Crankshaft Positioning Sensor
Crankshaft Positioning Sensor
Has anyone had any experience with the code (0407). I am getting this in conjuction with 0304 (knock sensor) . Gas mileage is normal, starting might be a little bit hard, but nothing I would have noticed.
I had the CEL go on a year ago, (before I could access this site) and the dealership said it was the rear o2 sensor. I replaced that and checked the codes a couple of days ago and get the above codes.
Any experience and thoughts concerning this code would be appreciated.
I had the CEL go on a year ago, (before I could access this site) and the dealership said it was the rear o2 sensor. I replaced that and checked the codes a couple of days ago and get the above codes.
Any experience and thoughts concerning this code would be appreciated.
holy crap, that is the exact same problem i am having same codes and everything, but i installed an udp. wow, that is such a coincidence.
but yea, ANY help would be greatly apprciated. I'm just happy to hear I am not the only one with this problem... sorry you got it too though...
but yea, ANY help would be greatly apprciated. I'm just happy to hear I am not the only one with this problem... sorry you got it too though...
if your crankshapft position sensor was failing, your car wouldn't even start. probably needs to be cleaned. THere are 2 of them, one on the bell housing of the tranny and one, you guessed it, under the pulley.
procedure??
Maybe wishfull thinking, but is there any way to just spray brake cleaner in the general direction, and have it actually clean up? or is this a remove and clean with rags and solvent. More detailed advice would be appreciated.Thanks.
....no that problaby woulndt be a good idea. pull the snesor and clean it, ones to the right of the oil filter. 2-10mm bolts. take off the harness and pull the sensor and clean it up. the other is under the car. follow the o2 sensor wire and itll be attached to the harness on the tranny i think.
Originally Posted by chenzarino
if your crankshapft position sensor was failing, your car wouldn't even start. probably needs to be cleaned. THere are 2 of them, one on the bell housing of the tranny and one, you guessed it, under the pulley.
umm, not true, cuz mine is failing and my car starts perfectly fine, however it does have an effect on RPM smoothness...
covered in metal powder
Just removed mine ( the one by the oil filter) the sensor spot was covered in fine metal (ferrous) particles, like one would find on an magnetic oil plug. Wiped it off put it together and reset the ecu. Lets see if that was all the fix it needed.
You may have hard starts every now and again, but it WILL start... I repalced mine alst year (CPS)
It's $60 from www.pinnaclenissan.com, make sure you get the right one.
waroohead ... you sure it was Fe?
It's $60 from www.pinnaclenissan.com, make sure you get the right one.
waroohead ... you sure it was Fe?
I guess
It was magnetically stuck to the tip of the sensor that faces the flywheel. I brushed it off with a paper towel, and a soft cotton rag. It felt like metalic particles, and it surely was stuck magnetically.
Now that I have someone elses interest, where is the other one bolted crankshaft positioning sensor?
Now that I have someone elses interest, where is the other one bolted crankshaft positioning sensor?
I have the factory manual
Poor as it is the factory manual refers to two different crankshaft positioning sensors. One sensor has two bolts and is by the oil pan and reads off the flywheel. That one the factory book refers to as a CKPS (POS) (DTC:P1336) the other sensor aooears from the crappy pictures to have one bolt holding it on ot (WHERE)?????. It is also call a CKPS POS but the next part is different (DTC: P0335).
The second sensor is imaterial because I can't find it.
Now a little more info. After cleaning the two bolt sensor. I went on a test drive and when through about 7 start cycles, and so far no CEL. We will see with another day of normal usuage. although it would usually show a CEL after a reset within about two or three start cycles.
But if anyone knows where the one bolt sensor is I sure would clean it also.
I swear I have read every sticky at least three times.
The second sensor is imaterial because I can't find it.
Now a little more info. After cleaning the two bolt sensor. I went on a test drive and when through about 7 start cycles, and so far no CEL. We will see with another day of normal usuage. although it would usually show a CEL after a reset within about two or three start cycles.
But if anyone knows where the one bolt sensor is I sure would clean it also.
I swear I have read every sticky at least three times.
I found it!!!
I think I found it. By the center frame piece underneath a plastic guard( with about 4 screws to remove it )sitting all by itself on the bell houseing. with one bolt to remove it. I decided not to remove it untill I get the CEL light on again and the right code (0407 I think it was) .
Still no CEL and I am sick of looking at the underside of a Maxima, so no more fooling with the crankshaft sensor POS.
And does anyone else think it is strange that Nissan chooses to use the letters POS for one of their parts. I always thought POS stood for piece of sh**.
Still no CEL and I am sick of looking at the underside of a Maxima, so no more fooling with the crankshaft sensor POS.
And does anyone else think it is strange that Nissan chooses to use the letters POS for one of their parts. I always thought POS stood for piece of sh**.
CEL on off on off on off
Finally the CEL came on then went off then on etc. I am going to put dielectric grease in both conections, and hope that it is a connection problem rather than a bad sensor. It seemed to go on or off after bumps. And yes I really do have the connection on untill they click. It is a good thing that the CEL problem doesn't seem to make it run poorly.
Originally Posted by chenzarino
These sensors are just magnets, hard to see how they go bad.
two ways to destroy a magnet. heat it or beat it. yeah, i guess the engine block is never hot. nor is there any turbulance.
Update
Well I cleaned the metalic particals off the sensor and now the car won't start. So I ran down the battery, and put it on the charger overnight and it was still charging high after 10 hours, which leads me to believe that the battery is bad, and maybe that is why it won't start, i.e. not cranking fast enough.
I seem to be going backwards, put a knock sensor in put a rear o2 sensor in, pout plugs, cleaned the butterfly, checked the air filter, changed the fuel filter, and it went from hard starting to no starting. Anyone got any ideas? Next I will order the crank sensor. I will also push it out and try to jump start it with some help from starting fluid.
I seem to be going backwards, put a knock sensor in put a rear o2 sensor in, pout plugs, cleaned the butterfly, checked the air filter, changed the fuel filter, and it went from hard starting to no starting. Anyone got any ideas? Next I will order the crank sensor. I will also push it out and try to jump start it with some help from starting fluid.
I did reset
and the codes came back. I then replaced the knock sensor, (with a combo 1/4 inch socket swivel it was pretty easy). I also put some dielectric grease in the connections after it wouldn't start. Just got off the Pinnacle Nissan site and order the crank sensor. Next week I will replace it, (a ten minute job).
Any other ideas? I have not checked codes since the knock sensor was put in or ofter cleaning the crank sensor. Don't think it would matter because the engine has not started since. That actually should be a clue, pull sensor clean put back in car won't start, HMMM?
Any other ideas? I have not checked codes since the knock sensor was put in or ofter cleaning the crank sensor. Don't think it would matter because the engine has not started since. That actually should be a clue, pull sensor clean put back in car won't start, HMMM?
only one in the catalog
Only one shows up in the catalog. I know there are two but I only messed with one and the Pinnicle catalog only shows the one. Hell at this point I'd order both, along with o2 sensors even though I never got that code (front o2), but I will be somewhat methodical in this.
That is it
That is the one I have been messing with. So I guess I have ordered the right part, and hopefully it will start.
I do think my battery is weak. After a full overnight charge it reads12.5 volts.
I think thats weak.
I do think my battery is weak. After a full overnight charge it reads12.5 volts.
I think thats weak.
Pulled battery
After a charge of about 24 hours the battery cranked for about 5 seconds, and that was it. I think I have a shot battery, and will take it in for testing. No cells to check it is a sealed battery. Glad I have another vehicle, (although it is a truck and gets 12-15 MPG around town),
Next on the list of things to buy is a battery load tested. Available on EBAY for $10-15. I hate pulling the battery and hauling it to town.
Next on the list of things to buy is a battery load tested. Available on EBAY for $10-15. I hate pulling the battery and hauling it to town.
ok well i been dealing with this problem now for two days......after a long and hard battle explanation at the link below
http://southfloridamaximas.com/forum...read.php?t=660
i have gotten the code 0407........and if anyone else has any ideas please let me know........
come to conclude my mechanic says its the fault of the wrong sparkplugs that led to this and i am writing up a letter to the performance shop that sold them to me and they will pay for all my damages and fees.......so i will be changing the crankshaft sensor tomorrow and post up on what happens......the car starts barely but it just bogs out and sputters....so yeah
http://southfloridamaximas.com/forum...read.php?t=660
i have gotten the code 0407........and if anyone else has any ideas please let me know........
come to conclude my mechanic says its the fault of the wrong sparkplugs that led to this and i am writing up a letter to the performance shop that sold them to me and they will pay for all my damages and fees.......so i will be changing the crankshaft sensor tomorrow and post up on what happens......the car starts barely but it just bogs out and sputters....so yeah
spark plugs?????
I can't imagine the plugs (almost any plug ) would have a big effect. My problem ended up bing multiple, starter, battery, knock sensor, fuel filter & crankshaft sensor. When I could get mine to start it ran ok, but now with all the various sensors replaced, (and an o2 sensor) it definetly runs faster and smoother with a small increase in milage. So my advice and best guess is replace all the coded sensor problems and then see what happens.
wellt his morning i pulled the ngk spark plug that i had put in last night from the same place from the rear center spark plug area and this morning i pulled it out and the little rode that extends and teh electrode are once again smashed.....................my piston and everythign else are pretty much screwed up and my timing along with the chain and the teeth............
i talked to a nissan tech or mech i mean and well due to my car running extremely rich the piston jumped smasshed the iridum plug causing my whole timing to go off and everything....all this b/c of the wrong spark plug.......i am currently getting an attorney and any other outcome i am not please.......a ruined maxima over this....welll thanks guys for everything...
as for the ngk i remvoed today it had green gunk on it.....and metal shavings from what was the old spark plug in it......
i talked to a nissan tech or mech i mean and well due to my car running extremely rich the piston jumped smasshed the iridum plug causing my whole timing to go off and everything....all this b/c of the wrong spark plug.......i am currently getting an attorney and any other outcome i am not please.......a ruined maxima over this....welll thanks guys for everything...
as for the ngk i remvoed today it had green gunk on it.....and metal shavings from what was the old spark plug in it......
start from the beginning
Start this story from the beginng clearly. If the wrong plug was put it the only thing that could happen (if it was too long) would be piston interferance. I could be wrong but I doubt any plug even one too long would hit the piston, but on that point I am not sure. As far as screwing up the timing and the camshaft chain. I doubt it. Hope someone else chimes in. If not start this as a new thread with an interesting title and see what happens.
well two nissan techs said the cause was of the spark plug being to long and the wrong one and it fried my piston completely causing it to break and y head gasket is gone.....as well so thats it for the vq30 in my car
my dad and i are seaking attorney and taking legal matter
thanks for everythign guys.......
who knows maybe if i get moeny vq35 going in
my dad and i are seaking attorney and taking legal matter
thanks for everythign guys.......
who knows maybe if i get moeny vq35 going in
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it is the reference
