over-size tires...
#1
I just had Eibachs & Konis installed, and I LOVE them, but...
I've noticed that the Toyo Proxes really suck. I want to get better tires, maybe Comp TA's or Yoko AVS.
Now, if I want even better grip without upgrading to 8" wide rims, I was thinking of getting wider tires to go on my stock 5-spoke 16" rims.
Any comments about putting 225/50/16's on the stock 99 SEL rims instead of 215/55/16's???
Thanks for your input,
Justin
I've noticed that the Toyo Proxes really suck. I want to get better tires, maybe Comp TA's or Yoko AVS.
Now, if I want even better grip without upgrading to 8" wide rims, I was thinking of getting wider tires to go on my stock 5-spoke 16" rims.
Any comments about putting 225/50/16's on the stock 99 SEL rims instead of 215/55/16's???
Thanks for your input,
Justin
#2
Oversize tires and wheel width
Hello:
Well; depending on the wheel width and tire size, bigger is not always better when it comes to tires...
If you have a 7.5" wide wheel, then a size 215 or 225 should be fine. If your wheel is only 7" wide, then don't go any more than a 215. If your wheels are only 6.5" wide (which I think is the OEM size), then upgrade your wheels...
Here is my reasoning:
The less curve you have in the sidewall, the higher ridigity you will have (every thing else being equal). Sidewalls bulged out heavily from the edge of the wheel will flex and compress more. The worst case is when the inner diameter end of the sidewall (the side which seals against the rims) is forced farther inward than the outer diameter end of the sidewall (the side that touches the ground)... Ideally, if you were to extend a plane parallel to the outer edge of the wheel, the top and bottom of the sidewall should intersect.
My worst case example was driving a Pontiac Grand AM GT rental car... It had size 225 tires (Some Goodyear V-rated model) but I know the wheels were less than 7" wide.) The sidewalls were bulged out as described above and I couldn't keep the car going straight on the highway.. It always wanted to change direction even though I wasn't turning the wheel... There was so much dead-mushiness in the steering response too... Now a size 205 of the same model tire would have resulted in much better feel and handling...
All tires are measured from the widest points on the sidewall and not the tread width. Z rated tires have more tread width for a given size as compared to an H-rated tire... This is because Z rated tires have straighter sidewalls... For this reason, you should size your wheels according to the tire size... which is typically necessary when going from all season tires to higher performance tires.
When tires are underinflated, the outer edges wear out but center doesn't wear out as quickly since there is less contact pressure there... Think of the above worst cases of sidewall compression and wheel width sizing as a constant lack of traction from the center of the tread and overloading of the outer edge...
Hope this helps out...
Well; depending on the wheel width and tire size, bigger is not always better when it comes to tires...
If you have a 7.5" wide wheel, then a size 215 or 225 should be fine. If your wheel is only 7" wide, then don't go any more than a 215. If your wheels are only 6.5" wide (which I think is the OEM size), then upgrade your wheels...
Here is my reasoning:
The less curve you have in the sidewall, the higher ridigity you will have (every thing else being equal). Sidewalls bulged out heavily from the edge of the wheel will flex and compress more. The worst case is when the inner diameter end of the sidewall (the side which seals against the rims) is forced farther inward than the outer diameter end of the sidewall (the side that touches the ground)... Ideally, if you were to extend a plane parallel to the outer edge of the wheel, the top and bottom of the sidewall should intersect.
My worst case example was driving a Pontiac Grand AM GT rental car... It had size 225 tires (Some Goodyear V-rated model) but I know the wheels were less than 7" wide.) The sidewalls were bulged out as described above and I couldn't keep the car going straight on the highway.. It always wanted to change direction even though I wasn't turning the wheel... There was so much dead-mushiness in the steering response too... Now a size 205 of the same model tire would have resulted in much better feel and handling...
All tires are measured from the widest points on the sidewall and not the tread width. Z rated tires have more tread width for a given size as compared to an H-rated tire... This is because Z rated tires have straighter sidewalls... For this reason, you should size your wheels according to the tire size... which is typically necessary when going from all season tires to higher performance tires.
When tires are underinflated, the outer edges wear out but center doesn't wear out as quickly since there is less contact pressure there... Think of the above worst cases of sidewall compression and wheel width sizing as a constant lack of traction from the center of the tread and overloading of the outer edge...
Hope this helps out...
#3
Wow, tire tech school!
thanks Chris,
I guess then the way to proceed is to find out the wheel width of my factory '99 16's. I certainly don't want any mushiness with the new springs, because they have given the handling a *MUCH* more direct feel that I can appreciate on any surface at any speed. I don't want to lose that. Thanks again for your help.
So does anyone know the width of thee 16" alloys on the 4th gen?
Justin
I guess then the way to proceed is to find out the wheel width of my factory '99 16's. I certainly don't want any mushiness with the new springs, because they have given the handling a *MUCH* more direct feel that I can appreciate on any surface at any speed. I don't want to lose that. Thanks again for your help.
So does anyone know the width of thee 16" alloys on the 4th gen?
Justin
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have just put 225/50/16 Dunlops sport 5000s on my stock 97 SE rims. They fit great, no bowing in the center at all. I talked to both dunlop and BFG and asked if the 225s would fit on 6 1/2 inch rims without bowing and they both said no problem. I am very pleased with the 5000s they stick very well and seem to ride a little better. I would have loved to put on new rims but I can't afford it right now. Make sure your new shoes get balanced well or you will have some shimmy in the steering wheel. I had to go back 3 times but they finally got it right.
#6
alright, 1 for, 1 against
So we've got mitster who says he's doing fine with 225's on a 6.5" rim (thanks seven). In the opposite corner, we've got Chris and Physics arguing against such tires. We need a tiebreaker.
Has anyone else had experience with this kind of configuration?
Thanks,
Justin
Has anyone else had experience with this kind of configuration?
Thanks,
Justin
#9
So lets see
Some pictures! I too am thinking of puting 225/50's on my 16x6.5 wheels. I would like to see some pics installed. Anyone got any the could email to me? One guy already sent me one picture that had them only on the front. It didn't look to bad, but it was kinda hard to see from the pictures. Another guy was getting them installed and was to send me some pics, and I never got any.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MaxedOut
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
4
06-20-2002 07:02 AM