MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Chaning my Axle, and though getting the 174+ft/lbs torqued bolt would be my hardest challege. It came off with ease, but the outer tie rod is stuck.

At first I was just trying take off the bolt with a 19mm, but realized I needed to the gear puller. Hooked it up and broke the gear puller. Going to go get another one but doesnt the nut that is on the bottom of the outer tie rod need to be take off? its screwed on. If I'm not mistake the gear pulley is trying to pull a nut off of its threads? turning the nut spins the bolts and nut.

Do I just need another gear pulley and try again?

RockfordMax

iTrader: (2)

Lol suspension rules!...... I wish i could help, but this sounds like the same type of issue with the strut nut, can you post a pic of what your trying to do?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

I don't know where you are using a gear puller on the outer-tie rod. Did you pop the tie rod out of the knuckle?

You have to loosen that nut that locks the outer tie-rod in place on the inner tie rod. Once you have that loosened, the outer should spin off the inner tie-rod fairly easily.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

It certainly didnt spin off easily.

I tried loosening the nut, it was moving but when I got under the car I saw the nut and bolt were rotating together, I couldnt figure out a way to stop them from both moving. There wasnt enough bolt to use a vice grip.

The tie-rod was on the knuckle, same as if I hadnt done anything to it.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Cut it apart and buy a new one.

bhmax16

The only way you'll get that nut off is an impact wrench. Turning the nut by hand is only going to make the bolt spin as well (the bolt is supposed to spin...it's a lubricated ball-type joint which is why it's protected with a boot. Your problem is you just aren't using the right tool for the job. The impact wrench delivers so many powerful blows within seconds that the nut turns before the bolt has a chance to turn (if that makes any sense). I do this for a living so just take my word for it, lol

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I used an impact wrench, it didnt get it free, I didnt do it for long but I think it might have been why it was so loose. I will try it again.

So the outer tie rods dont need to gear pulley in order to free it from the knuckle?

I think I need to try the impact wrench again.


It crossed my mind.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

It's only like 25 bucks for a new one.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

and when messing with the outer tie rod, I saw the boot was broken, dont know how long but now I gotta change that too

You evil man . . .

...pondering

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Check your local Advanced Auto.

Or order from www.rockauto.com

SkinnyMax

iTrader: (1)

If you are just changing your axle there is no need to remove the tie rod from the knuckle. And once you get the nut on the bottom off you use a pickle fork and not a gear puller to get it off.

Wheelie King

iTrader: (19)

I replaced both axles last year and I didn't remove the tie rod(s).

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

You didnt disconnect it? I dont see how you got the axle out with about being able to swing the hub away.

Wheelie King

iTrader: (19)

I disconnected the two bolts from the strut and the hub swung down. The axle compresses a little to get it out. I tapped the spindle a bit and it popped out.

bhmax16

Yup Wheelie King is right, disconnecting the tie rods isn't necessary for axle removal. I usually do it anyway just to give myself more room to work with. Another option is to disconnect the balljoint from the knuckle instead.

Mdeezy - What kind of impact wrench did you use? Do you know if it has a single or dual hammer mechanism? Most have duals but like I said, I don't know what kind you used. I have an Ingersoll Rand 2135TI rated at 1,000ft lbs of nut busting torque and let me tell you the thing is bad azzzz.

Another option is if you try using needle nose vicegrips instead of regular ones. I'd think the needle nose would be small enough to get onto the spindle to help prevent it from moving

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

This is how I did mine. Loosen locking nut from inner end of outer tie rod end. The nut needs to turn clockwise to do this. Remove tie rod end nut were it connects to the knuckle. Hit knuckle with hammer until tie rod end pops out. Now use a wrench to turn the tie rod end counter clockwise off the tie rod.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Its interesting to read that some of you didnt need to disconnect the outter tie rod to get the axle out.

I have an Dewalt electric impaact wrench rated at about 345ft/lbs of torque.

I would need to swing to hub away, as I will have to swapp out the control arm also, could the outter tie rods still be connected for that?


just to make sure were all on the same page, the bolt in the middle of the red circle is what I am refereing too. I originally started to use a ratchet and try to take it off, it just spun (both bolt and nut). I use the impact wrench on it and it seemed to have loosen but I stopped.

wheelieking: The hub swung down a lot but I didnt try to compress the axle to get it out, sounds like a good idea, but I might as well learn how to properly get it off as looking up the outer tie rod I saw my boot broken, so it will have to come off one day. I just might try that as thiws axle does need to go asap, plus the new susupension cant be any better for it.

Dubbya: So I should just loosen the nut, and bang with a hammer. a bit confused here. The Nut on the bolt isnt moving, it spins with the bolt.

bhmax16: The needle nose vice grips sounds like a good idea, there was enough space for me to wedge my 19mm wrench in there, I'm sure the needly nose could get in there.

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

I had to replace both axles TWICE, due to cheap crap from autozone. Both times I just removed the two bolts from the strut. The hub will swing down to the left some. I then just took a brass punch and punched the axle out. Then took a screw driver and pryed it out of the tranny. Then just pull the axle out, easy as that.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Eek. It shouldnt be spinning with the bolt. Sounds like the tie rod end is toast as well. I removed the nut entirely before hitting the knuckle with a hammer.

Just to make sure, you did remove the cotter pin right?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Then what the hell is with his gear pulley that the haynes/fsm suggest using? I was thinking about it (after I broke it) whats the point of it?


I'm going to leavin the outter tie rod alone, I know it will make work a little harder, but as long as I can get the job done, and right I wont mind.

Wheelie King

iTrader: (19)

Agreed. It is pretty easy. I had trouble popping the thing out of the tranny with a screw driver but it isn't real bad. Use a big screw driver.

ALSO - MAke sure you have something to catch your tranny fluid with. You'll lose some as soon as you pop the axle out. Make sure you have proper spec tranny fluid available to replace. Its not that easy to find.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I think I have a massive flat head around. and I have 5 quarts of gl4 fluid I got from the dealer a while back, might as well do a drain and refill while I'm at it.

RockfordMax

iTrader: (2)

Haha we're all gonna be some suspension guru's in a couple weeks

SkinnyMax

iTrader: (1)

If I was you I would do one of the jobs first, doesn't matter which one, just don't let the knuckle hang from the tie rod. Finish one project so it can be supported by either the control arm or the strut. And once again for the ball joint you will need a pickle fork to pop it out from the knuckle. And don't tighten the nuts for the control arm until the car is sitting on the ground, this will save the bushings from wearing out prematurely. Then go get an alignment because everything will be out of whack.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Yea, at first I was going to take off the struts, take out the axle, then take off the control arm, but I thought, do it in steps first.

Struts went good, and got stuck a stage II. I was going to do the axle and control arm together but, I want to get the axle done, its been clicking, with these S-tech I believe I'm rubbing a little (only at full turn) and now I hear a metal rubbing metal sound that lasts a few mins then goes away . . .

gotta tackle this tommorow evening, tonight is no good

RockfordMax

iTrader: (2)

not trying to hijack, but its not new thread worthy, Lately at random times and random speeds i hear like the sound you hear on the grooves before toll booths, (the bvvvvvvvvvvvt) but coming from below my front end.. and no im not actually driving over them! Anyone have an idea what this is? i need basically all new parts + a drivers axle (blown CV boot). does that basically cover what it would be?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

If you need basically all new parts, I'd like to believe something that gets swapped out will cue the sound. Maybe wheel bearings very very early in their stage of going out

lugs tighned down?

kraimer21

iTrader: (10)

dude, i replace both of my outer cv boots a few month back, i opened that 36mm nut on the hub, the hub swings over and axle should easily come out. the first boot i was doing, even though i did read how-to's, wasn't exactly sure what to do, so i ended up pulling the axle out of the tranny, therefore i know for a fact you DO NOT need to remove the tie rod!

good luck

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Update:

You guys were definately right, Skinny, Dubbya, Wheelie, bhmax 16. I didnt have to disconnect the outter tie rod. I tried using a needle nose vice, grips but no luck.

I swung the hub away with the outter tie rod still connect, and used the female side of my 6" socket extention and a hammer. Got it out, and witha few good tugs, it came out of the tranny. Funny part, I forgot to put a drain pan below the axle. Needless to say, the fluid came pouring out of the whole quite quickly.

refilled the tranny, put the car back together and she's driving great. I have the ABS light on now so I have to investigate.

SkinnyMax

iTrader: (1)

did you make sure you got an axle that has the abs sensor ring on it?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Yup - Perhaps you got the wrong type of axle, OR, you may have damaged the ABS sensor or sensor wire while working on axle.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

yes it has the ring on it. I dont think it moved when putting the new axle in. When I got up in the mourning to drive to work the light was off but came back after a couple mins of driving.

I'm hoping it goes away, I really dont want to have to take the axle out again, but will if I have to . . . sigh . . .


I hope I didnt damage the sensor but, there is abs code right? I'll check those and it should tell me whats going on.