Guys i have a problem i read instruction on how to change a knock sensor but when i went to change it my engine looks completely different there is a bunch of crap in the way of the sensor. my buddy cam to my house he also has a 99 maxima his is right there u can even see his knock sensor. myn i cant even see someone help.

 

What kind of crap is in the way of the knock sensor? I take it that both cars are 99s so what you say makes no sense unless you put the crap there.

 

99 Cali-spec has a swirl valve (among other things) that are in the way...
The 99 Fed-spec does not - which would explain the differences.

 

Here you go:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=315851

 

So maybe you have a Cali spec. What makes you think you need a KS? How many miles are on the car? It seems strange for a KS to be needed on a 99 unless its got over say 100K on it already.

 

my 99 cali has 103 k on it

 

From the spate of KS posts lately, it seems that the Cali specs lose theirs a lot faster than the Fed specs

 

man this sux its gonna be such a pain in the *** im about to call up som mechanics to find out how much they will charge....

 

here are some pictures

 

Guys, long story short any one need a new knock sensor.............

 

It's a b!tch doing the ks on a 99 cali spec, no matter how you look at it. Just read over the thread njmodi posted up there. Or click on the link in my sig.

 

How much you looking to get? Shipping to 10013.

Thanks.

 

I just replaced my KS today. Such a pain. I just want to add additional pointers and hopefully they will be useful to other people.
1. Do not use 3/8" flex joint 12mm. I thought it's bigger and would be sturdier. Not. It kept slipping off. I ended up going back to Sears to get the 1/4" flex joint 12mm.

2. I broke the 1/4" 12mm the first try, but it loosened the bolt. I used the broken 12mm (joint still attached) to loosen the bolt completely. I then took the magnet out of a magnetic pick up tool and inserted the magnet into the 12mm socket end. I then used the magnetized flex joint socket to loosen the bolt completely and take out the bolt without the bolt dropping off.

3. To put back to bolt/KS is a pain because the bolt would slide off the KS. I cut strips of duct tape and taped them around the part of the bolt where there is no thread. I taped enough so that when I inserted the bolt back into the KS, the bolt wouldn't slide off but would still rotate. I am not sure how heat would affect the duct tape/KS combo, oh well. Using magnetic tool to position the bolt/KS combo didn't really work because there wasn't a good way to detach the magnet from bolt/KS, which ended up getting dragged off position by the magnet.

4. After I hand threaded the bolt back in, I used a variety of combo flex joint 12mm socket or u-joint and 12mm socket, etc. Nothing really worked. The problem was that I didn't know if I have really tightened the bolt or not. I figured out that I can put my hand back into the manifold cavity (very difficult), and use another hand to slip in a short 12mm box end wrench to the hand inside the cavity. I then used the wrench to tighten the KS.
5. To insert your hand into the manifold cavity, it's easier if you wear a thin glove. It's more slippery than just regular skin.

Good luck! I hope I will never need to replace another one of this.

 

replaces mine on my 99 cali spec last sat. it was actually prob one of the easiest things ive done on my car. took about 20 mins to change the sensor itself, plus about two hours running around to get swivels to remove the bolts in the swirl valve and and to find a replacement bolt for the one i lost when i was trying to put it back in. i actually think i mighta had a harder time changine the fuel filter