i was wonderin what must u do if u want ur max to perform like from a cold start. the max takes off sooo much better and it responds almost instant when i step on the gas. i wish it could be like this all the time

 

yea my max feels so much more responsive from a cold start, esp at night when its cool out. i guess when the car starts to warm up something just happens. im guessing it could be the oil is thicker when cold giving better cylinder compression, then as it heats up it looses the viscosity. i dunno lol, i jus wish it ran all the time like it does from a fresh start.

 

bags of ice

 

even on a decently warm day (65-70) how much do let the car warm up? i sit in the car and idle for about 30 secs or so every time. is this good enough, or even necessary? i know that one of the worst things you can do is drive hard on a cold engine.

 

^ i no, i usually let it idle for 30sec nowadays b/c i'm always in a hurry
but back then in school, i had to punch it right when i started despite that bein bad.

 

You don't and wouldn't want your engine to run in a closed-loop all the time...

 

i always try to idle at least a minute..

 

It's the cool intake and heads that allow a denser air charge. Thats why the nitrous cooling effect adds horsepower in addition the the extra oxygen.

When I was young, I had a monte carlo with a built up (carbureted, non computer)350.. It was awesome from a cold start.

I always loved the bags of ice idea.

 

Cold, or cooler, air is denser then warm air. That is the function of an intercooler. The denser the air the more there is to react with the spark and the better the explosion in the combustion chamber.

I always liked to try and race early evening in the summers in my younger years. The heat of the day was gone and the air was just a bit chilly plus the sun was low in the sky.

 

so the cooler the temp, the better the response?

 

Typically, yes.

But here in Minnesota when it get's down to -40, the fuel does not atomize very well and resulting in wasting of fuel, not to mention causing flooding when you start. Fuel injection has done wonders in this area.

 

put on 3 trans coolers, and make sure the trans is always cold. then get a resistor to trick out the CTS. NTC type i believe.

 

yea when the car has been driven, and cooled down real quick over night, the fuel vapors in the heads fall out of suspension.

 

right so i guess only turbo charged cars get the cooler air benefit cause of the intercooler huh. does turning the heater on before racing have any affect?

 

ahh yes, the -40 nights! i love those you have to keep gas in your tank up to at least half to avoid condensation/seperation of the gas turning into water or something. that happened to me one night this past winter in a very cold snap. not good.

 

Turbocharged/supercharged cars actually will have hotter air (temperature and pressure change with each other), but they'll still make alot more power because air is being forced into the engine (it's more dense despite being hotter).

The colder air is more dense thing is the theory behind a CAI. They really don't add much power though.

 

Hmm...I guess it would, minimal at best..

 

i was wondering the same thing, sometimes from 1st to 2nd i shift so smoothly when its cold, but when the tranni is warmed its a bit jerky or sloppy. also launching seems more responsive like its all more 'tight' feeling. when its cold it feels like my KS problem is gone and i have that lost power back

 

seem like the opposite for me, when my engine is still cold, its really jerky between the 1 and 2 shift, feels like the clutch is catching easier when its cold.

 

I dont know why but i have a one to a two secound delay. when iam goin 5-90mph and hit the gas all the way down the cars rpm goes up to the 6000 and then lagg.

is this normal? or is there a problem?? help plz

 

that lag you feel is the power you lose in the top end, our stock intake manifold loses power after 5.5K rpm, so most likely you are losing power or you have a slipping clutch..

 

you have some coilpacks or MAF issues...I have the same problem and I'm not able to fix it since I can't find wich one is faulty....it's not about the oil thickness or the "bag of ice" stuff.....just check your coilpacks....

 

A good example of air density is to think of a pound of air. A pound of cold air occupies less space than a pound warm air. Air is approx. 21% oxygen and thats what were after for combustion. So more warm air has to be drawn into the TB to have same amount of available oxygen of cooler more dense air. My .02 cents worth.