I was told by my cousin, who is a mechanic, that if you car has a MAF sensor that the K&N filter was no good. He said this is because the oil from the filter can buildup on the MAF sensor and cause the engine to run rough and throw codes. Has anyone else heard this? If the MAF sensor does need replacing after a while do you think K&N would replace it under the filter warentee?

 

I don't know about that --

But it doesn't filter air as well as other type of brands.

 

All 4Gen Maximas have a Mass Air Flow Sensor. It is located in the engine air intact duct, just downstream of the air cleaner filter.

I have heard that the filter media in some aftermarket air filters tends to disintegrate with time and the fragments which break free may collect on the MAFS causing failure of this expensive component.

 

Daniel,

Could the MAF be damaged by removing the small screws on the side of that flat box on top of the sensor, and pulling the electrical receptacle all the way out to expose the 3 small wire sensors? I mistakenly did this when installing my POP charger and now my car dies when I step on the gas, or turn on the AC. I'm hoping that resetting the ECU will fix the problem. I assumed that since there were screws there, I could safely remove the electrical plug receptacle and reinstall. It doesn't appear to be vacuum sealed, so I'm puzzled as to why my car is dying.

Thanks,
Van

 

Please see my response to your thread on this subject.

 

The effect of oil, from the filter, on a MAF depends on the type of MAF used. Some MAFs have a heater (like a self cleaning oven) to burn the residue off. I believe the MAFs on the Maximas have the heater. You can tell by looking in the FSM, or at the connector for the MAF. If there is a heater there will be more than 3 wires in the MAF connector. I know that the early Q45s don't have a heater.
A dirty MAF element can be cleaned with a light spray of brake cleaner (won't leave any residue). Don't do this with the engine running.

 

I've had my K&N on for over 100,000 miles and never had any problems with it...

 

cousin = misinformed

I have run the panel and cone style K&N filters for years. Most of the problems that you hear is from the improper maintenance of the filters. ie... overoiling the filter media. K&N's instructions are VERY clear about this. Unfortunately some either can't read the instructions or choose to ignore them.

 

hey van, i think i have the same exact problem as you do. i accidently took off those 4 screws on the MAF sensor (i thought it could be screwed back in) and now, i'm not sure what to do. I did have that problem with the engine shutting off when attempting to drive the car. Now, it seems ok. But i think i do have that MAF sensor problem (and the car will not go over 2400-2500rpms). Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Because I recently just attempted to put on a JWT pop charger on my 96 max.

 

However, the HKS intake is foam and could possibly break down over time and clog something...

-V

 

I have had K&N in three different cars, for 5 years and never had a problem with any of them.

Erik
tifosiv122@hotmail.com

 

Maximaxgtr,

What I did was to take the screws out again, and remove the small 3 pronged element and add more solder to the tips of each one so that I could be sure they would make good contact with the 3 small prongs inside the MAF sensor. Once I had done this, (it took 4 attempts at resoldering and screwing the thing back in) the car worked fine at all RPMS. It's possible since your car will not go over 2500 RPM's that the prongs are not making the correct contact with the 3 soldered elements on the part you unscrewed. I would try either bending the prongs a bit to see if you can fix the contact points, or if you're good at soldering, try adding a bit more solder to the connections if they don't appear even, but don't overdo it. Once I had the MAF sensor fixed, the check engine light came on and threw the MAF sensor code. I reset the ECM to no avail, but after about 3 weeks, the light went off on it's own. It's a tricky part, but once the connections are back the way they were, the car should be fine.

Van

 

Maximaxgtr,

One thing I should add, be careful bending the prongs on the part you unscrewed, and I wouldn't mess with the 3 small prongs on the inside of the flat black box on MAF sensor. If one of these breaks, that's probably it for the sensor. The part retails for $488.00 from my dealer in Houston. You can pick up a used one for about $55 through a salvage company on the internet, (I don't have the URL with me but can get it if necessary).

Van

 

I've got the Panel like you and have put about 75k on it since I got it. No problems whatsoever...like someone else here said though, don't over-oil it when you clean it.

 

hey van, when i take out the 4 small screws and take out the portable black piece (that has the 4 holes) containing the 3 prongs, should i slightly bend the 3 prongs toward the MAF sensor or should i slightly bend it towards the portable black piece (with the 4 holes)? If this doesn't work, I will give it a shot on soldering it back. After when I put the 4 screws back on, should I reset my ECU again and then turn on the engine? Or it doesn't really matter?

 

Maximagtr,

I would try first bending the prongs toward the portable black piece to see if that will help it make contact with the inner prongs in the MAF sensor. It depends on how the inner prongs in the sensor are sitting. I actually removed the whole MAF sensor from the car and turned it upside down to reveal the alignment of the inner prongs so I could see exactly what I was supposed to do. It was still hard to line up the prongs and the contacts. I personally wouldn't bother resetting the ECM. If you get the sensor reconnected properly and the car runs correctly, it will probably go off on it's own in a few weeks. I reset mine twice and the check engine light was still on. It went off on its own eventually.

Van

 

hey van, i think i will attempt to take off the whole MAF sensor part and do the same thing you did (turning it upside down). How much of a hassle was it to take that whole part off? Taking off the air intake should be a breeze, but how can I take off the MAF sensor off? Are there any screws to take off to do this?