Stuck rear brake caliper/piston?
#1
Stuck rear brake caliper/piston?
Is there an easier way to push back the piston on the back brakes. I have the tool and all but on my 5th gen it literally took my brother and I about 20 mins of pushing and turning to get it back enough AND...
on my dads 4 gen ('98) the damn thing wouldnt even buge! There has to be an easier way, shops only take like 30 min to do both. What are they using? Any ideas? Is there something else I can do?
on my dads 4 gen ('98) the damn thing wouldnt even buge! There has to be an easier way, shops only take like 30 min to do both. What are they using? Any ideas? Is there something else I can do?
#2
You need to replace those calipers. Those pistons are seized and cannot operate properly (even if you do manage to get them retracted).
www.partsamerica.com - reman calipers for 80 bucks a side.
www.partsamerica.com - reman calipers for 80 bucks a side.
#4
Originally Posted by njmodi
You need to replace those calipers. Those pistons are seized and cannot operate properly (even if you do manage to get them retracted).
www.partsamerica.com - reman calipers for 80 bucks a side.
www.partsamerica.com - reman calipers for 80 bucks a side.
So are you saying that the rear brakes have not been working for however long the piston has been seized? I know most of the braking is done by the fronts but wouln't I notice non-functional rear brakes?
#6
Wouldn't braking with the e-brake alone be a good test for the rears performance. Read this thread on my rear brake head-ache.
Rear Brakes
Njmodi helped me alot on that thread. What finally helped was opening the brake bleeder screw w/ the Master cylinder reservoir cap tight and while having the bleeder screw connected to a bleeder kit(Which is just a see-through plastic tube connected to a cup).
Rear Brakes
Njmodi helped me alot on that thread. What finally helped was opening the brake bleeder screw w/ the Master cylinder reservoir cap tight and while having the bleeder screw connected to a bleeder kit(Which is just a see-through plastic tube connected to a cup).
#7
I had the same exactly problem when I tried to change my pads. The driver side rear would not free up, I used every tool I could to try and get it back. I took to local mecanic and they were able to unseized it. Cost me 50 bucks but I was able to save the calibur. Car breaks fine and ebrake works great.
#10
I have a problem similar to this. When I use my hand brake, and leave it for a long period of time, and when I get back into it to drive, it's like the rear brakes won't release. This also happens in the winter. I don't know if it's the brake cables or the calipers, I just need some help ASAP!
#11
I'm the only one that I know of who has ever admitted to improperly using the brake tool. I first thought both my rears were seized too. But it didn't make sense--e brake worked, and pads were worn evenly and not down to the bone.
Park on an incline--does the e brake hold, and when you release it, the car immediately rolls back?
If you have that cheap ratchet type of tool, get rid of it. Buy or rent the one which spreads like a giant C-clamp. It pushes the piston in like butter.
Park on an incline--does the e brake hold, and when you release it, the car immediately rolls back?
If you have that cheap ratchet type of tool, get rid of it. Buy or rent the one which spreads like a giant C-clamp. It pushes the piston in like butter.
#15
I have a similar problem my passenger side rear brake pad looks like it has hardly been used.
Then I go look at the driver side rear pads and the darn thing looks like it is all gone. There is a noise that comes and goes from that area so I know that brake caliper is sticking. Now Im going to probably try to replace it or get a shop to un seize it.
Then I go look at the driver side rear pads and the darn thing looks like it is all gone. There is a noise that comes and goes from that area so I know that brake caliper is sticking. Now Im going to probably try to replace it or get a shop to un seize it.
#16
Ok, found the TSB. Goto your dealership with this info to get the parts you need.
Jae
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN: MFG Bulletin Number: NTB99031
MFG Bulletin Date: 19990501
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS
Details: EXHIBITING REAR BRAKE GROAN / HUMMING NOISE AFTER RELEASING BRAKE PEDAL. *TT
Internal use: 19990521
MFG Bulletin Date: 19990501
Component: SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS
Details: EXHIBITING REAR BRAKE GROAN / HUMMING NOISE AFTER RELEASING BRAKE PEDAL. *TT
Internal use: 19990521
#17
I just replaces my rear calipers, like a week ago because i noticed that my brake pedal was low. when i took them off......Man those darn calipers where RUSTY and hell...
so you know what change both sides and be happy
so you know what change both sides and be happy
#18
Originally Posted by ThurzNite
Ok, found the TSB. Goto your dealership with this info to get the parts you need.
Jae
Jae
#19
Originally Posted by GO_VOLS!
Would this still work if the car's out of warranty? My wife's '99 has already had 1 caliper replaced when it was under warranty for this very reason. Now, it seems to be doing it again, but the car's out of warranty.
The car's warranty wont cover it, but the replacement part warranty would. Only thing that has a limitation, 12 months/12,000 miles from date of install. It might cover labor when you had a dealer install it. I'm not clear on it, but I did have a fuel tank sending unit replaced free of charge when my car was over 40k, and I think it was because of the above.
When you have a factory warranty, 3/36 or whatever, then that will cover any replacement parts for the full duration.
#20
Parts was about $25 for that TSB. I'm looking at the TSB right now. You're gonna replace the parking brake cables and rear pad retainers. Pretty easy job, it'll take less than an hour if you're experienced.
Jae
Jae
#21
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=267096
Recall = free with or w/o warranty
TSB = free only with warranty (bumper to bumper, not powertrain)
Recall = free with or w/o warranty
TSB = free only with warranty (bumper to bumper, not powertrain)
#22
Is there an easier way to push back the piston on the back brakes. I have the tool and all but on my 5th gen it literally took my brother and I about 20 mins of pushing and turning to get it back enough AND...
on my dads 4 gen ('98) the damn thing wouldnt even buge! There has to be an easier way, shops only take like 30 min to do both. What are they using? Any ideas? Is there something else I can do?
on my dads 4 gen ('98) the damn thing wouldnt even buge! There has to be an easier way, shops only take like 30 min to do both. What are they using? Any ideas? Is there something else I can do?
You should be using a C-clamp holding the brake pad to the caliper to push the piston back and there shouldn't be a problem with it. If the piston is not working properly you are in a pretty dangerous situation, especially if you try to stop suddenly. You definitely need to replace the calipers if the pistons are not moving properly. I would use the c-clamp first and put the caliper back on and test it to see if it stays tight to the brake pad. If your back brakes are not working properly after that then the calipers need to be replaced!
#24
yo...im having trouble with my rear driver side brakes.
I dont know if the caliper is seized or if the guide pins are frozen. Is there anyway to tell w/o taking off the assembly?
Here are the symptoms:
I got 5MT. The e-brake holds but isnt holding as strong as it should. With the ebrake off, and i go for a drive, I can smell brakes from the rear driver side tire when i park the car after the drive, so i know brake pad is rubbing.
I believe the ebrake is holding for the pass side but not the driver side. OR, the ebrake is not holding as strongly for the driver side.
So i think i have a PARTIALLY stuck caliper ( meaning its stuck to a certain point, but not completely open) or frozen guide pin. Is there any way to tell which needs to be replaced with out looking at it first?
I dont know if the caliper is seized or if the guide pins are frozen. Is there anyway to tell w/o taking off the assembly?
Here are the symptoms:
I got 5MT. The e-brake holds but isnt holding as strong as it should. With the ebrake off, and i go for a drive, I can smell brakes from the rear driver side tire when i park the car after the drive, so i know brake pad is rubbing.
I believe the ebrake is holding for the pass side but not the driver side. OR, the ebrake is not holding as strongly for the driver side.
So i think i have a PARTIALLY stuck caliper ( meaning its stuck to a certain point, but not completely open) or frozen guide pin. Is there any way to tell which needs to be replaced with out looking at it first?
#25
yo...im having trouble with my rear driver side brakes.
I dont know if the caliper is seized or if the guide pins are frozen. Is there anyway to tell w/o taking off the assembly?
Here are the symptoms:
I got 5MT. The e-brake holds but isnt holding as strong as it should. With the ebrake off, and i go for a drive, I can smell brakes from the rear driver side tire when i park the car after the drive, so i know brake pad is rubbing.
I believe the ebrake is holding for the pass side but not the driver side. OR, the ebrake is not holding as strongly for the driver side.
So i think i have a PARTIALLY stuck caliper ( meaning its stuck to a certain point, but not completely open) or frozen guide pin. Is there any way to tell which needs to be replaced with out looking at it first?
I dont know if the caliper is seized or if the guide pins are frozen. Is there anyway to tell w/o taking off the assembly?
Here are the symptoms:
I got 5MT. The e-brake holds but isnt holding as strong as it should. With the ebrake off, and i go for a drive, I can smell brakes from the rear driver side tire when i park the car after the drive, so i know brake pad is rubbing.
I believe the ebrake is holding for the pass side but not the driver side. OR, the ebrake is not holding as strongly for the driver side.
So i think i have a PARTIALLY stuck caliper ( meaning its stuck to a certain point, but not completely open) or frozen guide pin. Is there any way to tell which needs to be replaced with out looking at it first?
#26
I'm dissapointed seeing this question from you. Jack it up and spin both rears, alternatively you can touch the wheels and it'll be the hotter one. Then set the parking brake and make sure they both lock up. Remove the caliper and check the pins first. Try spinning the piston on the caliper next. Could also be a cable seizing up, leave the parking brake off for a few days and see if the calipers free up.
Lol @ facepalm
Yea I know man. i was trying to avoid jacking it up.
Alright, only one way to find out whats wrong...time to sweat!
#28
You should be using a C-clamp holding the brake pad to the caliper to push the piston back and there shouldn't be a problem with it. If the piston is not working properly you are in a pretty dangerous situation, especially if you try to stop suddenly. You definitely need to replace the calipers if the pistons are not moving properly. I would use the c-clamp first and put the caliper back on and test it to see if it stays tight to the brake pad. If your back brakes are not working properly after that then the calipers need to be replaced!
#29
^^^ this... Rear calipers turn in to move the piston...you cannot use a c clamp to press them in...and if you try...you will more than likely damage the caliper needing to replace it anyhow... Is there a reason why some people say to replace both one shot?? Why cantyou just replace the bad one?? Just a question... Igot a bad pass side caliper... Ebrake wont engage at all drivers side is down to metal and grinding like a beotch... I already got rotors and pads...just sorting options regarding my calipers...
#31
^^^ this... Rear calipers turn in to move the piston...you cannot use a c clamp to press them in...and if you try...you will more than likely damage the caliper needing to replace it anyhow... Is there a reason why some people say to replace both one shot?? Why cantyou just replace the bad one?? Just a question... Igot a bad pass side caliper... Ebrake wont engage at all drivers side is down to metal and grinding like a beotch... I already got rotors and pads...just sorting options regarding my calipers...
I might jus replace both calipers on both side. If ima do this, Ima do it once, right, and be done with it.
#32
it is a complete myth that you need to do both calipers at the same time. theyre not like tires bros, you can do them as you need.
also you do not need any special tool for our break caliper pistons! if you cant turn them with a pair of needle nose plyers(each tip in a hole on the piston), then they arent working properly! its simple guys!
also you do not need any special tool for our break caliper pistons! if you cant turn them with a pair of needle nose plyers(each tip in a hole on the piston), then they arent working properly! its simple guys!
Last edited by GGENIUS; 07-17-2012 at 03:49 PM.
#34
Yes, check the emergency brake. You can have someone pull it while you watch the action of the cable on the springs even with the car on the ground.
Years ago I ran into the problem where the parking brake locked up the rear brakes.
This guy has a picture of exactly what the problem was and why it happened:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/48
Basically like he says - "When some mechanics put your Maxima on a hoist, sometimes the "lift arms" of the hoist bend the parking brake cable bracket."
I noticed that on my fathers car - which was one year newer - they routed the cable more to the inside where lifts would not cause the same problem.
I pulled it off here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm
Years ago I ran into the problem where the parking brake locked up the rear brakes.
This guy has a picture of exactly what the problem was and why it happened:
http://www.motorvate.ca/node/48
Basically like he says - "When some mechanics put your Maxima on a hoist, sometimes the "lift arms" of the hoist bend the parking brake cable bracket."
I noticed that on my fathers car - which was one year newer - they routed the cable more to the inside where lifts would not cause the same problem.
I pulled it off here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm
#37
FYI...I replaced my rear caliper and my e-brake still did not work. Then I did pads/rotors and tried to turn the piston back...it would not turn back...just spun, so obviously i got a bad caliper. Replaced that "new" caliper with another one and my e-brake works great now.
Moral of the story, if your e-brake still does not work after you replace your caliper and BEFORE you buy a new cable, check to ensure that your "new" caliper is working as it should.
#38
it is a complete myth that you need to do both calipers at the same time. theyre not like tires bros, you can do them as you need.
also you do not need any special tool for our break caliper pistons! if you cant turn them with a pair of needle nose plyers(each tip in a hole on the piston), then they arent working properly! its simple guys!
also you do not need any special tool for our break caliper pistons! if you cant turn them with a pair of needle nose plyers(each tip in a hole on the piston), then they arent working properly! its simple guys!
Also, be careful when you're twisting the piston, that the rubber seal is free (and stationary) and not getting twisted as well....
#39
my rear passenger side caliper is frozen? Piston rusty. Does not turn. But when brake pedal is pumped it protrudes. Now I cant make it retract. How to disconnect the parking cable and the brake fluid line to instal a replacement? the piston & kit (O-ring, gasket, boot) costs $20. how easy to repair the caliper for a newbee instead of buying a reconditioed one for $60-$140?
Wonder why piston is plated metal instead of stainless steel or brass?
Wonder why piston is plated metal instead of stainless steel or brass?
#40
my rear passenger side caliper is frozen? Piston rusty. Does not turn. But when brake pedal is pumped it protrudes. Now I cant make it retract. How to disconnect the parking cable and the brake fluid line to instal a replacement? the piston & kit (O-ring, gasket, boot) costs $20. how easy to repair the caliper for a newbee instead of buying a reconditioed one for $60-$140?
Wonder why piston is plated metal instead of stainless steel or brass?
Wonder why piston is plated metal instead of stainless steel or brass?
The E-brake has a clip you have to pull up and then the cable comes off. The brake line just has a bolt your remove. makes sure you replace both copper washers. youtube has a couple videos if you search.