I just got through installing a PYLE aftermarket alarm with keyless entry and everything works fine except for my doors wont unlock when I disarm the alarm. According to everything I researched the green/yellow wire in the door switch is the unlock and light green/red wire is the lock. And the wires are a (-) source. So I tested them. With the switch plugged in I grounded the green/yellow and it unlocks. I ground the light green/red and it locks. Perfect right? So I hook everything up and now it will lock with the keyless entry but it wont unlock. All it will do is disarm the alarm.

I read somewhere that Nissan used a dual-pulse relay to unlock the doors, so you have to get a special relay for a keyless entry that has dual-pulse. On the same site I read that you could solder the unlock wire for the keyless entry directly to the PC board for the door switch and it would work. But I tapped into the wire coming directly out of the switch. Do I need to connect the wire before the on board relay, because i'm guessing the wire coming off the board is after. Does anyone know a solution to this problem? I'm sure someone on here has an aftermarket alarm with keyless entry and encountered this problem. Thanks for any help.

 

I've messed around and installed keyless on my max. Out of the many problems I had, this was one. Splice in and solder before the board and this should correct your problem. It did for me at least.

 

you need a double pulse on the green/yellow stripe wire to unlock all doors, and disarm the factory security i think you can use a relay to provide a double pulse. Ive never dealt with an alarm/keyless entry that didnt have a setting to change single pulse unlock to double pulse... I just finished installign a 791xv in a 99 maxima and it works fine.The double pulse has to be a good ground. you should try using a relay to send the ground pulses to the wire. Connect like this, #85 to door unlock output from alarm, #86 to fused 12v constant, #30 to a good ground! not just some support under the dash! and make sure you remove any paint between the ground point it can cause some differance in voltage also known as resistance and this could cause your problem. #87 to your cars door unlock wire. Make sure that you have good connections and try to avoid T-taps as they may not make proper contact in certain cases.

 

What do you mean splice in before the board. I spliced in and soldered the connection right were the green/yellow wire comes out of the connector that plugs into the board.

DcMaN- How do you know if a relay is double pulse? Will it just say double pulse? Also, the wires for the door lock output say that they are negative so its meant to run on a negative system. So wiring it the way youre saying would make the relay ground the green/yellow wire when its triggered? I dont have any factory security so thats not really an issue right?

Thanks for the help guys, i'm no electrical genius, I know my basics and a little more. But this is my first alarm/keyless entry install and i've never dealt much with relays besides replacing them when theyre bad, or the one time I wired on a Ford starter relay to my old 280z. Thanks again for the help.

 

a double pulse is needed for the door to open.... you need to program the unit to do so.... oh somebody already said that...

 

not sure I can program it. Its a PYLE Watchdog PWD201. It doesn't say anything in the instructions about double pulse. It is a cheaper alarm system. I just need something on there because I'm tired of getting my car broken into or stolen.

 

just buy a normal spdt relay from autozone and hook the wires up according to the pin numbers i gave you.

 

Alright, I'm trying this first thing tomorrow morning. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

 

OK, since the people that work at my nearby Auto Zone are ********, and couldnt get me the type of relay I needed without knowing a "specific application", I ended up just tapping into the board. There are two places that look kind of like ying-yang signs where the lock/unlock switch makes contact with the board,the one closest to the front is unlock. If you have the board exposed and plugged in you can run a wire to any ground and touch the contact. The contact is split down the middle and when the switch touches it, it completes the circuit. So touch both sides and see witch one will unlock the doors. It should be the left side of the circle. Thats where you need to tap into.

Next to that side of the circle is a open lighter green area with one solder point already there and a small unused hole. Drill that hole out, scrape the green protective cladding around it to make a good solder point, run a wire through the hole and and solder it. Then just drill a hole in the lower casing of the switch and run that wire to your unlock output for your door, or relay depending on how your alarm works.

So now my alarm/keyless entry is fully functional. Sorry for the long drawm out explanation, but maybe this can help someone else in the future.

 

is SPDT required? a SPST should work, like RadioShack #275-226. I buy SPDT in bulk from PartsExpress: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-073

Glad u figured it out Aaron-San

Jae