bill927

I'm driving a 95 5 speedwith 141k. Sometimes it won't start after I leave it for 5 or 10 minutes. Went to the bank today, had trouble. Stopped at the store, same thing. It cranks fine, battery seems to be working as does the starter.

If I give it some gas it usually starts but it won't really do much for a a few seconds, just stumbles. If I give it enough gas to get the revs to 4 or 5k it usually fixes the problem. Tired of it. It used to do it here and there, getting more common now. Plugs are new, air filter is clean, throttle body is clean, no codes. Will the coolant temp sensor do this? Fuel problem? No real modifications. None on the engine anyway.

Any help would be appreciated.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

A hot-start issue for a change... most people complain about cold starts

Could a sticking PCV valve cause this - I can imagine that the valve would be more prone to sticking when hot (the carbon/build up would be sticky). Its easy to replace - and cheap.

bill927

Easy enough. Going to auto zone and I'll pick one up. Cheap quick and easy. I'll let them check the codes while I'm there. No light though. Think their machine will only say knock sensor.

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

if I remember right this is a common problem on 300ZX's as well, and it was caused by coolant temp sensor.

If you want to search on a realy good Z site, twinturbo.net, register a name and search for coolant temp sensor or hot start problems and you'll come up with tons of stuff. I'd search for you but I'm short of time atm.

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

i would also like to know because its been happening all day to me. I went to get a drink during a break came out of the store the car wouldnt start. On my old engine it indeed was the ects. But Thats when it would be cold out. The rpms would go up but then drop down and stall.

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

ects...engine coolant temp sensor

maximus75

iTrader: (5)

Have you recently changed the engine or tranmission? These cars have timing issues when the mating surfaces between the 2 are corroded. Does the car crank normal or does it crank fast then slow? Does it backfire or pop throught the intake when cranking?

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

yes i recently changed the engine same transmission though. No it cranks fine when it wants to. On this engine the rpms dont drop to make it stall but it makes my car idle rough untill it brings the rpms back up. It cranks alot quicker than my other buddys maxima bcecause i got rid of their crappy battery harness and plugged it into an af termarket one. Atleast thats what i think ; )

Frank Fontaine

Once again, so many different answers. I experienced this problem after about a year of the SES lamp being lit, and my resetting it. Contrary to how some people say faulty EVAP doesn't affect the way the motor runs, I found that the car had to crank 5-6 times repeatedly to get it started, only when HOT. Perfectly ok when cold. Once that issue was fixed, car has never done it again.

bill927

OK, so what's the concensus? EVAP (how do I go about fixing this) or is it the coolant temp sensor? I can do either or both. Where should I start and what is cheaper to do? Thanks for the replies!

bill927

Oh, and to answer the question. Original engine and transmission, 141k, I even have the original clutch. No work recently, no engine mods. Thanks again.

Frank Fontaine

I hate to say this, but how do you feel about being rid of your problem and having a normally running car, and maybe parting with $500? The reason I say that is you could spend the next few weeks trying to figure out what's wrong, or, you bring it to the dealer and at 5 pm the car is done and running fine. To be honest, I got the EVAP done for around $400, and that was after wasting about 5 hours under the car trying to do what the forum said. The dealer told me the EVAP and boost sensor fail, you don't clean them like the forum suggests, you replace.

Yes, the dealer is overpriced, but our personal time is worth something and also peace-of-mind. Good luck!

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Well said. Personal time is often under-rated and under-valued. At the same time, some people have a lot of personal time and not a whole lot of money - so each person has to decide for themselves how long they are willing to keep trying to fix a problem (time and money wasted) before they either manage to fix the problem, or end up taking it to a mechanic or dealer.

Sometimes I take on the problem just for the thrill of fixing it myself - the money saved is sometimes the secondary motive. But you are right - when the cost of doing it myself (when the problem/solution is not clear) starts approaching what I could probably have it done for at the dealer - I drive straight to the dealer.