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3 alternators later

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Old 10-25-2005, 12:46 PM
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3 alternators later

ok here's the deal i have had 3 replacement alternators (go autozone) because of loss of power and the bearings were worn. The belts were not too tight because on the last one i left the belt loose enough to squeak and i dont know wut the problem is. The abs light came on and i turned the rotors got brand new ceramix pads up front and bled the system, evrything cool for one day and car ran fine then when the abs light came on the front brakes made a rattling noise and the car started running like butt.
wuts the deal is the abs messin it up is it the alternator.
please help
thanx
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Old 10-25-2005, 12:48 PM
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OEM alternator > Autozone/Pepboys/etc.

Not sure how a bad alternator will cause brake rattles.
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Old 10-25-2005, 01:53 PM
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The Alternator Was From Autozone, But I Think The Piston In The Caliper Is Not Engagein All The Way So As To Let The Pad Rattle Against The Caliper But This Is Comming From The Front And The Diagnostic Said The Abs Light Was Caused By A Short From The Rear Abs Sensor (and I Already Cleaned It)
Please Help
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Old 10-25-2005, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
OEM alternator > Autozone/Pepboys/etc.

Not sure how a bad alternator will cause brake rattles.
I'd hate to bust your bubble but most dealerships sell refurbished alternators now.

Get a CanAm Alternator.
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Old 10-25-2005, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo
I'd hate to bust your bubble but most dealerships sell refurbished alternators now.

Get a CanAm Alternator.
I know this

Just like the dealership starters are also reman. units. They are still better *other than the odd case* than anything you will buy from Autozone, etc. I have a friend in the motor reman business (starters, alternators, etc.) and he said what you get at all these parts chains is a crap shoot - sometimes the entire guts have been replaced so its like new other than the reused chassis, other times, only the regulators, rectifiers are replaced, etc. it just varies from one reman unit to another.

The Nissan remans are completely rebuilt - i.e. no internals are re-used.
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Old 10-25-2005, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 99I30lmtd
ok here's the deal i have had 3 replacement alternators (go autozone) because of loss of power and the bearings were worn.......


The abs light came on and i turned the rotors got brand new ceramix pads up front and bled the system, ..........


then when the abs light came on the front brakes made a rattling noise and the car started running like butt.
wuts the deal is the abs messin it up is it the alternator.
please help
thanx
Stop working on your own car.

Why did you put new rotors and pads on when the ABS light came on? Makes no sense at all. The ABS light indicates a problem with the Anti-Lock system, not the actual brakes. Perhaps you should have the car serviced by a technician. You need to pull the codes from the ABS system to figure out whats wrong.

I still don't understand the 3 alternators part on this thread?
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:34 PM
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Stop Working On My Own Car Son I Been Working On Cars Since I Was 13 I Know When My Brake Pads Need To Be Replaced, The Front Passenger Side Had Almost Metal On Metal So I Think It Would Be Appropriate To Replace Wouldnt You? As For The 3 Alternator Part Of The Thread The Bearings In The Alternator Kept Going Out And Being That The Alternator Was Whinning And The Power Loss I Had I Changed The Alternator, And Voila Magic The Car Corrected Just Like It Was. Before I Get Flagged For A Flame Im Gonna Stop But
Ne1 Got Any Usefull Info??
Thanx
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Old 10-25-2005, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 99I30lmtd
Stop Working On My Own Car Son I Been Working On Cars Since I Was 13.

Before I Get Flagged For A Flame Im Gonna Stop But
Ne1 Got Any Usefull Info??
Thanx
Yes refer to pic
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Old 10-25-2005, 04:55 PM
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WTF is that post? A Title to a New Movie? ALmoSt AS BAd aS tHiS. He should devote less time to his brakes and more time on language lessons.
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:05 PM
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IM SORRY THAT I WROTE IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS GUYS, I SUPPOSE I AM NOT AS EXPERIENCED IN THE WORKINGS OF THIS HERE COMPUTER, I JUST FIGURED I HAD A PROBLEM WITH MY VEHICLE AND BEING THAT THIS IS A ORGANIZATION IN WHICH INFORMATION OF SAID SUBJECT COULD BE OBTAINED. THEN I IN MY OBVIOUS ATTEMPT TO DO SUCH I GET A ENGLISH LESSON. I GUESS NEXT TIME I NEED ADVICE ON MY CAR ILL GO TO THE MODERN LANGUAGE ASSOCIATION TO GET IT.
THANX FOR THE SCHOOLING GUYS I WASNT EVER MUCH FOR THE BOOKS AND SUCH
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:07 PM
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but seriously. How Do You Type Like This? Doesn't It Get Tiring? I Don't Get It.
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:54 PM
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actualy i did nothing of the sort, i have no idea why it wrote the capital at the first of every word i typed just like i am typing now and that is the way it came out i didnt know it was a big deal. Now that we have solved the mystery of the phantom uppercase lettering can anyone please help me with the abs problem?
thanx
tim hattox
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 99I30lmtd
actualy i did nothing of the sort, i have no idea why it wrote the capital at the first of every word i typed just like i am typing now and that is the way it came out i didnt know it was a big deal. Now that we have solved the mystery of the phantom uppercase lettering can anyone please help me with the abs problem?
thanx
tim hattox
You need to pull the ABS codes
(According to Haynes)

1. Drive car above 20 mph for at least 1 minute
2. Stop car and turn off engine
3. Ground terminal L on the DataLinkConnector(consult connector) in drivers fusebox (no pic to post, hope its labeled)
4. After 3.6 seconds the ABS light will flash and stored codes
5. Post codes here
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:28 PM
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i already got the code and like it said above it was 36 the driver side rear abs sensor was shorted but it is intermitant, it comes on and the car drives and runs like $hit, when it goes off i have normal power and car runs good.
wtf
i appreciate the reply
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Old 10-26-2005, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 99I30lmtd
i already got the code and like it said above it was 36 the driver side rear abs sensor was shorted but it is intermitant, it comes on and the car drives and runs like $hit, when it goes off i have normal power and car runs good.
wtf
i appreciate the reply
The "ID10T" virus must be going around. REPLACE THAT SENSOR!

Your 99 I30 Limited has traction control. That system uses the wheel speed sensors to detect slip. The traction control system is whats causing your car to run like $hit when the sensor gives incorrect signals to the ECU.
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Old 10-26-2005, 05:36 AM
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thanx for the reply, the plan was to replace the sensor i just couldnt figure out why the sensor worked some of the time and didnt the other times, appreciate the responce, but i thought the traction control would say something like TCS instead of abs, but wutever i appreciate the help
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Old 10-26-2005, 05:52 AM
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Are you running some kind of heavy load on your alternator? Subs, auxiliary lights, etc? If I understand this correctly, you've had FOUR alternator failures - the stock one the car came with, and three replacements? Something is seriously wrong with this picture. Are they all bearing failures or are they electrical failures as well (voltage regulator, armature, etc)?

My alternator is the original with more than 10 years and 214,000 miles of flawless service. What is happening to yours?
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