At 70k I changed the original NGK platinums. Plug #1 had oily threads. I'm pretty sure the plug tube seals are fine (pics below), so I couldn't figure out where the oil was coming from - head gasket, valve seals, some other seal at the bottom of the plug tube??

so I did a compression check:
1----2---3---4---5---6
213 211 215 208 220 215

the FSM specs 185psi. so I'm thinking I'm either good, or I've got a lot of carbon in there taking up space and increasing the compression ratio.

I put NGK coppers in and checked them at 2k miles. my obeservations:
- the new plug #1 has oil on the base (above the threads), where the original had it on the threads only. WTF? I still dont think this is the plug tube seal though - the coil pack was clean.
- the coppers seem blacker at the end of the threads than the platinums.

What do you guys think??

here's some pics of the old and new plugs, and the plug tubes:

Original Platinums w/ 70k miles:

Coppers w/ 2k miles, #1 is the "oily plug", (the gritty stuff is anit-seize). check out how the oil is now "pooled" up on the base of the plug instead of down in the threads:

Coppers, 2k miles, end view:

Plug #1 tube view (carbon on the piston!!!):

Plug #2 tube view:

 

in '1531165545456

 

I wonder if you have a leaky seal. Go to www.auto-rx.com and consider ordering a bottle or two of that. It rejuvenates the seals and is reported to have stopped many an engine seal leak, including rear main seals. I am presently using it before switching to syn***ic oil for the first time. I have no leaks but am just cleaning my engine, crankcase and ring packs, as well as rejuvenating the seals.

 

where did you do yuor compression test.
i think i need to do it also. my max smoking little bit

 

Definitely not a valve cover tube seal leak.

Pehaps oil is leaking down past the valve guides... how is your oil level? do you notice any significant drop-off between oil changes?

Thats a lot of carbon (as seen from the tube pictures)... try a treatment or 2 of techron and maybe even seafoam through the brake booster hose.

 

I wouldn't worry about it.

 

I dont know if you have mechanic friends but try a BG Induction service. It isnt cheap but works good as hell to get rid of that carbon.

 

I just started an Auto-Rx cycle. but i don't know which seal it would fix in this case??

 

over the past 3k miles I noticed about 1/8" drop off on the dipstick. I don't know what that translates to in terms of quarts - but it seem small to me.

I just changed from 10W30 ST sythectic to 5W30 with Auto-Rx treatment (I plan to go 100% PAO german castol after the auto RX).

I did use 1 bottle of techron 2 fill ups ago, maybe I'll try that seafoam stuff -- the carbon does worry me.

 

buy a kit for $20 and do it yourself. just follow the instructions carefully, and get a Haynes.

 

That is negligible consumption. I wouldn't worry about the oil on the plug (as already stated by Mike.

Don't go overboard trying to fix something that isn't really a problem. Just do a seafoam treatment and/or BG induction service (carbon cleaning) to see if you can get some of that build up off.

 

With respect to the AutoRX, as you are probably aware, use dino oil on the 2,000 mile rinse phase, not synthetic. Follow the instructions to the T, ie. change filter, run AutoRX for 1,500 miles, change oil and filter, run dino oil for 2,000 miles and change filter and switch to German Castrol. You might want to stock up on the GC as it apparently is tough to find.

I am switching from dino juice to Esso XD3 Extra, 0w30, PAO, full synthetic available only at Esso bulk plants in Canada. I have some 1,650 miles left to go on the AutoRX rinse phase before I make the changeover. Since starting the AutoRX and using a bottle of Chevron Techron, I literally can't hear my engine idle with the windows rolled up and stereo and AC turned off. I think my fuel economy has also improved a tad and recently went through emissions testing with no problems for the first time since buying a Budget y-pipe last year.

 

Dave mentioned in the past about putting a table spoon of ATF in each cylinder

 

My brother's car breathes black and goes through oil like UGA goes through alcohol. Any recommendations? I am asking because someone above said that their max was smoking and someone else asked if he goes through oil fast.

 

you mean this little trick? http://crx.honda-perf.org/faq/data/5.html

I'm a little weary of putting ATF in my engine. the stuff is really corrosive. maybe a tablespoon won't hurt too much though.