I posted on this about a week ago and I bled my clutch today and it does the same thing. When at WOT on the shift from 1st to 2nd, if I shift to quickly when I release the clutch and floor it again, it feels as if the clutch isn't disengaging fast enough and I can watch the tach roll from 6-4.5 grand and then it feels like it catches..I can't even chirp second. The guy I bought the car from said there was a stage1 clutch in it, I don't recall the brand, but is the clutch shot? Should I just buy a new one and get it over with?

I'll be putting boost on my new car very soon, and I do not want to put up with this anymore. If I pause a milisecond after I let the clutch out and floor it, I have no problem- it just seems to "slip" if I am demanding alot of power right off the shift. Please help, need some advice- thanks.

Tyler

 

To go along with it I pulled 3 codes, this is the first time I've checked since I got the car:
1302- Map/Baro SW Solonoid/Valve
0304- Knock Sensor
0707- Rear Heated o2

Thats great, at least I know Im losing a nice amt of power with the knock sensor, but 1302 worrys me. Why would I pull a Manifold absolute pressure sensor? Vacuum leak? Im almost positive I have no leaks. What does this mean, where do I start?

Tyler

 

To the top.

 

1st off....why are you stomping on it in 1st gear? For what reason? Why do you want to chirp 2nd? You can kiss your clutch and your tranny goodbye if you keep it up.

You MAY still have an airpocket in the lines, or your slave or master cylinders could need to be replaced.

When my OEM clutch was slipping, the symtoms were;

in 3rd - 5th gear....above 3k RPM...then I give it more acceleration - the RPMs shoot up about 2k and then it revs back down to catch up.


If youre planning on boosting your car I highly suggest you stop ragging on it now, it sounds like your clutch MAY be on its last leg. You may want to upgrade to a stage 2 w/ lightweight flywheel.

 

Thank you, I don't reem on my car, I was meerly trying to hit second as a means to test it, and when I noticed that I couldn't I was concerned. I bled both master and slave today and it does the same thing. The RPM's don't jump up at all, but when the clutch disengages if I don't pause slightly, I can watch my tachometer fall from 7k or so to 4.5k over the course of 1-2 seconds, then it starts pulling regularly. Im going to end up getting a new clutch anyway, thank you.

 

Mine started out that way, now my clutch is shot. And my car barely moves on all gears. I'm still waiting on my clutch kit and rear main seal from Pinnacle Nissan. Hopefully it arrives tomorrow so I can put them in this weekend.

There are other ways to test if your clutch is still ok, chirping it isn't a way to test it. If anything you are stressing out the clutch more causing it to fail a lot more. Bleed the hydraulic first, also check the clutch master and slave cylinders and lines for leaks. If they are leaking, replace the part that is leaking. If you let it get worse, you will suddenly loose hydraulic pressure and you'll suddenly find yourself unable to shift to any gears. Also check the clutch pedal for play. If theres too much play on it, adjust the clutch pedal. If all else checks out and the problem still persists, chances are your clutch is gone. Its not impossible to toast any clutch, new or old.

You might want to look into Stage II clutches if you are going to boost like you said.

 

Alright, thanks for the advice. I really don't feel like paying $400 for a clutch though, thats going to set me back a few more weeks on my new turbo. The whole thing is kinda depressing- the guy talked as if the clutch was prestige and in perfect brand new condition. Lol, I find it funny that I sold my problems to a friend and bought someone elses problems. It will be fine, I have the time and patience to fix this one up also.

 

You should have known that what goes around comes around. Did your friend know that he's buying your problems too? Not that I'm trying to harp on you. But this always happens.

Your turbo wouldn't do much good if torque is not properly transfered to the drivetrain and wheels.