Yeah I was hoping to find something broken, but I had the crossmember off the car and everything so I did it anyway. Umm...Side mounts? I swapped two different coils around a while ago with no change. I have cleaned the whole upper plenum also. I'll drive it after the 48 hours it says to wait.

 

Yeah I thought Motor Mounts too. That is almost a given!

 

its your mounts, if its your rear one, thats the most important, if that one is bad it can twist the side ones. i have a really really bad rear one, and it f'd up the pass. side one. also, laucking wouldnt be as bad as dropping the clutch. the engine has time to transition through the play the engine mount is giving you. if you drop it, there is very little transition time meaning it hits hard. same idea as a loose control arm, it gives wind up time. the best way to hold it off, is work harder at shifting nice, and also learn to slowly move the gas pedal, giving the egine as much time as possible to transition. i learned stick with bad mounts, and now i rarely notice it anymore cus i've learned to predict/control it. it also helps the jerkyness off 1st gear engine breaking by a lot if you get good like i have at it

 

yea, u have to baby it and ease it on and off. it sucks because even in my buddys 96 honda civic i cant realy feel the slop that i have
also so much more fun driving someone elses car, hehe

is 60a a good hardness? im going to order some soon but dont know how much to get..
for 27 bux u get only a pound of this stuff? that doesnt seem like enough to do this with. also 25cu.
i should only buy one right?? help

 

well, the slop is the engine mounts, has nothing to do with the car itself. if his mounts are bad, im guessing the "slop" that you arent feeling as much is because the egine has less torque, and it weighs less.
oh and if you say your engine doesnt move much look at this:
http://www.motorvate.ca/video/video_...dyno_front.wmv
now do you think your engine doesnt move much? especially since there isnt anything wrong with this one?

 

I ordered 1 pound of this, it comes in a box with 2 cans. You shake up the small can and pour it into the big can and stir atleast 2 min. 1 order is plenty for the 2 motor mounts. Wear gloves this stuff is nasty. Use brake cleaner to get it off your hands if you need to. I hope 60A is good because that's what I got. I'll be test driving the new mounts tonight after 8pm central time.

 

More write ups on this subject-

http://www.turbomirage.com/mountinserts.htm

http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

And another thread about this-

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=393964

 

I am only filling the existing mounts not cutting them out or anything. If you cut them out then I don't think 1 order would be enough to fill both mounts.

Also I did not seperate the mounts from the crossmember, I just dropped the crossmember with the mounts attached, using the scissor jack in the trunk with a 2x4 to hoist the motor and tranny till the bolt in the front motor mount felt as loose as it could get then I pulled the bolt out. Hopefully reassembly will be easy. I will let you know how it goes.

 

thanks tons for the info and having enough mellons to try
wish i could be there to check this out but write ups should help alot
one thing i worry about is taking these things off, and then never bieng able to get them back on! ^^

 

I know their is a thread in the stickies about this but since this thread has been started I might as well stick with it till the end. Here is last piece of the puzzle-

The mounts and crossmember went back on as one piece with very little trouble. It was tricky getting the crossmember to stay in place while I put the first bolts in. I used an extra jackstand to hold up the rear while using about an 8 inch long 2x4 at the other end while I put the crossmember to chassie bolts in the rear first then put the front crossmember to chassie bolts in 3/4 of the way. Then I went back to the rear bolts and screwed them in till they were just about tight and then I was able to slide the motor mount bolt in and tighten that finger tight(Their is no nut to worry about for this one). Next I torqued the rear crossmember bolts to 90 ft lbs then I torqued the front crossmember bolts to 90 ft lbs. then I tightened the rear mount bolt to 85 ft lbs- this one took longer for some reason. Now the only thing left was the front mount bolt, I had to adjust the scissor jack under the motor/trans either up or down(I can't remember) to line up the bolt with the bracket that is attatched to the motor so that the hole would line up with the mount hole. When raising and lowering the scissor jack you will see the bolt hole going up and down, when you're close just slide that bolt through and put the nut on and torque to 85 ft lbs.

Tonight I will take the car off of the jacks and stands and put all the splash gaurds back on and drive it. I can't wait to see what this does!

 

Yikes, my auto Maxima does this too...hope its not too expensive to fix. I'll have my mechanic look into it. Is it harming anything if I don't get it fixed right away? I always assumed it was just the way the car was built. My 98 Maxima did that too.

crazy97, are you coming to the Minneapolis meet on the 21st?

 

Hopefully this will solve my problem, but if it doesn't maybe I'll just push this thing off a cliff! jk

About the meet, I didn't really even know there was one coming up. I don't know, my car is nothing special - no mods or anything. Does just anyone go to these meets?

 

Don't worry, I haven't done much to my car either!

 

Test drive is complete and the jerking is about 70% gone. It's much more controlable now. I can definitely feel a difference. If I go easy on it, it won't jerk. If I punch the gas, I can feel it jerk still, but when I let off the gas there is absolutly no jerking. Vibrations are a little more noticeable when engaging in 1st gear and occasionally at idle, so if your car vibrates at all, don't do this. When cruising down the road nothing is noticeable. All in all I'm glad I did this.