blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

Ok, so I've had this problem ever since the tranny got swapped. It was throwing a code for the CPS REF, and the Park/neutral position switch... I replaced both, and the codes went away, and the starting stayed the same.
It takes anywhere inbetween 10-30 seconds to start sometimes...
Here are the syptoms:
It turns over, then tries to catch a little, hiccups, sometimes backfires, and continues to do that untill it finally catches and starts up.... Sometimes it doesnt even do it, but 95% of the time it does this...
There are no codes being thrown... I have no idea what to do.. Any input appriciated.
Thanks guys!
Mike

Armelius

How is your fuel pump and fuel filter? I just changed my filter and it took me about an hour, hoses are on tight.

PAREDLINE

Sounds like you get no 'start signal'.

Go to the stickies. There's a TSB on this problem.

In a nutshell. When your car is starting cold and sometimes when the engine is warm, a signal is sent to the ECM via the ignition switch that the engine is starting. It's called "START SIGNAL"

There's a fuse under the dash labelled START SIGNAL. Start there.

If you get 12 volts to the fuse when the car is cranking then it works ok. Check the fuse. If the fuse is good but no 12V present then you need a new ignition switch.

Do this and post again. I can guide you from there.

killerVQ30DE

While hes getting no code.. his symptoms also mirror a bad Engine Coolant Temp Sensor

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Could be a bad ignition switch. Easy to replace, but often overlooked.


BTW: my symptom was long cranking and when fired it idled kind of weak.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

yeah, it does that too once it starts... its a weak idle for a few seconds, till I give the throttle a good push...
I see the fuse that you're talking about, i'll go do that right now and report back.
Thanks guys!!!!
I love maxima.org sometimes

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

12.34......Fuse is good..
It didn't even crank when the fuse was out, that is what it's supposed to do right?
But when I turned the key to start, it got 12.34 volts...................................
:x

PAREDLINE

it should still crank if the fuse is out

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

Well it didnt... It didnt crank at all.... So what does that mean?
Hmmm...

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

bump... anyone know???

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

.......???

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

Im in the EXACT same boat.

Ive changed my plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned IACV, TB, and it's STILL busted.

It's gotta be the ignition switch, or my clutch pedal adjustment. Or...the p0405

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

How did the problem start for you???

Danielson2881

I'm experiencing some of those same symptoms too. When the car is cold it takes a good 30secs or so to start, but when the car is warm, it starts fine. I've replaced the ECTS, IAC, plugs, cleaned the TB, but still no go.

This weekend I pulled off the upper intake and there was a lot of black buildup, but nothing shocking. I did find however that the egr tube that goes to the back of the intake was completely blocked. It took a screwdriver and some taps from a hammer to break most of it lose. So...Is there anyway that a block somewhere in the egr system can cause hard starting?

goldtooth

iTrader: (56)

Does it still start hard after you unclogged it ? If not then theres your answer.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I'm thinking that because it doesnt turn over when the starting signal fuse is out that that might have something to do with the problem.
Either way, i'm going to just take it to Nissan tomorrow.. i've been dealing with this for weeks, and its not good on my starter or my engine, and I just need to get it fixed.....
I'll report back with the solution

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

Changed my clutch, bolted everything back up...started fine. Then the next day it did it. I changed the starter that same day, and it still did it

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I took it to Nissan and for $75.00 bucks they told me that it was the starter, so I went to advanced, picked up a rebuilt one, it starts a heck of alot faster, but the problem is still here... I'm gonna go back there, tell them to give me my $75.00, and have their mechanic actually do a diagnostic on the car, and tell me whats wrong. That's just ghey..........

Bijan- So you changed your clutch, and it started fine afterward. The next day, you cranked it, it gave you these symptoms... so you changed the starter? And the problems are still there...
Just makin sure I read it correctly...

I hate this. I really do.

Frank Fontaine

I can't see how my former problem could be related to yours, but I had mucho trouble starting when I had the EVAP problems. Following the instructions on the forum led me nowhere. Finally I paid the dealership and the car has run fine since. It would not start when warm on the first try, period. had to let it sit. Just thought I'd offer the info as some of the suggestions are pointing you towards fuel issues.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Man, this sounds exactly like the symptoms Ptatohed has on his 96 Automatic GLE max. After years of us trying everything in the book, bringing it to 2 or 3 professional mechanics first, then 2 Nissan dealerships in desperation thinking that they might "know the car better than anyone", and throwing a boatload of money at it, it still isn't fixed. Nissan wouldn't look at it with a supercharger on it, because they were convinced it was supercharger related, so we took it off (and installed it on his 99 max he bought since he gave up on the 96) and put it 100% back to Na and then brought it to Nissan. He went through the same crap as some of you guys. Nissan installed a new starter and the problem went away for two weeks even though we've installed a new starter and had similiar results (They were convinced that an Auotzone starter was inferior to a genuine Nissan starter and that was the problem)..... Then, when we tell them the starter isn't the answer, they finally dive it and check it out. They cleaned the bell housing and "indexed the drive wheel" for $800. Once again, the problem went away for two weeks only, and now the car is crappy again. The problem is, Nissan said and I quote, "We are not guaranteeing that we can fix your car for $800, but our tech believies he knows what the problem is and wants to give it a shot" After much thinking, Ptatohed authorized the work hoping it was indeed the bell housing, because, after we thought back about the whole experience, we realized that he problem started after a transmission shop rebuilt and made his tranny bulletproof years ago.

In short, I believe it has something to do with the the tranny swap. You're barking up the wrong tree with everything else. Hope that helps....

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I definitely believe that.
Theres a ground wire on the driver side of the transmission, to the right of the starter (if your standing on the driver side) It could be possible that thats not getting a good ground or something.
Other than that, I have no clue... I owe money on this car, and I aint gonna spend hundreds of dollars to get this **** fixed.. I know its a simple solution, I know it... im tired of spending money on this ****, and getting nowhere...wtf
wtf wtf wtf wtf wtf wtf...
back out to the garage I go to do some more ****ing lookin around

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

^^^^^^^^Now that you mention it, Nissan said they inspected the ground wire you just mentioned on Ptatohed's 96 too. I would definately check that out on your car.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

Ok, the ground wire looks ok, but im gonna redue it, it looks a little sketchy, like it might not get a good contact...
Also, theres a holy right next to the driverside tranny mount that looks like something is supposed to bolt into it...
i'm gonna keep poking around, I know something is just sitting waiting to be fixed... easily....
my cell number is 919-880-6610, Bijan, or anyone, if you wanna call me, and help me out/whatever I dunno, just gimme a ring..
im gonna find it.. I know it

old_G22

iTrader: (1)

I had similar problem couple months ago,hard time starting the car, it would crank but not start,turn key back and forth 3 or 4 times before it started ,or just waited 20-30 seconds for the car to start.replace starter same issue,but then replace ignitions switch that fixed the problem. Now starts like a brand new car. Paid $65 for the switch at dealer

Daily Interlude

iTrader: (1)

I'm having the same problems too! Exact same. I haven't thrown as much money at it yet though! I've seen this topic come and go quite frequently but there's seeming no answer!

Where's this Engine Coolant Temp Sensor at?

I'm going to check that Engine Start Fuse right now...

matty

iTrader: (54)

Did you ever try replacing the Ignition switch ?? If the solder points are messed up jsut a bit on the ignition switch, then it will do some freaky things.

For $25 at nissan, I would change it out just to see. There are two screws that hold it in, and one plug...takes 10 minutes

-matt

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

Well, same boat again. See......when I finished my clutch, and it started fine...etc. The GROUND wire that youre talking about was the absolute 1st thing I checked. Sure enough...it was a little bit loose. I tightened it, it didnt do any good.

So....about a week later I replaced the whole ground wire w/ 2 guage wire....and guess what.............................still nothing.

IT SEEMED TO HELP.........but not entirely fix it. IT's a lot easier to start...yet the usual 'Morning' crank up takes about 10 seconds. Once the car is warmed up...it usually only takes 2 tries in less than 5-6 seconds.

My RPM guage USED to jump all the way to 2k....but now its down to about 1000.

F8cking Maximas..........

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

Eh? Where's it at exactly? Youre not talking about what the key slides in are you?

matty

iTrader: (54)

NO its after the key on the other side of the steering wheel than the ket....it does all the work in starting the car..with Age and Heat those tend to get messed up and send wrong signals..

-matt

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

So take off the steering wheel backing cover plastic....and I'll see it on the left?

matty

iTrader: (54)

Yes its held on by two screws...dont take it off till you purchase one so you know what your takin off...the plug runs down the steerring column towards the engine and plugs into a plug..

-matt

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

So it's not a PITA to follow the wire to the sensor plug? Are the screws like the fuel injector screws? (easy to strip...ha)

Thanks for the info....Ima pick one up tomorrow fo sho

old_G22

iTrader: (1)

well heres the sticky
How to Change Your Ignition Switch http://forums.maxima.org/showthread...ignition+switch

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

......I read the stickies 3 yrs ago, wasnt there

old_G22

iTrader: (1)

my bad
How to change your ignition switch
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....gnition+switch

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

sweet...
Yeah, I just got back from getting new wires, and some grounding clips to reground that point.. but i'm thinking that i'll check te ignition switch now....
If this doesn't fix it, im screwed, because I put a down payment on a SC, and I won't have money to fix the starting issue because I gotta pay for the SC....
BTW- My RPM's jump when it's cranking too..... is that a common sign that the ignition switch is going bad?????? please say yes
Bijan, report back when you get that installed, i'm gonna take off the cover and take a look at it right now without messing with it, and i'm going to go to Nissan tomorrow and purchase it with the $75.00 refund they're going to give me after I give them HELL..
fooking nissan service reps

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

I'm in the same boat. I've replace almost everything mentioned above, including the ignition switch. It still happens 30-40% of the time. Other times it is still fine. The only thing I haven't looked into is the clutch switch. I'm deflated from the problem though so am puttin it on the back burner. Nothing is more embarrassing though then to start the car like that while others are around--starts up like a POS!!!

High Altitude

So have many of you changed the CPS due to these starting problems? Just wondering if I should try that next.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Usually the only problem I saw with the ignition switch is when you turn the key you get no reaction from the car at all..just a clicking by the Fuse box

But Im not saying thats the only sympton of a bad ignition switch...

The screws come out really easy...Dont worry about the intallation, it took me about 5 minutes

-matt

Daily Interlude

iTrader: (1)

OK, I just tested my "Start Signal" fuse. It shows normal voltage, but only when I have the key turned half way. If I turn the key all the way to where the engine turns over, the voltage goes away. Seems that it is an ignition problem...