Starting trouble...
Starting trouble...
Lately my 95 has been having trouble starting...it sounds like it may be the fuel pump, but I am not really sure. It only seems to happen when it has been sitting for a long time or when it has been out in the heat. It sounds like it wants to turn over but it takes a few tries before it does. Any thoughts would be great, thanks...
If you are sure the battery is fine, then slow cranking points to the starter.
Try this: Jump the car (as if your battery is dead) and see if it cranks normally. If it does, then you might have a weak battery.
If jumping the car doesn't change the cranking behavior, you probably have a lazy starter. If the starter is the original starter, then it is likely dead. The design was updated sometime after 95/96. The new ones have more teeth on the reduction gear and crank harder/faster.
Cheers.
Try this: Jump the car (as if your battery is dead) and see if it cranks normally. If it does, then you might have a weak battery.
If jumping the car doesn't change the cranking behavior, you probably have a lazy starter. If the starter is the original starter, then it is likely dead. The design was updated sometime after 95/96. The new ones have more teeth on the reduction gear and crank harder/faster.
Cheers.
I think I have the same problem too. When cranking, it stutters as if it wants to turn over but doesn't. It is not continuous cranking from the starter. I have tried just about everything to no avail. Happens mostly when the engine is warmed up. No freaking codes. Over the past year I have replaced: starter, battery, alternator, ECTS, ign. switch, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, crank pos sensor. Have also cleaned throttle body, reset base idle, checked fuel pressure. Car operates fine otherwise. ARgggh.
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
I think I have the same problem too. When cranking, it stutters as if it wants to turn over but doesn't. It is not continuous cranking from the starter. I have tried just about everything to no avail. Happens mostly when the engine is warmed up. No freaking codes. Over the past year I have replaced: starter, battery, alternator, ECTS, ign. switch, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, crank pos sensor. Have also cleaned throttle body, reset base idle, checked fuel pressure. Car operates fine otherwise. ARgggh.
njmodi: good tip. I feel like it's something electrical making the signal choppy. If I disconnect the crank or cam sensors, the cranking is continuous but once everything is hooked up, about 30% of the time, it'll do the stuttering cranking. Hopefully these relays are cheap. I have very little leads to go on so thanks!
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
njmodi: good tip. I feel like it's something electrical making the signal choppy. If I disconnect the crank or cam sensors, the cranking is continuous but once everything is hooked up, about 30% of the time, it'll do the stuttering cranking. Hopefully these relays are cheap. I have very little leads to go on so thanks!
Just replaced the starter on my 97 SE, it turned over like a dead battery. Got a new battery...didn't solve the problem, it started as before. The starter died in the parking lot of the battery store. Replaced the starter and I was back on the road.
The starter going bad mimics the same signs as a weak battery.
Good luck.
The starter going bad mimics the same signs as a weak battery.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by TheFink
Lately my 95 has been having trouble starting...it sounds like it may be the fuel pump, but I am not really sure. It only seems to happen when it has been sitting for a long time or when it has been out in the heat. It sounds like it wants to turn over but it takes a few tries before it does. Any thoughts would be great, thanks...
I noticed that if I sparyed some carb cleaner in the intake manifold it would fire right up! This made me think that it was not getting any fuel pressure during start up and the carb cleaner was acting like insant fuel.
SO I bought one of those fuel pressure gauges that connects after the fuel filter to test the pressure. Normally at the ON position before you crank, the pump should quickly generate 43 psi... I had 0 psi!!! Cranking the car multiple time eventaully builds up enough pressure to start the car. Once the car is started it should have 34 psi... mine was about 12 below that at first, but reving it a little brings it up... This explains the shaky idle once I manage to start the car.
Since the fuel pump is brand new I am thinking it is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump control module, or the dropping resistor. Since the FPCM and the drop resistor are detectable lines for CEL codes, I doubt it is one of those...
Originally Posted by i30ds
I have the EXACT problem. No codes what so ever. I have replaced the battery, starter, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, reset base idle, and cleaned the TB and IACV, nothing solved the problem.
I noticed that if I sparyed some carb cleaner in the intake manifold it would fire right up! This made me think that it was not getting any fuel pressure during start up and the carb cleaner was acting like insant fuel.
SO I bought one of those fuel pressure gauges that connects after the fuel filter to test the pressure. Normally at the ON position before you crank, the pump should quickly generate 43 psi... I had 0 psi!!! Cranking the car multiple time eventaully builds up enough pressure to start the car. Once the car is started it should have 34 psi... mine was about 12 below that at first, but reving it a little brings it up... This explains the shaky idle once I manage to start the car.
Since the fuel pump is brand new I am thinking it is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump control module, or the dropping resistor. Since the FPCM and the drop resistor are detectable lines for CEL codes, I doubt it is one of those...
I noticed that if I sparyed some carb cleaner in the intake manifold it would fire right up! This made me think that it was not getting any fuel pressure during start up and the carb cleaner was acting like insant fuel.
SO I bought one of those fuel pressure gauges that connects after the fuel filter to test the pressure. Normally at the ON position before you crank, the pump should quickly generate 43 psi... I had 0 psi!!! Cranking the car multiple time eventaully builds up enough pressure to start the car. Once the car is started it should have 34 psi... mine was about 12 below that at first, but reving it a little brings it up... This explains the shaky idle once I manage to start the car.
Since the fuel pump is brand new I am thinking it is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump control module, or the dropping resistor. Since the FPCM and the drop resistor are detectable lines for CEL codes, I doubt it is one of those...
my car doesnt even crank over. u turn the key and it doesnt even click like it has a bad battery. but when it does start, sounds like a solid strong turn over, not like a weak turn over like a dying battery would. is this a sign of a dead starter?
Originally Posted by tsmithr1
my car doesnt even crank over. u turn the key and it doesnt even click like it has a bad battery. but when it does start, sounds like a solid strong turn over, not like a weak turn over like a dying battery would. is this a sign of a dead starter?
Originally Posted by njmodi
i30ds - could your problem be leaky fuel injectors?
I was just reading this post and thought to my self that my '98 has trouble starting up after sitting for a bit. I've done the normal tuneup stuff, but putting a gage between the fuel filter and the engine sounds like a clever idea. IF I run into similar problems, then I might try that. Meanwhile, any idea how long a starter lasts? I had a new alternator about 1 1/2 years ago with the recall but it's still the orig starter... I have 96k and baby it! Thanks!
Originally Posted by i30ds
I have the EXACT problem. No codes what so ever...Cranking the car multiple time eventaully builds up enough pressure to start the car...Since the FPCM and the drop resistor are detectable lines for CEL codes, I doubt it is one of those...
I have no issues once the cars been started...though the earlier I step on the gas and get it started, the more it seems to want to die. I have to rev it a bit for a few seconds to keep it from wanting to stall.
Basically seems like it's not getting fuel on it's own until the air pressure from the intake manifold builds up enough to get gas in there...
Is this for mine and I30ds's problems? I wouldn't think so.
But I think I do need a new starter. Sometimes the engine won't engage and it sounds like it's grinding....maybe it never fully gets into the teeth of the flywheel and the grinding is it hitting the fly?
But I think I do need a new starter. Sometimes the engine won't engage and it sounds like it's grinding....maybe it never fully gets into the teeth of the flywheel and the grinding is it hitting the fly?
Mmnnn...I have a friend with a 95 or 96 I30 that has the exact same symptom. In the mornings or in the garage, ie cool, it fires right up, never an issue. After sitting in the sun all day baking at work, it does this with a "hissing" sound, he says. It doesn't attempt to turn over. Then he waits a minute, and usually on the second try it turns over strong and fires right up.
I'm thinking relay or something electrical isn't closing the circuit to the starter. I've heard relays make a buzzzzzzzing sound, but no hissing.
Do you hear anything when you turn the key to START and it doesn't?
I'm thinking relay or something electrical isn't closing the circuit to the starter. I've heard relays make a buzzzzzzzing sound, but no hissing.
Do you hear anything when you turn the key to START and it doesn't?
Originally Posted by tsmithr1
my car doesnt even crank over. u turn the key and it doesnt even click like it has a bad battery. but when it does start, sounds like a solid strong turn over, not like a weak turn over like a dying battery would. is this a sign of a dead starter?
Here is what I'm going to follow:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....gnition+switch
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....gnition+switch
Originally Posted by tsmithr1
i hear like a light buzz when i turn the key. where is the igition switch located?
i have somewhat of the similar problem only mines does it when it is cold not hot.when its hot it starts right up when cold it only starts when i put my foot on the accelerator, then it will start to catch dont know whats up with that. My evap control vent was bad, and i had replaced that it had helped but the problem is still there. No engine light on, dont know if its the batt or starter
Found out what the problem was... Since the fuel pump was the very first thing I replaced, I assumed that it could be ruled out... Big mistake.
I went on and checked the fuel pump relay, fuel pump control module, dropping resistor, and the fuel pressure regulator. All of them checked out...
Since I used a NON NISSAN fuel pump, I returned it and got a nissan one and dropped it in... BOOM!!... It fired right up! I havent been able to get it to do that with out sprying carb cleaner in the IM since all this started more than a month ago!!! It has been about a week and the thing fires like a champ every single time regardless of weather the engine is hot or cold.
THe real thing that p!sses me off though is that with in 2 days of this problem poping up, I replaced the fuel pump, and because of this third party crap, I spent the next few weeks chasing around all sorts of crap and testing sensors. If I would have used a real nissan fuel pump I would of solved this thing right off the bat.
Well, I guess if there is a lesson to be learned, it is that you should always use nissan parts. Normally I adhear to this principle and so far everthing that I have done repair wise has been with nissan parts except for the starter motor and then this crappy fuel pump (and the only reason I used it was because I did not want to wait several days for nissan to ship me one at whole sale).
I went on and checked the fuel pump relay, fuel pump control module, dropping resistor, and the fuel pressure regulator. All of them checked out...
Since I used a NON NISSAN fuel pump, I returned it and got a nissan one and dropped it in... BOOM!!... It fired right up! I havent been able to get it to do that with out sprying carb cleaner in the IM since all this started more than a month ago!!! It has been about a week and the thing fires like a champ every single time regardless of weather the engine is hot or cold.
THe real thing that p!sses me off though is that with in 2 days of this problem poping up, I replaced the fuel pump, and because of this third party crap, I spent the next few weeks chasing around all sorts of crap and testing sensors. If I would have used a real nissan fuel pump I would of solved this thing right off the bat.
Well, I guess if there is a lesson to be learned, it is that you should always use nissan parts. Normally I adhear to this principle and so far everthing that I have done repair wise has been with nissan parts except for the starter motor and then this crappy fuel pump (and the only reason I used it was because I did not want to wait several days for nissan to ship me one at whole sale).
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