So i had a missfire. Replaced injector it went away but a few hours later white smoke started coming out of the exaust and a really strong gas smell started. I started takin stuff apart today and looked down inside and saw this blue liquid. (Probably coolant) where can it be coming from and is it causing the miss to come back or the strong gas smell?




And in the top pic you can see the new injector for cylinder one. Got me so excited when i thought i fixed it but the problem came back and worse

 

Do you have any blue liquid anywhere on your car? Is your coolant blue? if not then winshield wiper fluid would be the only other blue liquid.

 

Coolant its a blueish green but more green but maybe when mixed with the gas it turned it a little more blueish

 

Does it feel like water or real slippery like oil? Sounds like the injector to me...

 

after changing your injectors, did you torque all the intake bolts to spec. and follow the correct pattern? improper re-installation could cause the intake to warp and allow coolant into intake.

 

There is not any way for coolant to get to the backside of your intake valve, unless you have a cracked head, which I seriously doubt.

Most likely you tore the small o-ring at the injector tip and the fluid is gasoline leaking past the o-ring. That is also why you smell gas.

Pull out the new injector, replace the o-ring and use some silicone grease on the o-ring when reinserting the injector.

 

there is a way for coolant to get to the backside of the intake valve. It can shoot up the combustion chamber. It would be seein in the intake valve more I guess because the exhaust valve burns the stuff off. Which might be why he has white smoke.

I cant really see the pictures too well. You said it was coolant-like fluid. That can only mean you need a new head gasket or your head is cracked.

Pull the head. Change the gasket. Look and see if anything is cracked or there are pinholes. Hopefully its just a bad head gasket. A weekend job and you should be good. Just make sure you use assembly lube when you replace the camshaft and timing chain. While you're in there change your water pump.

 

Let's get realistic.

For coolant to get to the backside of an intake valve, it would have to travel against the flow of air entering the cylinder. (Edit: I suppose if the head was cracked in the region of the intake valve it could leak onto the backside of the valve. But cracked VQ30 heads are very rare. I've never heard of any, actually, and he didn't say he did anything to result in a cracked head.)

He changed an injector and now he smells gas and the back side of the intake valve is wet. He didn't say which valve, but I'll bet you a donut it is the valve that is fed by the same injector he changed.

This all points to a leaking o-ring.

At least replace that first before you start pulling heads off.

 

Stephen is correct - the OP replaced the injector for Cylinder #1 - which is the one that can be seen in the photo right behind the lower intake manifold...

 

I just checked that injector since all it was is 2 screws to pull it out and would u guess it. That o ring wasnt completely broke but was frayed pretty bad deffinetly need of replacement. Now could that have been the cause of my missfire like flooding that sparkplug? and it still leaves me with my starting the car problem how i have to pump the gas to get it to turn over.

 

Where's my donut?


Krispy Kreme .....

 

If that liquid is still in there, why not just remove as much of it as possible with a syringe, then put it all back together and smoke out the neighborhood till it clears up?

 

I have a boiled egg right here- will that do?

 

Did you replace the o-ring and reassemble? if that o-ring was leaking you were probably flooding the cylinder through the intake valve.. which could lead to all sorts of driveability issues...

 

not yet need to go pick up the o-ring from the dealer autozone wanted 12 bux for a kit the dealer just wanted 2 bux. Now these other problems will they go away? or am i in a long line of needing to fix things? i can understand that if it was running real rich the o2 would have taken gas away and caused the other cylinders to perform poorly which is probably why it was stalling real easy but i still dont get the starting issue

 

That cylinder was most likely getting flooded - causing the hard starts.. fix the o-ring and see how things fall into place after that.

 

gas is supposed to be atomized by the injector then fired by the plug. If it's flooded with liquid, it ain't gonna run....

 

So i replaced the o-ring O MY GOD was there smoke lol but it went away after 5 min or so. The engine is running really good feels like i got 50 more horse. I still have the miss fire in the exaust. the pup pup pup maybe timing related?

 

I wonder if you did any damage to the internals with all that fuel leaking in - fuel is not compressible...

 

Glad the injector problem is fixed.

"the misfire in exhaust" could be a temp thing.Maybe give it a day or so and it disapear.

 

do a compression test now

 

change plugs; and go....

 

So after driving it a little the smoke came back but doesnt smell like gas. I still have the starting issue with needing to pump the gas to get it to start.(This started after replacing the injector) It still is missfiring and is now worse then when i first changed the O-Ring and is running rough and rpm drops are pretty bad. The smoke smells like exaust which is better than the overwelming gas smell. See what ur opinions are on these problems

 

if that was fuel leaking...make sure you change your oil asap. it could have leaked past your rings and into the crankcase

 

Ok ill try that was going to do it soon anyways any other ideas for the problems though?

 

if it got int he oil it wouldnt cause rough idle, but is good to get out of there as a preventative precaution

 

I figured that wasnt causing a ride but also havent replaced it since the seals so figured its good to do but the starting issue puzzles me. Threw an ignition signal circuit code but that hasnt come back

 

I still think plugs should be looked at, plus your coil packs. It sounds like it's not getting enuff spark to IGNITE the fuel. Yeah, I know you said the exhaust doesn't smell like gas anymore...Does it catch at all then shut off BEFORE you have to pump the gas?

 

Nope doesnt catch a little bit then as i pump the gas it starts to catch and i rev the engine and it stays on. Im throwing a 0150 code now o2 sensor circuit malfunction and the program i got says o2 sensor 1 bank 2 is a .03 voltage reading where o2 sensors 1 and 2 bank 1 are around .25-.35. Still gettin my cylinder 1 missfire code. Ive replaced the coil for cyl 1 and the plugs for all of um.

 

All of this is a little confusing. I originally thought it was a coolant leak. It still might be but it might also be an oil leak. Was the plug oil fouled when you took it out of the #1 bank?

I'm beginning to lean towards a bad ECU. The reason for this is you have a code thrown, you did everything you could to remedy it, and the code is still there.

A bad O2 sensor will also make your engine run rich. But not so rich that it floods your engine.

How many miles on your car? Luckilly you live in NJ. Lots of yards in the NYC area that will have an ECU for your car. If any of your friends have a 95 Maxima GXE with 5 speed, you can try their ECU and see how the car runs.

This almost sounds like a bad distributor. Only our cars dont have distributors. Spark distribution is controlled by computers.

 

I agree with this too. Do a compression test. Its easy and fun.

 

Well the gas richness was from a bad o-ring. I replaced that and the gas smell went away. The missfire, the starting issue, and the incredible amounts of smoke are whats mind boggling me. Im left to do the compression test but thats kind of something i hope it isnt lol

*edit* the thing that confuses me the most is that issue i have with starting the car. It seems completely seperate from my missfiring problems almost like something i messed up in the installation of my new injector.

 

Just found this f'ing thing. Looks like a vacume leak to me i tried getting it to stay in but it just wont stay in there. (thats the pcv hose going into the rear valve cover)



any ideas on how to get it to stay sealed?

 

PCV valve... unbolt the metal tube the short rubber hose is connected to, seat the pcv valve using a screwdriver or some needle-nose pliers....and reconnect the metal tube brackets.

 

Looks like you have a valve cover leak too - is that RTV between the head and the VC or did you use a rubber gasket (as you are supposed to)?

 

as the source of the trouble is found.

 

Well i gotta take the whole thing back apart i was taking that hose off and realized the little plug seal type thing that plugs into the top of the cover where the hose connects to is broken and it just dropped down inside the valve when i was tryin to take it off so looks like that needs to be replaced. The leak is from before just replaced those seals with the genuine nissan rubber seals so that isnt leaking anymore. but fun fun fun 4th time to take it all apart :-)

 

You'll have to find out where to get a new grommet for the valve cover... It's going to be a dealer-only item ... and if you dealers are like the ones around here, no one will have that in stock...

You are getting pretty good at getting the plenum off Any tips on what you do to get those coolant hoses on/off (at the rear of the plenum?) - like what tools you use, etc. I can do everything easily except for those two hoses.

 

I'd a never thought a bad PCV valve would make a car act that way...Still....please keep us informed. I'm real interested to see how this turns out...

 

The hoses in the back are un necessary to take off for doing most things involving the manifold today i had to take those hoses off since i needed to take the valve cover off in order to get the rubber peice that dropped down in there. What i do i disconect everything so the manifold is loose and then pull it forward a bit, after i pull it forward it makes that hose in the back visable and use needle nose plyers to pinch the clamp and pull it off. You only have to disconect the bottom side of the hose in the rear i leave the top side on (the side thats connected to the manifold). The nice thing about not taking those hoses off is you dont leak any coolant. The cylinder 1 injector is easy enough to get to with just pulling the manifold up about 5 inches. Just a tip if any1 has to do work on cylinder 1 save alot of time and having to clean up coolant :-)

*edit* and the part is ordered from the dealership 8 bux which isnt bad ill post pix of the stupid thing thats ripped in half. Friday its supposed to come in so looks like thats what i got to do friday everything is apart except the valve cover i bolted that back on.