Rear Brake Caliper Problem, quick answers appreciated.
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Rear Brake Caliper Problem, quick answers appreciated.
I was coming back from grabbing some coffee today, when I noticed a weird smell (like buring plastic). Suddenly I noticed some smoke through my rear view window. I ran home right away to see if I could notice anything, but the smoking had disappeared.
I was doing a walk around of the car when I noticed the heat coming from the rear, driver's side wheel well. That's where the smoke had come from, the plastic smell was still lingering. My rims were HOT. I couldn't even attempt to touch the caliper or the rotor. Caliper seizure was my guess. So I took the wheel off and dismantled the brake.
What I saw was, around the piston, there was some rubber sticking out around it, all bunched up. Figuring this stopped the piston from retracting, hense the seizure and the intense friction heat.
My question is, is there a way to stuff the rubber back around the piston, or am I out of luck and need to replace the caliper?
Thanks in advance guys.
I was doing a walk around of the car when I noticed the heat coming from the rear, driver's side wheel well. That's where the smoke had come from, the plastic smell was still lingering. My rims were HOT. I couldn't even attempt to touch the caliper or the rotor. Caliper seizure was my guess. So I took the wheel off and dismantled the brake.
What I saw was, around the piston, there was some rubber sticking out around it, all bunched up. Figuring this stopped the piston from retracting, hense the seizure and the intense friction heat.
My question is, is there a way to stuff the rubber back around the piston, or am I out of luck and need to replace the caliper?
Thanks in advance guys.
You could try to rebuild the caliper, but it would be best to replace the caliper. You can buy a replacement caliper for 80 bucks from www.partsamerica.com.
To rebuild the caliper, you'll need to buy a rebuild kit (that includes the new piston boot and other soft parts).
To rebuild the caliper, you'll need to buy a rebuild kit (that includes the new piston boot and other soft parts).
Also, make sure your parking brake cable isn't binding. That is also a common problem on our models - the cable brackets tend to get bent when putting the car on a lift. If the cable is seized, you'll need to replace that too.
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Also, make sure your parking brake cable isn't binding. That is also a common problem on our models - the cable brackets tend to get bent when putting the car on a lift. If the cable is seized, you'll need to replace that too.
The little lever thing with a spring to keep tension, that's the parking brake correct? That has free play so I'm assuming it's not a problem. The piston boot all bunched up together is the b!tch that's causing the problem I believe. I hope a parts store is open on Labor day (I'm praying)
Originally Posted by 99Automagic
The little lever thing with a spring to keep tension, that's the parking brake correct? That has free play so I'm assuming it's not a problem. The piston boot all bunched up together is the b!tch that's causing the problem I believe. I hope a parts store is open on Labor day (I'm praying)
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Originally Posted by njmodi
That is correct. Once you have the new caliper on, make sure you apply/release the parking brake a few times (with the wheels off the ground) and make sure the hub still turns freely (with the brake released).
Thanks man. I called my local auto parts joint and they are open tomorrow, which is a relief. They have a few choices on calipers. Loaded and unloaded. Unloaded is what I go for I believe since I have all the brackets and the pads are fine. Correct me if I'm wrong. And when bleeding the brake after the caliper install, I only have to bleed the one I just worked on right? This is my first time doing anything with the brakes so I'm being a bit cautious. I was kinda surprised at how easy everything came apart. Seemed so complicated at first. I guess everything comes apart and goes together just one way, like everything else. Good looking out man.
hey, i just changed my calipers about 2 months ago. I was doing the pads when i notieced both were seized and the piston wasnt moving at all. Easy install, make sure to bleed and refill brake fluid. If you have any questions Pm me man.
walshy
walshy
The difference between loaded and unloaded, is that the loaded calipers include pads.
I would recommend buying unloaded. I don't know how recently you have replaced the rear pads, but it would be a good idea to put in new pads (both rear axles) at the same time. That way you are done with the rear brakes for the next 30-40k (or perhaps more, depending on your driving style).
I would recommend buying unloaded. I don't know how recently you have replaced the rear pads, but it would be a good idea to put in new pads (both rear axles) at the same time. That way you are done with the rear brakes for the next 30-40k (or perhaps more, depending on your driving style).
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Originally Posted by njmodi
The difference between loaded and unloaded, is that the loaded calipers include pads.
I would recommend buying unloaded. I don't know how recently you have replaced the rear pads, but it would be a good idea to put in new pads (both rear axles) at the same time. That way you are done with the rear brakes for the next 30-40k (or perhaps more, depending on your driving style).
I would recommend buying unloaded. I don't know how recently you have replaced the rear pads, but it would be a good idea to put in new pads (both rear axles) at the same time. That way you are done with the rear brakes for the next 30-40k (or perhaps more, depending on your driving style).
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Yea, I heard that a seized caliper could damage the pads somewhere, so that was one of the first things I checked. It's a good thing I saw and smelled the smoke. I caught the problem very early. Lucky me I guess. Thanks for all the help people.
You posted in another thread about a comment I had about my rear passenger side seizing...
I only replaced that caliper, and only bled that caliper. I have absolutely no pull to either side (these are the rear tires after all, they don't cause the car to turn.) My brakes feel better then they ever have, and have a nice solid pedal that barely takes any effort to stop.
It is a good idea to bleed them all, and replace both calipers. But it definitely is not necessary. I will bleed the rest of my brakes when I have more time, but I'm not personally spending money to replace the other caliper which is working just fine.
My .02
In the front, that would be an entirely different story... you would definitely have to do both.
I only replaced that caliper, and only bled that caliper. I have absolutely no pull to either side (these are the rear tires after all, they don't cause the car to turn.) My brakes feel better then they ever have, and have a nice solid pedal that barely takes any effort to stop.
It is a good idea to bleed them all, and replace both calipers. But it definitely is not necessary. I will bleed the rest of my brakes when I have more time, but I'm not personally spending money to replace the other caliper which is working just fine.
My .02
In the front, that would be an entirely different story... you would definitely have to do both.
Originally Posted by tomservo291
In the front, that would be an entirely different story... you would definitely have to do both.
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Originally Posted by njmodi
You may want to use some fine sandpaper (or whatever else) to knock of the glaze from the pads and rotor (from the excessive heat).
You were so right about this. Yesterday when I replaced my caliper, I totally forgot about the sanding down part. All seemed well and good, til today. I started getting a low pitch hum when the car is slowly creeping from a stop. At the height of my irritation, your tip popped into my head. Soon as I got home, I took everything apart, sanded down the pads, the rotor, and threw in some lube behind the pads for good measure. That fixed the problem right up.
Thanks alot for all your help. God bless you my child.
Originally Posted by 99Automagic
You were so right about this. Yesterday when I replaced my caliper, I totally forgot about the sanding down part. All seemed well and good, til today. I started getting a low pitch hum when the car is slowly creeping from a stop. At the height of my irritation, your tip popped into my head. Soon as I got home, I took everything apart, sanded down the pads, the rotor, and threw in some lube behind the pads for good measure. That fixed the problem right up.
Thanks alot for all your help. God bless you my child.
Thanks alot for all your help. God bless you my child.

Originally Posted by 99Automagic
I'm 29. But it took me all of those 29 yrs to actually get my hands dirty. Two months of tinkering with my car is all I got under my belt, and a FSM. lol
I'm the same age as you! I have a little more experience than you, but not a whole lot! My Maxima is just a hobby and primarily my interest is to keep it on the road, keep it safe and keep it running like new. No mods (yet!).Cheers.
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