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My friend is is looking at buying this 4th gen maxima. Specs:

- 1997 Black SE Cloth Interior
- 125,000 miles
- Clutch & Engine seem to be fine

The independant dealer is asking $5,000 flat for the car, apparently it started at $6,500. Here are some possible problems we have discovered with the car:

- 2 CEL lights (one for knock sensor, one for chamshaft sensor).
- Seems to be some sort of rattling noise coming from camshaft (not all the time, but sometimes)
- Alignment is off
- Ugly sounded creaking noise when making a U-turn with the wheel turned all the way
- Clock doesn't work
- Front tread is bald

He really likes the car though since it's black/5sp and wants to get it and I'm trying to push him away from it because of the problems. If someone could shed some light into this I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Dan

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

How does the body look?

I'd go about a grand lower....

SDot82

iTrader: (2)

What's the part you want us to shed some light on? I would ask at least for another $1500-$2000 off.

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Some light on whether it's worth getting. Do you guys think the camshaft thing is serious? The body looks very good. My friend is trying to get it lower but the guy will only budge $4,900 final.

SDot82

iTrader: (2)

It's a tough choice because of the price he is asking and all those problems with the car. Wish I could be more helpful.

Mxrider52

iTrader: (8)

Once the stuff is fixed then I would possible give 5000

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's only a sensor ... 53$

I would get that car for about a grand less, didn't I just say that.

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Ok thanks for the suggestions everyone. Do you guys think the rattling sound which was coming from the camshaft is the result of the faulty camshaft sensor? When I was test driving the car it seemed to not want to accelerate as fast as my car, maybe just since I have a ypipe/intake.

KBB value in excellent condition is $4,500, so I would definitely agree with you guys about a grand lower from 5 would be worth it. Guy doesn't seem to want to budge though, we'll see... thanks again.

SDot82

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget the ks is not workin in the car so that would slow it down some.

ghost1

Agree with SDot on the KS. $70-$80 on EBAY and about an half hour of your time. Make sure you know someone with small hands to get new KS back in position. If you already have the tools recommended in the FAQ's to do this job you'll save yourself about $400 in labor at a shop (Shop said 4.2 hours to do they're following the manual...remove manifold..blah..blah..blah)...and about a $100 (dealer wants $185 here in TX) on part from dealer.

I just replaced mine and it makes a WORLD of difference in your performance both acceleration and MPG.

I'd definitely check the front suspension...could be a number of things...(check for fluid leaks and reservoir to see steering fluid is where it should be. If it's low and you've got drippage...could be your rack...about $600 part only)

Have you done VIN search? I believe there are ORG members who can run it for you to check it to make sure no serious issues.

As for price....NADA low retail is $4775....avg is $6125.....After you've checked everything else out...tell him what you know that's wrong with the car and how much it will cost to fix. If he does'nt budge ask him to throw in a 1000k mile warranty....If no go...walk...go back in a week to see if it's still there....he'll be ready to get rid of it then due to quota and year end..remember.there's others out there...if you're willing to take the chance....buy it...with all the knowledge in the org you'll have plenty of support to get her up to spec.

Good Luck

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

Tell the guy to offer 5k with all the repairs fixed. There are 132249049494 other maximas out there.....

ghost1

Sorry on the warranty comment and quota year end thing. You said he's independent dealer. My bad. Anyway, ask him to go half with you on having car checked out at a "reputable" shop preferably your choice. Should only be hour or 2 charge and puts skin in the game for both if you're really interested. Use findings as negotiating points. If he's still unwilling most your out is $60-$100.

Dooley

I agree, $5K is OK fixed but not as is. If he does not have the ability or desire to get the repairs done, and won't negotiate, walk off the lot saying 'lets go look at that other maxima down the street'. If this guy has had the car for sometime, he may cave.

Get quotes from a Nissan dealer for the work before trying to negotiate though.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Cam sensor is a 5 min job and a $90 part. Knock sensor always tripped when the cam sensor isn't working right - so don't worry about the knock sensor yet.
Often the timing chain tensioner (which is just a hydraulic damper) gets tired and allows the chain to make noise. Nuisance issue. It's a $60 part, but quite the pain to change unless you're in there for another reason. The tensioner is a good thing to change when changing the water pump.
$80. But I'd do that immediately and have them inspect for loose linkage or suspension parts.
Hmm, possibly a dying power steering pump or the power steering hydraulics need bled. You should not run any power steering system for more than a couple seconds with the wheels at full lock - it puts maximum stress on the power steering system.
No big deal, IMO. Replacing the clock panel is a 5 min job, but I'm not sure how much a used panel costs.
I'd subtract $500. A full set of decent all-weather tires costs about that much, and IMO it's extremely stupid to run tires anywhere near their wear limit.

It sounds like the tires are the only big ticket item. Be sure to lift the front end and look for oil leakage where the axles enter the diff - too many of the 5-speeds left the factor with improper assembly that slowly (or quickly!) converts the diff carrier bearings to metal shavings. Mine just died last month after 140k - others have not been so lucky.

Dave