Ok, I work on this elderly man's Maximas (a maxima enthusiast) whom I met at the dealer when they were trying to rip him off on an $82 corner light, I told him I had a spare and offered to install it for $30, which I did and so far have replaced a taillight and brake pads on his '90 SE. His wife's '95 SE needs cv joint boots.

What is entailed on cv joint boot replacement? I am assuming I have to remove/disconnect the following:
-brakes
-ball joint connecting to the control arm
-strut connecting to the spindle
-cotter pin holding the axle in the wheel bearing

am I missing any steps and what tool do I need to tighten the straps for the cv joint boot?

 

Go to www.motorvate.ca, scroll down a bit and click on CV boot replacement and the procedure is detailed there. It may also be in the stickies but I didn't look.

You should also encourage the owner of the 95 Maxima to buy a Haynes manual. They are fairly inexpensive.

 

No need to remove the ball joint on the control arm. If you follow the Motorvate web site, it is possible to remove the axle once the steering knuckle is detached from the strut.

If you use the Nissan boot kit ($30 or so mail order) you don't need any special tool to tighten the boot strap. The Nissan kit comes with everything you need, retaining rings, grease, bands, etc. The hub nut takes 36mm socket, and can be VERY tough to remove.

 

Ok, picked up the 36mm socket at Sears yesterday, and have my car pakced with my toolbox and 1/2" and 3/8" socket sets. Going to work on that '95 after work.

Any idea of how long each side should take me? 1 hr? 2 hrs?

I've never done CV joints before, but plenty of suspension/brake work.

 

Considering that this was my first big job, the driver's side was easy, I did it in a about an hour. The passenger side was a *****. It took me about 2 hours to do. There are three bolts that are tough to get to and remove. Get a haynes if you don't have one and read up and you'll see what I mean.

 

You are also going need a huge breaker bar to go along with that 36mm socket, that one bolt can be a bi+ch to take off. So putting a strong pipe to extend you leverage can be a lot of help.

 

I found the driver side extremely difficult to do and the passenger side easy to do. It took me about 1 1/2 hours for each side which didn't include dropping the tranny fluid and refilling. I'm not sure if the tranny fluid thing is necessary or not but that's what people recommended me to do.

 

You don't necessaryly have to drain the tranny fluid, if you are manual yes, if its an auto no. When i changed my axles i didn't have to remove any tranny fluid, but there is a chance that fluid might comeout of the bellhousing. All you need to do if that happens, after you changed your axles just top it off.

 

Looks like this job is going on hold. Can't locate a 36mm deep socket anywhere. Sears, Advance Auto, Harbor Freight tools...NOPE, don't have it. Anyone know where I can get this socket? Worse comes to worse I will have to order this off the net somewhere.

 

alright the boot is totaly not worth replacing... just replace the whole shaft its no only easier its a lot less work... the shaft you can get at autozone for 60$

 

You can rent the socket at Autozone or almost any autoparts store that lets you rent tools.

 

Pepboys has the 36mm socket 1/2" drive for about $12. It is one of those impact socket, but works fine.

 

How do you know if you have a locking differential? I need to replace my axle, but I have to specify locking or not when I order it. Do Maximas even have locking differentials?

Also, I know this is a stupid question, but I can't find an answer in Haynes, and I can't search this site. Where are the correct jack points? I know that the spots right behind the wheels where the two slots are fit the jack in the trunk. But where do you jack the car if you are going to put it on stands? Or where shoudl you put the stands if you jack from the slotted area? Thanks.

 

Consumer Auto Parts (CAP) has 36mm deep impact sockets too for $9.99. I know Autozone carries them too. Everyone is right that you'll need a gigantic breaker bar to get those axle nuts off they're on there with 175lbs-215lbs of torque. Luckily I have air tools so I can get both off in 5 seconds :-)

I'm picking up a full set of axle sockets prob within a week or so so if the project is still on hold by then I'll sell you my old socket for $5 plus shipping (it's less than a month old and as been used 3 times). Only if you don't find it anywhere though because with shipping it'll prob be as much as a new one. Just tryin to help though, goodluck

 

Do I seriously need a slide hammer to seperate the cv joint? I wanted to leave the other half on the car while I seperated it since the cj joint has a hairline crack in it and didn't want to mess with other parts.

I did find a 36mm deep socket at Pep Boys last night, thanks UncleMax98

 

You can seperate it just by knocking it out with a large rubber mallet or hammer

 

It sounds like you are relatively handy, so you should not have a hard time. The CV joints are not technically hard to do, they are just pretty tight. So you have to take your time and be careful. I rented an electrical impact hammer, and it really makes the job of removing the 36mm nut a piece of cake. Good luck.
Steve