IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Man....I just cleaned my TB and IACV...and wow...what a difference. Car runs much better. I should have taken pictures to show you guys, but man was it filthy in there. This brings me to a question. Read the following:

1997 Maxima GXE

Purchase Date: Feb. 05

Purchase Milage: 150,xxx mi

Purchase Price: $500

Initial Expenses To Make It Driveable:

$2,200 (Changed entire suspension except for Contol Arms, replaced O2 sensors, replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, replaced knock sensor)

Work Done Since:

1. Swapped EVAP system out of my parts GXE
2. Swapped Driver Door from parts GXE
3. Swapped Rear Right Passenger Door from parts GXE
4. Swapped Front Left Fender from parts GXE
5. Purchased Sylvania Xtravisions (9004)
6. Oil change every 3k miles
7. Cleaned Throttle Body
8. Cleaned IAC Valve

Current Milage: 164,xxx mi
Future Mods/Work:

1. OEM Factory Head Unit
2. Kenwood 6 3/4 KFC-1789IE 3 Way Speakers (All Around)
3. Install JVC CH-X1500RF Mp3 Changer
4. Install OEM Fog Lights
5. SE White Face Gauges
6. 25% Tint All Around
7. 16x6.5 OEM 5-Spoke Alloys
8. Fix Cruise Control System
9. Finish up body work (Buff/Paint, Fix rust in driver side rocker panel, change windshield)
10. Change ALL fluids
11. Clean Engine Bay
12. Clear Corners
13. Cleared out tails
14. Install OEM Spoiler
15. Purchase Leather Interior

Now, I know I listed costmetic mods, but in terms of mechanical things...is there anything I need to do to make my Max run like a champ? I'm not looking to increase my speed, my Max is strong enough for me. I want a simple, nice looking Maxima. The only major mechanical issue at the moment is vibration at 70mph or higher. So is there anything I need to do for the Engine?

1991tsi

iTrader: (2)

i'd fix things as problems/CELs crop up - fuel filter, leaks, etc. it'll tell you when it needs attention, as long as you listen... I also wouldn't put too much money into it unless its things you can remove and reuse. Vibration could be alignment, balancing, tires themselves.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

It probably needs a new fuel filter. Hows your MPG? Have you tried pulling any codes from the ECU? Hit the stickies for the how-to's. And by the way, nice job on what you have done so far....that is a lot of work to do to restore any car to driving conditions.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I understand what you said about not paying to much money. I didn't pay alot for this car, but the parts car...that's another story. I got the parts car from an auction. My goal was to drive IT. Because supposedly, and carfax confirms this, the miles are actual and it read 73kmi. That's the only reason I bid on it. The miles. Well anyway, I got it for $2000 after all auction fees and then paid like 400 for tax and paperwork. On the way home from Philly (where I picked it up) my tranny gave out on NJ Turnpike. So basically, I got screwed over and bought a lemon. My mistake. So I'm gona use anything that's good on it to make my existing Maxima last longer. The engine on the parts car is fine. So when it comes time to swap that, I'll do it. So I mean, I'm not really losing much. I have every part I could possibly need for my Maxima. My existing suspension is brand new, my interior is fine, my body is basically in great shape...so the only things left to take care of are the engine and tranny. I think I can manage that with all the parts I have at my disposal.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Why do you say it probably needs a new fuel filter? I just changed that at 150kmi (I'm at 163kmi). Do they really last that little? My MPG sucked, but after I cleaned the TB, IACV, and used Gumout Regane...I suspect it will improve. I just filled up on 93 octabe today, and reset my counter to 0...so we'll see. I'll keep you posted on what my next tank produces.

About codes from the ECU. After I cleaned my TB and IACV...when I went for a test drive, my light turned back on. I'm gona see which codes it is tommorow. Again...I'll keep you posted.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I said that because it was not in the list of work done, so I didn't know that you replaced your fuel filter 10km ago.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

As per the vibration, I'd start by having my tires balanced. If no dice, check the axles

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I changed the axles at 154kmi. Also, the virbation isn't constant. It's on and off after 70mph. Does that change anything? Also, I do have a bent front steel rim, but wouldn't that make the car vibrate constantly? Like I said it's on and off...

tomservo291

bent front steel rim.. and you don't think that would take your tire out of balance?

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

No...that's not what I said. I'm not THAT helpless when it comes to cars. If the rim was bent, it would be constant vibration after a certain speed. Correct? In my car, what is happening is, after about 70mph it vibrates for 5-10 seconds then stops for like 40 seconds...then starts again for 5-10 seconds. It makes no sense. If the rim was the cause of the vibration, it would be constant. Also, what I've noticed is...if I shut the OD off...get up to like 60mph...then punch it...the car vibrates in a similiar fashion while accelerating. I mean, it accelerates just fine, plenty of power, just strong vibration. Is this related?

1991tsi

iTrader: (2)

pretty funny, my 'tranny' gave out on PA turnpike, drove 250mi home with no clutch pedal...

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Wow. lol.

About the ECU codes I talked about earlier. Finally got it.

It's the 0801 code: Vacuum cut bypass valve or circuit fault

I'm guessing it has to do with the little white plastic valve with like 4 hoses coming in and out of it next to the EVAP canister, correct?