Trimming Bumpstops...
06-03-2005, 06:52 PM
#4
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
You can't trim the new style Nissan front replacement units. If your old ones are in good shape, pull the bumper out of the front boot and trim it.
You have to cut the rear dust cover stem on the Nissan unit to shorten it's bump stop. Sort of distroys the assembly in a way.
The advantage of going with the KYB units is that they are a direct replacement unit that work very well on lowered setups.
You have to cut the rear dust cover stem on the Nissan unit to shorten it's bump stop. Sort of distroys the assembly in a way.
The advantage of going with the KYB units is that they are a direct replacement unit that work very well on lowered setups.
06-03-2005, 11:12 PM
#6
Yeah, I'd splurge for the KYB bumpstops. They are boots and bumpstops in one and allow for more travel than stock. No cutting required.
On a 1996, I'd imagine your old bumpstops are in pretty sad shape by now. Good luck.
On a 1996, I'd imagine your old bumpstops are in pretty sad shape by now. Good luck.
06-04-2005, 09:38 AM
#8
Originally Posted by paultyler_82
does anyone know if any of Energy Suspension's Universal bumpstops will work with our suspension?
Unless you have them already, why bother with the Energy Suspension brand?
06-04-2005, 09:57 AM
#9
where can I get these bumpstops? and for how much? I just got my tokico suspension kit (Illuminas & Tokico springs) in and I dont know what else I need for this install since I never did it before.
06-04-2005, 10:10 AM
#10
Originally Posted by digdug555
where can I get these bumpstops? and for how much? I just got my tokico suspension kit (Illuminas & Tokico springs) in and I dont know what else I need for this install since I never did it before.
I bought mine over a year ago at: www.cattman.com
Brian Catts is known to be a reputable seller of all things maxima, but you might find them a few dollars cheaper somewhere else. Tirerack.com might also carry them. That's the best I can tell you.
06-04-2005, 10:29 AM
#12
If i were you I would DEFINITELY change the upper strut mounts and the bearings when you do the install.
I skipped this and less than a year later I changed out the bearings. then a month later I had to do the upper strut mounts. It's tempting to skip this and save $60 (tirerack is selling KYB mounts for $30 each and mine came with bearins, too) but it will be more work for you in the near future.
Not necessary right now, but worth considering...
I skipped this and less than a year later I changed out the bearings. then a month later I had to do the upper strut mounts. It's tempting to skip this and save $60 (tirerack is selling KYB mounts for $30 each and mine came with bearins, too) but it will be more work for you in the near future.
Not necessary right now, but worth considering...
06-04-2005, 10:33 AM
#13
Are you doing the install yourself? If so, you probably know this, but most autoparts stores will lend you spring compressors, breaker bars, and torque wrenches for free (just leave deposit).
you may need the breaker bar for the strut-to-steering knuck bolts Those bad boys are factory torqued at around 140 lb-ft and were really tough to remove on my car. Also beware of the ABS cable (disconnect it from the strut along with brake cable). Don't let the steering knuck fall when you remove the strut bolts, could damage ABS cable and brake line.
Good luck.
you may need the breaker bar for the strut-to-steering knuck bolts Those bad boys are factory torqued at around 140 lb-ft and were really tough to remove on my car. Also beware of the ABS cable (disconnect it from the strut along with brake cable). Don't let the steering knuck fall when you remove the strut bolts, could damage ABS cable and brake line.
Good luck.
06-04-2005, 04:01 PM
#16
Originally Posted by paultyler_82
Ok so if you want to redo your suspension front and back, you need the struts and springs, the KYB Boots/Bumpstops, and what else, just 2 upper strut mounts/bearings?
You might want to change the rear mounts, too. They are really cheap. Only $5 each. I just did this, so yeah, complete list:
Parts:
Struts
Springs
KYB Boots/Bumpstops
Upper Strut Mounts (front and rear)
Strut bearings (only the front has bearings)
Tools:
-Jack and Jack Stands
-Ratchet Set (1/2" is preferable for more torque)
-Spring compressors
-Pliers (to pull out the metal clips holding the brake line to the strut. Or use a hammer and screwdriver to pop it off.)
-Adjustable wrench (for people with ABS, to take off little screw attaching ABS line to the strut. Hard to get in there with the rachet.)
-Breaker Bar or air-tools (optional, but the strut-to-steering-arm bolts are tough to get off without a long ratchet or a breaker bar for leverage. Borrow from autozone.)
-Workbench and vise (optional, but it may be hard to remove the middle bolt on the strut by hand. The entire shaft "spins" if you just try to turn it with a ratchet. You have to hold the strut to get the bolt to unscrew)
-a second jack or a cinder block - anything to rest the steering knuckle on while you have the strut disconnected. you want to keep it near level so you don't damage your brake line or ABS cable by stretching them under it's weight. It's not that heavy, but heavy enough to stretch your brake line or hurt the ABS cable.
-Torque wrench (optional, but ideally you'll torque everything to factory specs when you are done. Borrow one from autozone or a place like that).
-Work gloves (optional, but it's nice not to cut open your hands when you inevitably slip on the wrench or ratchet...)
Last thing: WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T EVER TAKE OFF THE MIDDLE STRUT BOLT WITHOUT SPRING COMPRESSORS SECURELY ATTACHED!!! MAKE SURE TO POINT AWAY FROM YOU. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO PRESSURE ON THE TOP MOUNT WHEN YOU TAKE OFF THAT BOLT!
Be safe, and good luck. I've gotta get back to work here... I'm wasting way too much time procrastinating...
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7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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