4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

need help with knock sensor removal

Old Nov 13, 2005 | 01:22 PM
  #1  
SamMan23's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 554
need help with knock sensor removal

I can't get that bolt loose. I'm using 3/8s with u-joint, extensions and 12mm. tried 1/4" drive with 12mm flex socket and extensions... I've tried wobbles too... every time I can't seem to get it to turn. I feel like it's just trying to turn on it's side. I feel like if I really try to get on it, I might break something. I'm doing everything I can to not have to take off IM and injectors. any advice?

I've even got my hand down there with a normal 12mm wrench.

nobody post the motorvate site because it doesn't help with getting the bolt off.
Old Nov 13, 2005 | 01:30 PM
  #2  
BigLou93SE's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,581
From: Danbury, CT \ Rochester, NY
What I used is a 3/8" drive u-joint and socket wrench, 12 mm socket, and 10" extension. All I know is this: it took me much longer than what some people boast as their speed record for knock sensor replacement. Remember that there will be more torque applied through to the socket as the angle between the socket and the extension (through the u-joint) decreases. Try to get that extension as close to the manifold as you can. Mine didn't feel like it wanted to come off, but it eventually did. Good luck with it, and bump for anyone else's suggestions.
I really had to hold the extension with one hand to ensure that it didn't move, while only turning the wrench. It's kind of awkward.
Old Nov 13, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #3  
Tfvesquire's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 224
Hi Sam Man 23: I have a 98 SE that I had to replace the knock sensor and was quoted a ridiculous amount to remove the IM and other parts. My method is a slight variation on the posted ones.

What I ended up doing is purchasing a Craftsman 8mm-15mm open-end/ratcheting box end wrench set (you can also purchase only the 12mm separately). I took the 12mm wrench and found a long flat screw driver(preferably 10" or more for leverage) with the blade wide enough to fit inside the open end of the wrench, Then I used duct tape to secure the blade tip of the screw driver so that it creates an "L" in the open end of the wrench. Then, you put the box end on the bolt and carefully tighten the bolt slightly to break it free, then remove the driver and wrench, flip the ratchet lever and loosen the bolt. The handle of the screw driver is used as a handle while the wrench remains flat and snug on the bolt.

Forget trying to get your hand in there unless you're an elf. And trying to have small child remove the bolt for you will be great until they drop the bolt into oblivion inside the engine valley. Use a flexible pick-up tool with the four wire prongs to remove the bolt. There is no washer on it, so it makes things easier. Then, pull out the entire KS attached to the wire harness and replace the unit. That way, you can be sure the connection is secure on the KS.

To reinstall the KS, apply some electrical connector grease to the underside of the (this will help to keep the unit in place while you install the bolt. Plus, put a little dab in the KS bolt hole to help hold the bolt in place. Then use the flexible tool to hold the bolt (MAKE SURE THE BOLT IS BEING HELD FROM THE SIDE, NOT THE TOP!!) if you hold it from the top, it will be impossible to snake the flexible tool in the cavity and get the right angle to drop the bolt in place. Takes a steady hand!!!

Now comes the hard part. You can't use the 12mm wrench and screw driver combo to tighten the bolt. I used a 12mm 12 point 3/8 socket with a universal joint attached to the socket. Then, attach a 10" extension to the universal joint and use your hand, not the 3/8 ratchet to start the bolt. Your fingers will be able to "Feel" when the bolt is started and then you will be able to tighten it snug. ** If you try to use the ratchet, it will keep ,oving out of place and the bolt threads won't start to grab.

This may take a couple of tries while the KS moves out of place. It can be done, but those people who posted replacing them (or 2!!!) in 30 mins are a little off in my book. To rush this "surgery" could result in dropping the KS bolt and then you're stuck. From start to finish took me about 1 1/2 hours.

Good luck to you and let me know if you have any questions.
Old Nov 13, 2005 | 05:05 PM
  #4  
jwmaxse's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,135
Nice write-up, don't see how that's going to help him get the bolt off though

I've done this a few times and all I did was use a 1/4" ratchet and a pry-bar. First put the socket on the bolt and position the ratchet so that you can shove a breaker bar, or a long bar in behind the handle. You basically use the pry-bar/breaker-bar for leverage, instead of trying to reach down there with your hand. I ended up just putting it down there and holding the handle on the ratchet to keep it steady and the leverage broke it free right away.
Old Nov 13, 2005 | 09:14 PM
  #5  
ManualMaxima's Avatar
5th Gen till she dies!
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,544
i used a flexable rachets wrench. it is like a regular wrnech exept there is a gear in it.
Old Nov 13, 2005 | 09:21 PM
  #6  
maxima_kenny96's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,446
we got mine with a 10" extension, universal joint, and a 12 mm flex, that worked, then again I had my automechanic teacher standing right next to me...
Old Nov 14, 2005 | 07:49 AM
  #7  
MaxKlinger's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 873
When I did it, it went about as easy as motorvate.ca makes it out to be. If you have to remove that Intake Manifold it isn't really that big of a deal, I had to do it to change the plugs on my dad's '02. I'd imagine that it would be even easier on a 4th gen because the manifold doesn't have any actuators for the secondaries. The gasket was only something like $18 from the dealer.

Good luck!
Old Nov 14, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #8  
woody4_26's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 82
I use the flexible closed ended wrench also the u-joint i think its called and it took me a total of about 10 min. to change fast and easy you may cut your hand a couple times putting it on the bolt to get it off but otherwise its worth it.
Old Nov 14, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #9  
Mrbizness1's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 147
From: Mt. Sinai NY
Can anyone tell me exactly where the knock sensor is. I'm need to get a better look at it so I can understand how you are able to replace it without removing the manifold. My maxima failed the emissions inspection because of the KS and a shop says its the only way to get at it. Mine is a 96
thanks

Old Nov 14, 2005 | 04:11 PM
  #10  
killerVQ30DE's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,107
Originally Posted by Mrbizness1
Can anyone tell me exactly where the knock sensor is. I'm need to get a better look at it so I can understand how you are able to replace it without removing the manifold. My maxima failed the emissions inspection because of the KS and a shop says its the only way to get at it. Mine is a 96
thanks

You definitely don't need to remove the intake manifold!!!

I had put off installing the knock sensor because I had heard it was a real mission.. well with the below its really quite simple and pain free

I used the extension method.. had the knock sensor out in about 20mins and not a single cut

I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm



I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.
Old Nov 14, 2005 | 04:15 PM
  #11  
siballiance's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 282
yea hi me....

ohh i remember how i F*cked with that thing,

its a nightmare, i was doin it all by hand, OMG....

those are nice tools by the way, should of think of those.
Old Nov 14, 2005 | 05:49 PM
  #12  
Toolrocks's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,464
heat the car up some, spray a liberal amount of penetrating oil onto the bolt while it's still hot. Then, as soon as the car is cool enough for you to work on, try removing the bolt. It should snap free. I've done several of these and have never had much problem - that's not to say it's so easy though.

I found the best way to put the KS back in was to: slide the bolt through the sensor, and then use a pair of long tongs (found in your gf's kitchen) to guide the whole assemble back into place. If you're real good, you can use the tongs to hold the base still while you use you other hand to get the socket head back on the bolt for tightening. Good luck.
Old Nov 14, 2005 | 07:20 PM
  #13  
Curt Deiner's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 443
From: Minnesota
BigLou has it right, I did it the same way, but used a 3/8-1/2 and my 1/2 drive ratchet to get more leverage. Use a 6 point socket and support the extension. Also the universal will bind at a certain point so get it set up so you have clean rotation. Get a magnet tool.
Old Nov 15, 2005 | 06:02 AM
  #14  
cardana24's Avatar
Blown
iTrader: (81)
 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,762
From: Charlottesville, VA
I did two lastnight. I used a 1/4" drive rachet, witha 14" extension, and a 12mm swivle socket. Just keep one hand pushing the extension down so you do not round the bolt, and put a pipe on the end of your ratchet and turn. It will break free.
Old Nov 15, 2005 | 10:01 AM
  #15  
SamMan23's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 554
okay, I got the bolt loose. I just had to put some muscle into it. I was afraid of breaking something before, but not I realize that it's okay to put some muscle in. used the breaker bar and it came loose. The bolt had some corrosion on it. probably from engine detailing and water getting in there. I appreciate this thread for the fact that I realized that there were other people who had a hard time changing out their knock sensor as well and it's not always 15minutes...

thanks friends....
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ballerchris510
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
17
Sep 23, 2015 08:46 PM
bumpypickle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
10
Sep 20, 2015 08:22 AM
ballerchris510
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
Sep 11, 2015 05:29 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:12 AM.