i was getting codes everyday for ks

so i changed it and this is a pic of what the original on looked like

 

thats probably the coolest thing i have ever seen

 

That's how my original one looked like too.

I wonder if you'll be in the 14's now.

 

Holy crap. Mine didn't look that bad when I changed it. Feel any restored HP?

 

wow.. seriously. you should be in the 14's problay mid 14's if you have your stock wheels minus the speakers as well. thats kinda neat to look at tho.

 

Mine was not as bad as yours, but it did have several good size cracks all around it. Prettey cool when the hesitation is gone.

 

that looks bad but not as bad as the one out of a spare motor I have. its compleatly melted.

 

i'll give you $10 shipped for the melted one.


jk.

Mine looked new when it came out, i couldnt really tell the difference between the two.

 

what is that for? what does it do?

 

glad you got it fixed.

is it possible to have a bad knock sensor without a code?

 

Yes

 

i hope you're not serious.

 

hehehe, yea i am..

 

what does the knock sensor rest on? if its a rusted area wouldnt it be best to clean off the rust? i notice the one i bought has a hole in the middle as if it rests on some sort of peg...i donno?

 

Yes, thats where the bolt goes in to hold it down. Rust is no big deal. It should be fine as long as the knock sensor is snugly held down enough so the that the engine knocking can be transmitted properly to the sensor.

 

Seriously, www.google.com

Dave

 

it sits in the middle of the engine block.

 

did anyone's knock sensor have only one wire going to it?
mine even had tape around the one wire inside the wire loom that looked like someone like spliced it or something.
god it feels like everything in my car has been tampered with. (you should see the positive battery cable)

 

there is only one wire

 

there's only 1 wire attached to the ks, then it splits out to two. motorvate has a great write-up here: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507

 

Yeah there was only one going to the actual sensor if that's what you mean.

 

That sensor got knocked up.

 

Anybody have any tips or tricks for removing the knock sensor on a 99? There is nowhere near as much room as there is on the earlier Maxs.

I'll take pics later, but the fuel rails and FPR are in the way.

 

1/4" drive extension (14" or 18"), 12mm wobble socket, extending magnet.

Dave

 

I can barely see the thing with all the crap in the way, but I'll give it another shot.

Thanks.

 

take off the actuator for the lower butterflies and you should have better access. a recent tip was to use a coat hanger and tape to get the new one in position.

 

mine looked the same as that

 

depone what to post your heart out in every thread to get your 15

 

I keep on getting 0304 code. Every mechanic says that the intake manifold must be taken of to replace it and that it takes hours of labour. Is the 99 max different from the previous ones in this respect? Should I even attempt to do it myself?

 

Definitely try it using the wobble socket, extension, and long-reach pliers. This is how to do it w/o removing the manifold - some mechanics have heard of it, others have not. Going by the book, they will always remove the manifold. It's not too hard, and definitely worth trying. I dunno about the 99s, maybe you need to remove one or two little items to get enough access to reach under the manifold with the tools.

Even if it doesn't work out, I used those tools pretty frequently now. It's worth doing that before spending hundreds to have a mechanic do it the hard way.

Dave

 

This thread helps. Just read this and jump on it. Have lots of patience. May the force be with you.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=315851

 

I'm telling you, it's WAY easier if you use a 12-point 12mm gear-wrench! Pop off the top part of the electrical connector that's in the way, pull some harry houdini moves to get your hand stuck under the intake, then hand yourself the wrench, get it on the KS, then take another wrench and slip it over the open-end of the 12 mm wrench to give yourself some leverage, it looks like it's impossible, but there is actually space for the 2nd cheater wrench underneath all that crap. I use a gear wrench.

 

I was following you all the way up to this point. My hand does not, will not, cannot, fit in that space without massive injury.

For those of us with big hands, I guess either kevlar filleting gloves or the long extensions are the answer. It's ok though - you know what they say about guys with big feet, large hands, big nose...

Dave

 

That can't be true unless your hands are unhuman size. Me and my friend both have giant hands and we can fit them in there with a little struggling. I'm sure you can do it too. Maybe you're not sticking them into the right opening.

 

yeah they are really goofy looking!!!!!!!!

 

well if he does know by now I'm not going to tell him!!

 

I am new to this forum and cannot add new threads until I reply to fifteen. I am also not a mechanic. I change my own oil and I changed the starter on my '96 Maxima. I have a KS engine code and wonder if it is because I burn cheap gas. Can't afford premium. If I use premium and reset the engine light, might it solve the problem?

Many Thanks,
Russell

 

I think, but I'm not positive, that it just retards the timing on you and doesn't throw a code.

For those with big hands, well you're screwed, but did you pop off the top of the electrical connector that's in the way, because it's impossible without doing that first, and yes, it is a VERY tight fit, you really have to wiggle and manuever your hand all around. Every time I do it, (I've done 4 so far!) I say to myself "Am I going to be able to get my hand out of here?"

 

Yes, it may. If the ks code reappears ALONE, while you are feeding it strictly premium, the KS needs changed. But until you decide you want to use premium it's won't matter.

Dave

 

Hey Hey Hey, I think I know which opening to stick it into

Anyway, after I figured out how to use the extensions, I'm glad I never tried. It could never be worth it to me.

Dave