sunten1

I went to the dealership, little over a week ago for an oil change. I dropped the car off like normal, and came back to pick it up, along with a 3 grand total of parts that need to be repaired/changed


Ok well basically I need your help to find out what I need to change, and a where abouts on the price of the parts.

Well here it goes
Rear Main Seal Leaking Est. $850 + TAX
Front Brake Job Est. $282 + TAX
Rear Brake Job Est. $282 + TAX
Possible Both Rear Calipers? Est, $755 + TAX
Exhuast Cat Convertor Hanger Broken Est. $130 + TAX
Rear Emergency Brake Cables Damaged Est $357 + TAX
Left Outer CV Boot Ready To Split Open Est. $247 + TAX
Right Outer CV Boot Ready To Split Open Est. $282 + TAX

Well I know the exhuast cat hanger is ****ed
My brakes squeeek like all hell
i believe my rear brakes are ****ed as well (when i finish driving and park the car i hear noices coming from the rear rim area)
I hear don't really hear the clicking noice on the CV joints when i turn, it does happen sometimes tho... i dunno
And the rear main seal is prolly leaking but i don't have any oil on the ground. so i can leave that alone.

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

1. Almost all of that you can do on your own.
2. those prices are freaking rediculous.... just another reason why I hate the dealership......

sunten1

Well I was planning on doing most if not all these repairs myself, I was looking for a part list of some sort

Nissan 6

should have done the oil change yourself so you wouldnt have to found out all this bad news

Skiptronic

Why did you even go to the dealership to get your oil changed? It's not hard to do it yourself.

Like many others, I suggest you get a haynes manual like right now.

Nissan 6

10 chara

VIP Maxima

dude RUN away from that dealer. just RUNNNN and never look back, you have nothing to lose.

sunten1

LOL Thanks guys...
So nobody is going to help me with the parts that I would need?

Fast1one

iTrader: (12)

Here do this

1. GO back and do this
2. Do the work yourself or have a friend do it
3. Sell your car
4. In that order

Damn you were about to be

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

.....................newbs.....................

sunten1

Well after I found out what happend I was going to do it my self, I am looking for what parts i need, there prices, and where i can buy them....

Fulltone74

For the price they quoted you for stock brakes, you could buy aftermarket performance brake pads and get the rotors resurfaced for the same money.

For the rear main seal, the cost they quoted you is about what a competent performance shop would charge. I had the same work done and paid about the same.

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

i got my cv boots changed for $90 each side...i think thats rite, all i know is $90 was a figure, cant remember if it was each or both, most likely each

sunten1

where??????

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

i got all 4 rotors x drilled and slotted, axiss metal master pads for front and rear...and my ss brake lines cheaper than that. axles were like 75 a piece and my main seal has has a slow leak for almost a year and a half. just keep your eye on it...

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

paid 100 for both cv joints
paid 90 shipped for both front crossed drilled and slotted brembo rotors
53 dollars for ebc green pads

for the rear main seal, they sell something to fix that. i forgot i think its some oil additiive

Mayhem King

iTrader: (1)

That's insane. Akebono calipers run about $70 each. Brembo rotors run about $30 each. Hawk HPS pads run about $65 per axle. Total labor shouldn't cost more than $90 per axle (and that's on the high side).

Have Jeff and Mike @IRP hook you up:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=422678

I think the dealership is trying to steal from you.

95max4me

Get a quote from some other repair shops. ONLY goto the dealer for an oil change when you want to know what might be going wrong with your car, and have the repair/maintenance done somewhere else. Like going to BestBuy to look at the stuff you want in person, then find those cheaper on the internet.

Bobo

Go to www.auto-rx.com and www.bobistheoilguy.com and read about AutoRX. This product can only be bought over the internet. It thoroughly cleans engine internals, crankcases and ring packs and helps replenishes leaky engine seals. It reportedly has stopped many a rear main seal leak. Add it to your crankcase, change your oil filter, run it for 1,500 miles, change oil and filter (use only dino oil) and run it for a further 2,000 miles. If your engine has more than 100K on it, repeat the process.

Do not go to the stealership ever again. I bought rear calipers and pads through a local auto parts store, using a corporate discount, and had a local shop installed the calipers, pads, and bleed the brakes for Cdn$400 all in. The stealership would have charged be in excess of Cdn$1,000.

What part of avoid the stealership like the plague do you not understand?

randy021186

well as for the axle and the brakes u should do yourself, it not hard.....and can someone tell me what and where is the rear main seal?

Rbhays

Since the 4th gen maxima is out of production you'd be better off going with aftermarket parts rather than the insanely expensive OEM parts

ThisMaxIsTight

iTrader: (23)

just take it one step at a time... first do your brakes, thats the most important..its pretty easy, just go to motorvate.ca and print out his instructions... get some brembo blanks and oem pads...trust me, this is the best combo ... then do everything else step by step...dont let it overwhelm you..good luck

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

WRONG.... another stupid comment......

dmBK

iTrader: (3)

YES, it is!

sunten1

ok i called one place today and got a quote of 188 for 4 rotors and pads...
Brembo rotors, and axxiis deluxe pads... plus shipping

I need to find a place for e-brake cables, anyone know of any?

blackmaxx96

iTrader: (23)

I will agree with that.... Brembo blanks are the way to go!!!!

Stuntin' 101

first thing to remember.. all those prices are for dealer parts.. you dont need to buy dealer parts.. just as an example.. cv joints you can buy at pep-boys for $69 a peice (just for the part) and comes with a lifetime warranty.. the hanger you can probably take to any minekee or muffle place and there charge like $25 to weld one on for you.


honestly, seeing that you brought it to a dealership for an oil change, you dont strike me a a big do-it-yourselfer. i wouldnt take on some of these projects as your first learning experience. my suggestion would be to first take that list to a local mechanic, and see what kind of price they give you.

you can definately do the brakes yourself.. but id leave the axle's for a professional.

bhmax16

+1 - If you're a big dyi-er then why do you need us to give you a parts list? Look at your brakes....do you really need them? If so then look online and price out some rotors and pads of your choice. Are your pads wearing evenly? If so your calipers should be fine, but just to make sure take off your calipers and make sure the piston isn't seized. Also make sure the two smaller pistons on the torque member move freely. If you want/need to replace your brake lines get some stainless steel lines from SCO. As for your rear main seal take a look for yourself and see if you've got a leak or if the stealership was just trying to screw you. If you have a leak determine how bad it is. If it's small try an auto-rx treatmant first. If it's extensive obviously replace the seal. No rocket science here

TurTLe*

iTrader: (11)

if you wanna go a cheap route you can pick up 90% stuff from autozone. pep boys. places like that. when i did my brakes i went with napa.

there prices are from memory. not actual prices but i think it should be in the area.

$35x2 = a rotor
$7 x2= hardware kit for brakes.
$35 = set of brake pads
$5 = bottle of brake fluid in case you want to brake bleed.
$70x2 = CV axle's after core trade-in. $150 - 80 for the core.

You can do all that in one sitting since they all are right there since the rotors are connected to the CV axles and what not.

calipers and rear main i never done. but like everyone says get yourself that haynes manual. Its very helpful. i dont own one myself because i'm looking for a cheap book. But i've done it without it with ease.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Save 2 "brake hardware kit"s and you could have a Haynes (15$)

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

Or you can do it urself for like 400$

motocross416

iTrader: (6)

thats crazy $130 for them to take one minute and weld the hanger back to the cat?

sunten1

Yeah I saw that, I was planning on spending like 200 just to buy a Y-Pipe.....and have someone weld that **** on for me....

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

oil changes at the dealer = bad.

{-_-}

iTrader: (2)

the good thing is that going to the dealership, they'll give you a heads up on what's wrong with your car... and give you really overpriced, crazy prices.

something people left out above. if you are going to change those cv joints, i suggest you have air tools and a lift as it'll make it much easier. also, you're going to need an alignment afterwards.

good luck.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I'm confused. They gave you a list of what needs to be replaced and you come here asking for another list of what needs to be replaced. Their list is pretty self-explanatory. For example:

CV Boot needs replacement... buy CV boot.
Rear Main Seal needs replacement... buy rear main seal.
Both rear calipers need replacement... buy both rear calipers.

It's not exactly rocket science.

But yeah, if you took your car to the dealership to change your oil, like a 15 minute, single bolt job, I don't think you should attempt these things yourself.

Anyhow as far as the Ypipe goes- order a warpspeed ypipe (since you want a ypipe anyways) and it comes with a new cat hangar.