars better and extremely easy to make them worse. Or dangerous.
As a journalist driving modified cars, I've been sprayed with gasoline, boiling coolant, super-heated transmission fluid and nitrous oxide. (The latter was more entertaining than the former.) Several have burst into flames. Throttles have stuck wide open, brake calipers snapped clean off, suspensions ripped from their mounts and seatbelt mounting hardware has dropped into my lap. All this is on top of the expected thrown connecting rod, blown head gasket, exploded clutch, disintegrated turbocharger and broken timing belt.
The vast majority of these vehicles were built by professionals. Many were from big-name tuners. Most performed as if they were constructed in a shop class at a high school with a lax drug policy. Once, after a suspension component fell off a car from a big-name tuner, the car actually handled better.
For every modified and tuner car that performed better than stock, I've driven numerous examples that were slower. If they were quicker, it was often in an area that can't be used on the street. What's the use of gaining 0.2 second in the quarter-mile if the car is slower 0-60 mph? And costs $10,000 more?
Long ago — when your grandparents were kids and the president was Dwight Eisenhower — it was easy to improve cars. Back then, carmakers designed vehicles largely for production convenience. It's not difficult to improve the handling of a car that had one steering idler arm a little longer than a man's shoe and the other more than the length of his arm: Stiffen the suspension to the point that it doesn't move. Also, in the olden days, cars were so simple virtually anybody could work on them. Replacing the stock two-barrel carburetor (ask your grandfather) with a four-barrel reaped easy power: There were no sensors or computers to confuse, as often happens if you tinker with today's engines.
The Old Ones wonder why today's kids want to "improve" cars. This is partially because something like an '05 Mustang V6 — does the term "secretary's car" come to mind? — has more horsepower and is quicker than an '84 Corvette. Put both on the same tires and the '05 V6 would give the '84 Vette all it could handle on a road racing circuit.
I'm guilty of modifying cars. Mea culpa. In an effort to improve a very sweet handling sport sedan, I added the biggest antiroll bars and stiffest shocks I could find. The result sucked. One doesn't have to reinstall too many stock antiroll bars and redeal with a strut compressor to earn a bad attitude about modifying cars.
Recently, I autocrossed a pair of Subaru WRXs. One was a dead-stock WRX. The other, a tricked-out STi lowered with stiffer springs, shocks and bars and an exhaust kit and air filter. The STi is supposed to have an advantage of some 70 horsepower. Maybe the exhaust and filter moved the power up in the rev band where it couldn't be used. The lowered, stiffened STi regularly bottomed against its bump stops. When a car hits its bump stops, the spring rate goes to infinity and tire grip drops to near zero. This caused the STi to leap into the worst understeer I've experienced with inflated front tires. Meanwhile, in the unmodified WRX, I could be hard in the throttle at the same point. The result: The dead-stock WRX was at least as quick as the STi and far easier to drive. Easy to make worse, harder to make better.
Don't get me started on brake "upgrades." On one hand I can count the brake modifications that out-performed stock. Auto manufacturers spend millions of dollars on brake design, while aftermarket brake manufacturers often allow their customers to participate in the development process. Gulp.
Fitting larger-diameter wheels is another excellent opportunity to reduce performance. Wagon-wheel-sized wheels are all about bling and little about blast. Most larger-diameter wheels are notably heavier than what they're replacing: Aluminum is heavier than the air and rubber. This additional mass requires more horsepower to accelerate, more braking power to stop and more shock valving to control. Translation: Bigger equals slower. Also, lower-profile tires tend to be more difficult to drive at the limit. Most drivers will be quicker and in better control on 17s than on 19s.
On the street, it's almost impossible to accurately assess whether a modification has aided performance. People often judge handling by how the car rides and acceleration by noise: If it's rough and loud, it's got to handle better and be quicker, they think. This is the "Bactine Theory": If the medicine hurts, it must be working. The Placebo Effect also comes into play: If you've just spent a couple of grand to improve something, you will believe it's working.
The only modification that consistently produces positive results are tires. A change from original-equipment rubber to expensive gumballs will reap guaranteed thrills. If you like your car but want more from it, step up to the best ultrahigh-performance tire.
My best advice is this: If you don't like your car and want to make it better, buy something else.
Friends Don't Let Friends Modify Cars
03-17-2005
Today, it's difficult to make cars better and extremely easy to make them worse. Or dangerous.
As a journalist driving modified cars, I've been sprayed with gasoline, boiling coolant, super-heated transmission fluid and nitrous oxide. (The latter was more entertaining than the former.) Several have burst into flames. Throttles have stuck wide open, brake calipers snapped clean off, suspensions ripped from their mounts and seatbelt mounting hardware has dropped into my lap. All this is on top of the expected thrown connecting rod, blown head gasket, exploded clutch, disintegrated turbocharger and broken timing belt.
The vast majority of these vehicles were built by professionals. Many were from big-name tuners. Most performed as if they were constructed in a shop class at a high school with a lax drug policy. Once, after a suspension component fell off a car from a big-name tuner, the car actually handled better.
For every modified and tuner car that performed better than stock, I've driven numerous examples that were slower. If they were quicker, it was often in an area that can't be used on the street. What's the use of gaining 0.2 second in the quarter-mile if the car is slower 0-60 mph? And costs $10,000 more?
Long ago — when your grandparents were kids and the president was Dwight Eisenhower — it was easy to improve cars. Back then, carmakers designed vehicles largely for production convenience. It's not difficult to improve the handling of a car that had one steering idler arm a little longer than a man's shoe and the other more than the length of his arm: Stiffen the suspension to the point that it doesn't move. Also, in the olden days, cars were so simple virtually anybody could work on them. Replacing the stock two-barrel carburetor (ask your grandfather) with a four-barrel reaped easy power: There were no sensors or computers to confuse, as often happens if you tinker with today's engines.
The Old Ones wonder why today's kids want to "improve" cars. This is partially because something like an '05 Mustang V6 — does the term "secretary's car" come to mind? — has more horsepower and is quicker than an '84 Corvette. Put both on the same tires and the '05 V6 would give the '84 Vette all it could handle on a road racing circuit.
I'm guilty of modifying cars. Mea culpa. In an effort to improve a very sweet handling sport sedan, I added the biggest antiroll bars and stiffest shocks I could find. The result sucked. One doesn't have to reinstall too many stock antiroll bars and redeal with a strut compressor to earn a bad attitude about modifying cars.
Recently, I autocrossed a pair of Subaru WRXs. One was a dead-stock WRX. The other, a tricked-out STi lowered with stiffer springs, shocks and bars and an exhaust kit and air filter. The STi is supposed to have an advantage of some 70 horsepower. Maybe the exhaust and filter moved the power up in the rev band where it couldn't be used. The lowered, stiffened STi regularly bottomed against its bump stops. When a car hits its bump stops, the spring rate goes to infinity and tire grip drops to near zero. This caused the STi to leap into the worst understeer I've experienced with inflated front tires. Meanwhile, in the unmodified WRX, I could be hard in the throttle at the same point. The result: The dead-stock WRX was at least as quick as the STi and far easier to drive. Easy to make worse, harder to make better.
Don't get me started on brake "upgrades." On one hand I can count the brake modifications that out-performed stock. Auto manufacturers spend millions of dollars on brake design, while aftermarket brake manufacturers often allow their customers to participate in the development process. Gulp.
Fitting larger-diameter wheels is another excellent opportunity to reduce performance. Wagon-wheel-sized wheels are all about bling and little about blast. Most larger-diameter wheels are notably heavier than what they're replacing: Aluminum is heavier than the air and rubber. This additional mass requires more horsepower to accelerate, more braking power to stop and more shock valving to control. Translation: Bigger equals slower. Also, lower-profile tires tend to be more difficult to drive at the limit. Most drivers will be quicker and in better control on 17s than on 19s.
On the street, it's almost impossible to accurately assess whether a modification has aided performance. People often judge handling by how the car rides and acceleration by noise: If it's rough and loud, it's got to handle better and be quicker, they think. This is the "Bactine Theory": If the medicine hurts, it must be working. The Placebo Effect also comes into play: If you've just spent a couple of grand to improve something, you will believe it's working.
The only modification that consistently produces positive results are tires. A change from original-equipment rubber to expensive gumballs will reap guaranteed thrills. If you like your car but want more from it, step up to the best ultrahigh-performance tire.
My best advice is this: If you don't like your car and want to make it better, buy something else.
#5
Dont bother with aftermarket! They wont fit right, and the $100 you saved, you will wish you spent. If you get a carbon fiber hood, I think you will need to get different hood struts, since the originals are too strong.
If I were you, I'd just get it back to stock conditions. This would be good to add a stillen body kit if you are in to that.
If I were you, I'd just get it back to stock conditions. This would be good to add a stillen body kit if you are in to that.
#8
Good article on riceboy tactics.. but a properly modified car reaps plenty of benefits.. Everybody knows bigger wheels are slower, that didn't stop Lamborghini from putting 20's on their Diablos as stock equipment. You didn't buy your car just because of the speed, you liked the whole car. And if you want it to look nicer or perform differently, modding is the way to go.
(Whoever lowered an autocrossing STI to the point it hit bumpstops everytime it turned is NOT a professional tuner.)
Mod it
Just don't do anything stupid.
(Whoever lowered an autocrossing STI to the point it hit bumpstops everytime it turned is NOT a professional tuner.)
Mod it
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#9
1st post of the Modification FAQs I think this is a bit more optimistic on modding over the last quote but the above does show some good points that some mods aren't worth it and can actually make you slower or handle worse.
IMHO
Body kits = stillen kit, maybe some other tasteful things or nothing, C/F isn't worth it
suspension & power = I can't get enough but some mods are better than others, our cars are pretty fast stock and better with y pipe, and a few other things, but they handle like garbage stock.
lighting = 9007 conversion and red/clears, maybe clear bumper lights
audio = depends on what you want
It depends on what you want your car to be.
Remember stiffer, lower, bigger, and more expensive, etc. doesn't necessarily mean better.
Read and research before you buy that way you don't waste money when you could have just looked into it a bit more and saved yourself a lot of money and hassle.
http://maxmods.dyndns.org and the FAQs will provide a lot a stuff to get you started.
IMHO
Body kits = stillen kit, maybe some other tasteful things or nothing, C/F isn't worth it
suspension & power = I can't get enough but some mods are better than others, our cars are pretty fast stock and better with y pipe, and a few other things, but they handle like garbage stock.
lighting = 9007 conversion and red/clears, maybe clear bumper lights
audio = depends on what you want
It depends on what you want your car to be.
Remember stiffer, lower, bigger, and more expensive, etc. doesn't necessarily mean better.
Read and research before you buy that way you don't waste money when you could have just looked into it a bit more and saved yourself a lot of money and hassle.
http://maxmods.dyndns.org and the FAQs will provide a lot a stuff to get you started.
#12
Well i guess i never really had any plans to upgrade anything besides the audio system and lower it an inch or so. But since i had the accident i was just considering the possiblity since im going to have to paint and buy new parts anyway. Is the stillen "bumper" really just a lip on the bottom or is it a one piece bumper? A carbon fiber hood is going to cost me 380 + shipping or i can pick up a used hood for 175 ... do you guys think its worth the extra 205 for the carbon fiber?
Thanks
Thanks
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