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Rear Brake Caliper Problem, quick answers appreciated.

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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:20 PM
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99Automagic
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Rear Brake Caliper Problem, quick answers appreciated.

I was coming back from grabbing some coffee today, when I noticed a weird smell (like buring plastic). Suddenly I noticed some smoke through my rear view window. I ran home right away to see if I could notice anything, but the smoking had disappeared.

I was doing a walk around of the car when I noticed the heat coming from the rear, driver's side wheel well. That's where the smoke had come from, the plastic smell was still lingering. My rims were HOT. I couldn't even attempt to touch the caliper or the rotor. Caliper seizure was my guess. So I took the wheel off and dismantled the brake.

What I saw was, around the piston, there was some rubber sticking out around it, all bunched up. Figuring this stopped the piston from retracting, hense the seizure and the intense friction heat.

My question is, is there a way to stuff the rubber back around the piston, or am I out of luck and need to replace the caliper?

Thanks in advance guys.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:29 PM
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You could try to rebuild the caliper, but it would be best to replace the caliper. You can buy a replacement caliper for 80 bucks from www.partsamerica.com.

To rebuild the caliper, you'll need to buy a rebuild kit (that includes the new piston boot and other soft parts).
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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Also, make sure your parking brake cable isn't binding. That is also a common problem on our models - the cable brackets tend to get bent when putting the car on a lift. If the cable is seized, you'll need to replace that too.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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If you have to replace a rear caliper, ensure you replace both of them. The brakes are hydraulic and you will have uneven braking if they both are not replaced at the same time.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:36 PM
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99Automagic
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Also, make sure your parking brake cable isn't binding. That is also a common problem on our models - the cable brackets tend to get bent when putting the car on a lift. If the cable is seized, you'll need to replace that too.

The little lever thing with a spring to keep tension, that's the parking brake correct? That has free play so I'm assuming it's not a problem. The piston boot all bunched up together is the b!tch that's causing the problem I believe. I hope a parts store is open on Labor day (I'm praying)
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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99Automagic
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Originally Posted by Bobo
If you have to replace a rear caliper, ensure you replace both of them. The brakes are hydraulic and you will have uneven braking if they both are not replaced at the same time.
Isn't that what the bleeding is for?
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Automagic
The little lever thing with a spring to keep tension, that's the parking brake correct? That has free play so I'm assuming it's not a problem. The piston boot all bunched up together is the b!tch that's causing the problem I believe. I hope a parts store is open on Labor day (I'm praying)
That is correct. Once you have the new caliper on, make sure you apply/release the parking brake a few times (with the wheels off the ground) and make sure the hub still turns freely (with the brake released).
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 05:28 PM
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99Automagic
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Originally Posted by njmodi
That is correct. Once you have the new caliper on, make sure you apply/release the parking brake a few times (with the wheels off the ground) and make sure the hub still turns freely (with the brake released).

Thanks man. I called my local auto parts joint and they are open tomorrow, which is a relief. They have a few choices on calipers. Loaded and unloaded. Unloaded is what I go for I believe since I have all the brackets and the pads are fine. Correct me if I'm wrong. And when bleeding the brake after the caliper install, I only have to bleed the one I just worked on right? This is my first time doing anything with the brakes so I'm being a bit cautious. I was kinda surprised at how easy everything came apart. Seemed so complicated at first. I guess everything comes apart and goes together just one way, like everything else. Good looking out man.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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I suggest bleeding all 4 corners and getting new brake fluid in. It should be changed periodically as its hygroscopic and retains moisture.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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99Automagic
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Originally Posted by Bobo
I suggest bleeding all 4 corners and getting new brake fluid in. It should be changed periodically as its hygroscopic and retains moisture.

Alright, will do. Thanks.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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hey, i just changed my calipers about 2 months ago. I was doing the pads when i notieced both were seized and the piston wasnt moving at all. Easy install, make sure to bleed and refill brake fluid. If you have any questions Pm me man.

walshy
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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The difference between loaded and unloaded, is that the loaded calipers include pads.

I would recommend buying unloaded. I don't know how recently you have replaced the rear pads, but it would be a good idea to put in new pads (both rear axles) at the same time. That way you are done with the rear brakes for the next 30-40k (or perhaps more, depending on your driving style).
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:12 PM
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99Automagic
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walshy-

you got pm
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
The difference between loaded and unloaded, is that the loaded calipers include pads.

I would recommend buying unloaded. I don't know how recently you have replaced the rear pads, but it would be a good idea to put in new pads (both rear axles) at the same time. That way you are done with the rear brakes for the next 30-40k (or perhaps more, depending on your driving style).
The pads are less than 10k miles old. Still meaty.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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Then as long as there is no obvious damage to the pads from the binding caliper, you should be able to reuse the pads.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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99Automagic
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Yea, I heard that a seized caliper could damage the pads somewhere, so that was one of the first things I checked. It's a good thing I saw and smelled the smoke. I caught the problem very early. Lucky me I guess. Thanks for all the help people.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 08:29 PM
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You may want to use some fine sandpaper (or whatever else) to knock of the glaze from the pads and rotor (from the excessive heat).
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
You may want to use some fine sandpaper (or whatever else) to knock of the glaze from the pads and rotor (from the excessive heat).

Will do
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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You posted in another thread about a comment I had about my rear passenger side seizing...

I only replaced that caliper, and only bled that caliper. I have absolutely no pull to either side (these are the rear tires after all, they don't cause the car to turn.) My brakes feel better then they ever have, and have a nice solid pedal that barely takes any effort to stop.

It is a good idea to bleed them all, and replace both calipers. But it definitely is not necessary. I will bleed the rest of my brakes when I have more time, but I'm not personally spending money to replace the other caliper which is working just fine.

My .02

In the front, that would be an entirely different story... you would definitely have to do both.
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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Like they said about the pads etc, that's exactly what I did.

My pads/rotor had a bluish tint/glaze on them, I just lightly sanded and brakes pretty hard a few times after replacing the caliper and mine are still fine.
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tomservo291

In the front, that would be an entirely different story... you would definitely have to do both.
Why do both fronts have to be replaced together, whilst the rears can be replaced independently?
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 02:46 PM
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99Automagic
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I got them done today. Replaced the one caliper and bled that one caliper. Works great. Same as it ever was.
Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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99Automagic
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Originally Posted by njmodi
You may want to use some fine sandpaper (or whatever else) to knock of the glaze from the pads and rotor (from the excessive heat).

You were so right about this. Yesterday when I replaced my caliper, I totally forgot about the sanding down part. All seemed well and good, til today. I started getting a low pitch hum when the car is slowly creeping from a stop. At the height of my irritation, your tip popped into my head. Soon as I got home, I took everything apart, sanded down the pads, the rotor, and threw in some lube behind the pads for good measure. That fixed the problem right up.

Thanks alot for all your help. God bless you my child.
Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:35 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 99Automagic
You were so right about this. Yesterday when I replaced my caliper, I totally forgot about the sanding down part. All seemed well and good, til today. I started getting a low pitch hum when the car is slowly creeping from a stop. At the height of my irritation, your tip popped into my head. Soon as I got home, I took everything apart, sanded down the pads, the rotor, and threw in some lube behind the pads for good measure. That fixed the problem right up.

Thanks alot for all your help. God bless you my child.
Heh heh.. who's older?
Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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99Automagic
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Heh heh.. who's older?

I'm 29. But it took me all of those 29 yrs to actually get my hands dirty. Two months of tinkering with my car is all I got under my belt, and a FSM. lol
Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 99Automagic
I'm 29. But it took me all of those 29 yrs to actually get my hands dirty. Two months of tinkering with my car is all I got under my belt, and a FSM. lol
HA HA!! Thats a laugh I'm the same age as you! I have a little more experience than you, but not a whole lot! My Maxima is just a hobby and primarily my interest is to keep it on the road, keep it safe and keep it running like new. No mods (yet!).

Cheers.
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