Blaxima911

Hey everyone. I've been hearing a lot of noise coming from my front suspension. It sounds like a creaking/clicking when I'm driving around, and it seems like I can make the noise when I push the nose up and down, or rock it from side to side. I did this with the hood open and the noise is definately coming from the upper strut mounts. Could this be caused by worn mount bearings? Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help.

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

I just changed my strut mounts yesterday! At first I only changed the *strut bearings* and it didn't help at all with the noise from the front end. The mounts did the trick.

Go to Tirerack.com - they are selling KYB upper strut mounts for $30 - That's looks like an average price, BUT I GOT A SURPRISE IN THE PACKAGE, it came with BEARINGS, too! The bearings alone are $20 normally for KYB and $30 at the dealer! So that's $50 worth of parts for only $30!

If I were you I'd change the bearings AND mounts at once and save yourself doing this twice (like I foolishly ended up doing!).

Just my two cents. choice is yours.

Maxima 504

I have to do this. My front strut mounts are pretty bad.. I get a knocking sound when turning the wheel at a stop or moving slowely, and sometimes a knocking I can feel up/down..

quaker

One quick test is to bounce the car up/down while looking at the upper strut mount nut, if it moves around then the strut mount is bad.

$30 for the mounts and bearings is a great deal. I dont know the mileage on your vehicle but if you are doing the work yourself I'd go ahead and replace those items. I think http://carpartsbin.com/ has a strut mounting kit, which includes those parts as well for about $31.

RedlineVQ

is this it? and were they $30 for the pair or each?

RedlineVQ

is this it? and were they $30 for the pair or each?
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...122&perfCode=P

Black Maxima

What does pushing down on the trunk and making the rear of the car bounce up and down (a lot) mean?

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

You should not be able to move it very easily unless your rear struts are blown. It should provide some firm resistance to being pushed on. Try doing this on another car that has good struts and you will see the difference (doesn't need to be a max). People tend to keep their struts way past when they should be replaced. You don't notice how much better the ride is until you put the new (not blown) struts on. I'm not there, so I can't verify that they are blown, but it sounds like it from your description.

If they are original equipment, then I'd be surprised if the rears weren't blown by now! Rears seemed to go faster than the front struts on my car. You'd think it'd be the opposite with all the weight in the front....

Do you notice a lot of movement in the back of the car when you go over speed bumps or undulations in the road? Does it ever sound like the back bottoming out over bumps?

Well, if they are blown, it's a good excuse to upgrade to better suspension (I'm assuming you have the stock suspension?) Maybe some lowering springs with the new struts?

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

That's $30 for EACH. Not for the pair. I just ordered recently for my 1995 (same exact mounts as for your car.) It was great not to hear those noises every time I hit a bump!

Turbo1er

iTrader: (1)

I used to hear a "whoo whoo whoo" from my front (no not the Raider guy ,) is that the noise? After I installed the Illuminas it went away, maybe shocks?

browne

are they selling both strut mount and boot for $30 each or just the strut mount?

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's a confusing page. ITS ONLY THE MOUNT. They are just advertising the rest of KYB's products on the left side. The actual thing you are buying is on the right (the mounts).

When I bought the mounts, they also came with a new strut bearing in each box. That's actually a very good value if you are looking for the mount and bearing together. Why don't they advertise the bearing though? Seems odd...

RedlineVQ

i think i'll order these then because i have horrible noise from the front right strut whenever i hit a pothole. If i have these,the struts and springs do i need anything else?

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

Depends. If your strut bearings are original, I would change those, too. That's the other most common source of suspension issues/noise. The KYB strut mounts from the TireRack seem to come with the bearings anyway (mine did at least).

I wrote this yesterday for a guy who was changing out his suspension. Might be helpful to you, too (cut and pasted):


Parts:
Struts
Springs
KYB Boots/Bumpstops
Upper Strut Mounts (front and rear)
Strut bearings (only the front has bearings)

Tools:
-Jack and Jack Stands
-Ratchet Set (1/2" is preferable for more torque)
-Spring compressors (borrow from autoparts store of your choice)
-Pliers (to pull out the metal clips holding the brake line to the strut. Or use a hammer and screwdriver to pop it off.)
-Adjustable wrench (for people with ABS, to take off little screw attaching ABS line to the strut. Hard to get in there with the rachet.)
-Breaker Bar or air-tools (optional, but the strut-to-steering-arm bolts are tough to get off without a long ratchet or a breaker bar for leverage. Borrow from autozone.)
-Workbench and vise (optional, but it may be hard to remove the middle bolt on the strut by hand. The entire shaft "spins" if you just try to turn it with a ratchet. You have to hold the strut to get the bolt to unscrew)
-a second jack or a cinder block - anything to rest the steering knuckle on while you have the strut disconnected. you want to keep it near level so you don't damage your brake line or ABS cable by stretching them under it's weight. It's not that heavy, but heavy enough to stretch your brake line or hurt the ABS cable.
-Torque wrench (optional, but ideally you'll torque everything to factory specs when you are done. Borrow one from autozone or a place like that).
-Work gloves (optional, but it's nice not to cut open your hands when you inevitably slip on the wrench or ratchet...)

Last thing: WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T EVER TAKE OFF THE MIDDLE STRUT BOLT WITHOUT SPRING COMPRESSORS SECURELY ATTACHED!!! MAKE SURE TO POINT AWAY FROM YOU. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO PRESSURE ON THE TOP MOUNT WHEN YOU TAKE OFF THAT BOLT!

Be safe, and good luck. I've gotta get back to work here... I'm wasting way too much time procrastinating...

RedlineVQ

thanks for the write up. Do the bumpstops/boots come with it or are they seperate? And do i need the rear mounts too?

Thanks,
Robert

Black Maxima

Thanks for the reply! I have no firm resistance when I push on the rear of my car. Does a 2000 GXE have basically the same suspension as my 1996 GXE? Because the 2000 GXE gave some firm resistance compared to my 1996. I showed my dad how my suspension goes up and down. He said they are only bad if the car keeps bouncing after you push on it, which mine doesn't. I have gone over speed bumps with friends in the back seat and I felt it bottom out. Sounds like a sledge hammer is going through my dashboard when I go over a speed bump fast. It comes from the front right side. Seems like a worn bump stop. I have so many noises going down the road, just doesn't feel solid, feels like overall bad suspension. It's making me mad. I have to turn up my music so I don't hear any of this noise. I want to upgrade to some S-Techs and Illuminas.

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

You DEFINITELY have some blown struts. I'm sure your dad is a good guy, but he is not right on this one. If you can easily push the front or back corners of your car down, then your struts have blown (i.e. leaked and lost pressure). I'm not talking about standing on your bumper, but pushing by hand should require hard pressure to push them downward and bounce them.

1) Yes, the 2000 max should give similar resistance when you push down. Even when I still had my stock GLE struts (softest maxima struts) it gave firm resistance.

2) The bumpstop or strut mount might have worn out in part BECAUSE THE STRUTS WERE BLOWN AND BOTTOMING OUT! I wouldn't change the bumpstops without doing the struts, too. Solve the whole problem at once.

If you have the money, I'd replace all the struts. The KYB GR2's are the cheapest option. About $300 for the whole car. You'd also need to spend $60 on some KYB mounts and $70 on some new bumpstops. So we are talking some money here when you add it all up. Even more costly if you have to pay for an install.

Good luck. And let your dad know that struts are just like your brake pads and rotors. They are regular maintenance parts. They only last 2-3 years typically but some people drive around for years with blown struts. Gives a terrible ride and handling. It may also cause uneven tire wear and other issues. You will improve your ride enormously with properly functioning struts and have safer, more responsive handling.

Black Maxima

Thanks for helping me. I did test out a 2000 GXE and it felt a lot harder to push down. It feels a lot more stable on roads/highways.

I will do everything at once, since I don't want to keep installing everything. I will talk to my dad after he helps me put this Y-Pipe and Cat in.

I do have a video of me pushing down on the struts.

Thanks, Aaron

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

If you are doing the work yourself (i.e. you and your dad) I would check out the suspension group deal in the Group Deals forum. I bought struts and springs through an ImportCarParts group deal that has been going on for over a year. The deal is still on. You can order whenever you want at the quoted prices. And the prices INCLUDE SHIPPING. I don't know if your Dad would be up for that, but you really can't beat those prices.

Good luck.

Black Maxima

Yes, my Dad and I would do the installation. I will check the Group Deals and talk to him. All I think about is my suspension while im driving. I know it's in really bad shape.

Thanks again.

Aaron