Does anyone have a link to a write-up to replace the rear calipers? Or can anyone provide tips? I am going to replace my right rear caliper because the ebrake mechanism on it seems to be siezed and the piston is very hard to turn in (a sign that it will be failing shortly). Please advise.

Thanks

 

I'm sure I have seen a write-up before but I can't find it in the How To's or or motorvate.ca. For some reason I can't open maxmods.dyndns.org today.

When in doubt refer to the Haynes manual as it is fully detailed there.

Shame on you if you don't own one, as they only cost about Cdn$20 plus tax! You will also need the caliper tool for turning the piston in. Needle nose pliers are an alternative, but I've read that a lot of people have a b!tch of a time using them for turning the caliper piston.

 

Will this one help?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=431872

 

Thats just a writeup for the rotor/pads. I need one for the caliper.

 

BTW would you guys suggest removing the line from the banjo bolt, or like 12" up the line where it meets with the vehicle via flare nut?

 

Haynes Manual, Chapter 9

This is the write-up for replacing rear brake pads.

1. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. Remove about 2/3 of the fluid from the reservoir.

2. Support the vehicle securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels.

3. Work on one brake assembly at a time, using the assembled brake for reference if necessary.

4. Inspect the brake disc carefully. When I had my rear calipers and pads replaced, I did not have the rotors machined as they did not need to be. I was advised to replace rear rotors rather than machine them as they are fairly thin to begin with.

5. Clean the brake assembly, the remove the parking brake cable clip and unhook the cable from the lever. Unscrew the upper caliper bolt; the brake hose banjo fitting doesn't have to be removed for pad replacement.

6. Pivot the caliper out of the mounting bracket and remove the inner pad and the outer pad.

7. Remove the upper and lower pad retainers.

8. Remove the anti-rattle spring from the caliper and inspect it; if it's cracked or otherwise damaged, replace it.

9. Remove the shims from the pads.

10. Wipe off the caliper pin and lubricate it with high-temperature grease, then reinstall it.

11. Install the shims on the pads.

12. Apply anti-squeal compound to the backs of both pads (let the compound "set up" a few minutes before installing the pads.

13. Install the upper and lower pad retainers.

14. Install the outer pad. Install the inner pad.

15. Turn the piston to retract it - make sure one of the notches in the piston engages
with the projection on the pad. Swing the caliper back into position and install the mounting bolt, tightening it to the 28 to 38 ft. lbs., then reconnect the parking brake cable.

This is the write-up for replacing rear calipers. You should never replace only one rear caliper. As they are hydraulic, both should be replaced at the same time to ensure even braking.

1. To disconnect the parking brake cable from the rear caliper, unbolt the cable bracket from the caliper and disengage the cable from the toggle lever.

2. Remove the banjo bolt and discard the old sealing washers.

3. Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Plug the brake hose to keep contaminants out of the brake system and to prevent losing any more brake fluid than is necessary.

4. Remove the caliper mounting bolts and detach the caliper from the mounting bracket.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget to use new sealing washers on each side of the brake hose banjo fitting and be sure to tighten the banjo fitting bolt to 144 to 168 ft. lbs. and the caliper mounting bolts to 16 to 23 ft. lbs.

6. Bleed the brake system ( I won't provide this write up). Make sure there are no leaks from the hose connections. Test the brakes carefully before returning the vehicle to normal service.

Don't forget to clean the rear rotors using a swirling motion with sandpaper or emery cloth to remove the glaze.

I hope this helps.

I had my rear calipers and pads replaced and the brakes bled for 1 hour labor and provided my own parts that I got at a corporate discount. Total all in Cdn$400.

BUY A HAYNES MANUAL!

 

All you have to do to replace the caliper (once you have removed the caliper (as you would when replacing pads)), is to undo the banjo bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper. Fluid will leak out.

TIP 1: Break the banjo bolt loose while the caliper is still on the car.

TIP 2: Make sure you use the a new washer with the banjo bolt when installing the new caliper.

TIP 3: You will need to thoroughly bleed that caliper/brake line after replacing the caliper.

 

It's not a good idea to replace just one caliper. If you have to replace one you should do both

 

I learned this the hard way and had to put the caliper back onto the torque member to break it loose.

 

True...but this caliper I bought was from a junkyard and it already had 100k km on it (60k miles) from a 96 GLE.

 

You are reiterating what I stated earlier. Obviously, I'm not alone in my recommendation.

 

OK so I replaced the caliper and bled the line. Now when I brake my pedal travels WAY more. Is this a sign of air in the lines still?

 

Not necessarily. Did you replace the brake pads while you were at it? If so, it takes some time for the new brake pads to seat and I found there was more brake travel, but it goes away after about a week or less of normal driving, ie. the brake pedal firms up. In the meantime, don't brake too hard and let the pads seat themself.

How much did the brake caliper from the junk yard cost? How many miles are on the other original caliper and pads. I don't think I would have gone that route and, again, you should have replaced both calipers.

My rebuilt calipers from Lordco, net of the core return, cost me Cdn$110.48 each plus GST and PST. The rear caliper and brake pad replacement cost me a total of Cdn$400 and it would have been at least Cdn$1,000 through Nissan.

 

Interesting. The last time I did a brake job (ie replace all 4 rotors and pads), the pedal only went to the floor at the first stop. After that everything returned back to normal almost immediately.

 

I did same thing, when I was inexperienced. that's why you should pump the pedal a few times before pulling away. Fortunately, this time you didn't hit anyone

 

I always pump the pedal even before I leave. But I figured that it would still become more stiff and the travel reduced once I drove..it never did though.

 

Does anyone know if I can swap the front and rear bleeder nuts? If so I am going to remove the bleeder nut from my spare rare caliper and slap it on the front one.

 

Either air is still in your lines, you have a leak (didn't tighten the nut connecting the line to the caliper enough), or you bled the brakes but never topped off your brake fluid after

 

A Haynes or Chiltons manual is only $15 each. Just buy one (or both).

Also, AutoZone has repair guides on-line (they are usually taken straight from the Haynes/Chilton anyway).
Click Here.

 

Yes - should be able to swap the bleeder screws.

And you still have air in the lines (assuming no leak). There is no reason the pedal should feel soft once you've seated the new pads properly and used the e-brake a few times.

 

Bleed all of your calipers. I know it may sound over kill to some, but I do that any time I have to drain any brake fluid. Usually keeps me from chasing my tail.

 

Is it really necessary to disconnect the ABS actuator before bleeding like the Haynes and Chiltons state? I am in the process of installing Hawk pads/Brembo blanks, removing my dust shields and painting my calipers. I will be wrapping up one side tonight since the paint should be dry when I get home. Thanks.

 

I heard from somewone that despite the fact that both the front and rear bleed valves are 10mm, the front and rear use a different thread pitch. What are your thoughts on this?

 

Just checked with my local Nissan dealership and indeed the front and rear caliper bleeder valves are the same part (same part #).

 

Anybody knows whether reman calipers from NaPA any good?

I just found out about those Akebono calipers from this thread.....they are nice looking indeed, but pricey at $80 per piece (www.rockauto.com).