Quick question about changing my own oil
#1
Quick question about changing my own oil
It states in http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/511 that I should go for a nice long 30min drive before changing. Can I not change the oil when the engine is cold?
#2
You can, but it would take forever to let the oil to drain out if it even does drain out completely. 30 mins might seem like overkill, i usually drive for around 10 mins if my cars been parked, but that seems like long enough to get the oil fairly thin.
#7
Originally Posted by greengrass215
just let it idle for like 15 minutes than drain it
#8
you don't have to let the oil warm up to drain it. Open the plug, let the oil flow out, and change the oil filter. After the oil starts to drip like a leaky water faucet you got enough out. Plug it up and measure how much oil you drained. Fill it to level on the dipstick.
#9
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Originally Posted by Armelius
you don't have to let the oil warm up to drain it. Open the plug, let the oil flow out, and change the oil filter. After the oil starts to drip like a leaky water faucet you got enough out. Plug it up and measure how much oil you drained. Fill it to level on the dipstick.
-matt
#11
Never could get the logic behind hot oil drainage. The oil after it set a night (let's say) has already settled to the bottom of the oil pan from the engine block. Everyone knows that starting the engine is what wears it down quicker than running it because the oil isn't circulating first or most has drained to the pan.
Also if it is hot the dirty oil is still in the engine block. You want as much of that oil out as possible, with it in the pan you don't have anything to worry about for if you remove the oil filter it will drain even faster with the action of gravity, just like two holes in a can.
I have yet to see the nissan car manual saying start the car up first to warm up the oil before changing it.
Also if it is hot the dirty oil is still in the engine block. You want as much of that oil out as possible, with it in the pan you don't have anything to worry about for if you remove the oil filter it will drain even faster with the action of gravity, just like two holes in a can.
I have yet to see the nissan car manual saying start the car up first to warm up the oil before changing it.
#14
With all the supportive commentary on changing the oil while its hot, Im surprised no one's offered any tips on pulling the plug without burning yourself. I like to change my oil cold just for this reason, but as luck would have it I did the quickest oil change I've ever done yesterday evening. Having experienced the discomfort of getting your hand drenched in hot funky oil, I tried the "pull as fast as you can" method. Surprised to say, it worked better than I thought it would.
#15
Originally Posted by Armelius
Never could get the logic behind hot oil drainage. The oil after it set a night (let's say) has already settled to the bottom of the oil pan from the engine block. Everyone knows that starting the engine is what wears it down quicker than running it because the oil isn't circulating first or most has drained to the pan.
Also if it is hot the dirty oil is still in the engine block. You want as much of that oil out as possible, with it in the pan you don't have anything to worry about for if you remove the oil filter it will drain even faster with the action of gravity, just like two holes in a can.
I have yet to see the nissan car manual saying start the car up first to warm up the oil before changing it.
Also if it is hot the dirty oil is still in the engine block. You want as much of that oil out as possible, with it in the pan you don't have anything to worry about for if you remove the oil filter it will drain even faster with the action of gravity, just like two holes in a can.
I have yet to see the nissan car manual saying start the car up first to warm up the oil before changing it.
here's 2nding the cold oil change
#16
Originally Posted by matty
Its always a good idea to let the Oil get nice and HOT before you change it out....I take at least a 15 min drive usually to go get oil, and Ill take the long way to get the Oil hot...its alot better than changing cold oil
-matt
-matt
#18
fix typos
i don't believe in warming up the car in order to change the oil. like Armelius says, its all dripped into the oil pan from the last time you drove it, so you'll get more old oil out if the engine has not been run. it does drain a little faster when hot, but we're not talking hours or anything like that.
and here is something for you to think about. why don't you jack up the left side of the car a little bit to make sure the oil flows to the drain?
and here is something for you to think about. why don't you jack up the left side of the car a little bit to make sure the oil flows to the drain?
#20
Originally Posted by DennisMik
i don't believe in warming up the car in order to change the oil. like Armelius says, its all dripped into the oil pan from the last time you drove it, so you'll get more old oil out if the engine has not been run. it does drain a little faster when hot, but we're not talking hours or anything like that.
and here is something for you to think about. why don't you jack up the left side of the car a little bit to make sure the oil flows to the drain?
and here is something for you to think about. why don't you jack up the left side of the car a little bit to make sure the oil flows to the drain?
That is a real good idea.
I wonder what they have to do to used oil to clean it up so that it can be resold or if it's just burnt in some power plant somewhere.
#21
the best thing is to use synthetic oil which stays at optimal viscosity at most temperatures and drains uot pretty good even when cold. also you can increase the interval you change your oil yo 5000mi. I mean what is better than that. it flows through the engine better when cold than regular oil so it reduces wear, and it (supposedly) gives you better gas milage because of the reduced friction, it breaks down over a way longer interval, and finally a lot of new cars come from the factory with Mobil1 oil, so unless you live in north dacota, the synthetic oil will drain just as easy as a regular hot oil from your angine when cold
i hope you know wht i am talking about as sometimes I think faster than I write
i hope you know wht i am talking about as sometimes I think faster than I write
#22
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Originally Posted by Capitone
With all the supportive commentary on changing the oil while its hot, Im surprised no one's offered any tips on pulling the plug without burning yourself. I like to change my oil cold just for this reason, but as luck would have it I did the quickest oil change I've ever done yesterday evening. Having experienced the discomfort of getting your hand drenched in hot funky oil, I tried the "pull as fast as you can" method. Surprised to say, it worked better than I thought it would.
clifs
1. pull drain plug out really fast
#23
I usually try to change mine when it's sat for a while, but I agree with the "Pull drain plug out really fast" Method too, so I guess it's mostly just what you belive and personal preference.
#24
Like some people have already said, I don’t think that there is any worth while advantage to changing oil while its hot. If there were it’d probably be in the manual. If I had the time Friday, I would have waited until the oil cooled down, but that’s not the first time I’ve had to change it hot, probably won’t be the last. Good to know at least one way to do it without getting burned.
#25
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change it cold - that way all the contaminents are settled at the bottom of the sump and more will drain out (as opposed to being stuck in the top end of you motor). THEN - pour a quart of cheap virgin dino (the thinnest you can find) through the motor and let it flush out any old oil/crud that is still pooling in the sump - it will start to drain clear near the end of the quart. I know it seems like waste of fresh oil, but for <$1 to keep your sump clean...
#26
Originally Posted by sky jumper
change it cold - that way all the contaminents are settled at the bottom of the sump and more will drain out (as opposed to being stuck in the top end of you motor). THEN - pour a quart of cheap virgin dino (the thinnest you can find) through the motor and let it flush out any old oil/crud that is still pooling in the sump - it will start to drain clear near the end of the quart. I know it seems like waste of fresh oil, but for <$1 to keep your sump clean...
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