5th Gen Clutch...WOW
5th Gen Clutch...WOW
thought i'd post this since i've been seeing a lot of clutch threads....
Just like to say that this setup is crazy! I just broke my clutch in and decided to try a 1/4 mile run on a deserted street. i didnt launch...but i gunned it till redline and then of course chirped to second which is usual for me. What really suprised me is that i chirped 2nd to 3rd. i was shocked. I never thought i would be able to chirp the max when its stock. Highly recommend this clutch setup for NA max's.
my setup is 5th Gen Pressure plate
5th Gen T/O Bearing
3rd Gen Disc
Just like to say that this setup is crazy! I just broke my clutch in and decided to try a 1/4 mile run on a deserted street. i didnt launch...but i gunned it till redline and then of course chirped to second which is usual for me. What really suprised me is that i chirped 2nd to 3rd. i was shocked. I never thought i would be able to chirp the max when its stock. Highly recommend this clutch setup for NA max's.
my setup is 5th Gen Pressure plate
5th Gen T/O Bearing
3rd Gen Disc
i don't chirp any gears....just wheel hop....damn grippy tires 
I would chirp all day 2nd and sometimes 3rd with my crappy all seasons on my sawblades...
now go to the track and see how you do.

I would chirp all day 2nd and sometimes 3rd with my crappy all seasons on my sawblades...
now go to the track and see how you do.
Originally Posted by Blackwind
3rd gen disc?
is that even possible?
is that even possible?
I doubt he would write "3rd" instead of "5th," so it's not a typo... but he wouldn't have listed the parts individually if it was just 5th gen everything.How and why'd you use a disc from the turd gen?
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
I doubt he would write "3rd" instead of "5th," so it's not a typo... but he wouldn't have listed the parts individually if it was just 5th gen everything.How and why'd you use a disc from the turd gen?
nah, the diamater is the same and I believe that the clutch is thicker. I could be wrong about that one though. I remember reading that somebody did a fifth gen clutch and throwout bearing They said it was a really good setup (and cheaper too).
yea i really need to go to a track....even though i've never been there before.
there was a thread awhile as JSMax mentioned that the 3rd gen disc is thicker so it will last longer. so no its not a typo. Its a really good setup so far hope others will enjoy as well.
there was a thread awhile as JSMax mentioned that the 3rd gen disc is thicker so it will last longer. so no its not a typo. Its a really good setup so far hope others will enjoy as well.
Cant Get Ryte-- i cant really comment on the holding difference because i havent tried the 5th gen disc
Bobafear--5th gen clutch is the way to go for no boost. ACT clutches put way too much stress on our trannie and our trannies are kinda on the weak side.
Bobafear--5th gen clutch is the way to go for no boost. ACT clutches put way too much stress on our trannie and our trannies are kinda on the weak side.
So is a brand new 5th gen clutch really any better than a brand new 4th gen clutch? I'm assuming you went from an old 4th gen clutch which may have been slipping. Or is there actually a difference in grabbing power?
5th gen clutch with 5th gen pp has better grip than the 4th by roughly 15%.
All you guys talkin about the 3rd gear chirps, the tires have a a major roll in that as well as the air pressure in them.
All you guys talkin about the 3rd gear chirps, the tires have a a major roll in that as well as the air pressure in them.
Originally Posted by kashman15
thought i'd post this since i've been seeing a lot of clutch threads....
Just like to say that this setup is crazy! I just broke my clutch in and decided to try a 1/4 mile run on a deserted street. i didnt launch...but i gunned it till redline and then of course chirped to second which is usual for me. What really suprised me is that i chirped 2nd to 3rd. i was shocked. I never thought i would be able to chirp the max when its stock. Highly recommend this clutch setup for NA max's.
my setup is 5th Gen Pressure plate
5th Gen T/O Bearing
3rd Gen Disc
Just like to say that this setup is crazy! I just broke my clutch in and decided to try a 1/4 mile run on a deserted street. i didnt launch...but i gunned it till redline and then of course chirped to second which is usual for me. What really suprised me is that i chirped 2nd to 3rd. i was shocked. I never thought i would be able to chirp the max when its stock. Highly recommend this clutch setup for NA max's.
my setup is 5th Gen Pressure plate
5th Gen T/O Bearing
3rd Gen Disc
i have an act now but when it goes out i think i'm gonna go the 5th gen route.
I just replaced my clutch with a Exedy clutch disc and pressure plate. IMO it works really really CRAPPY! When driving hard it's like you can fell the clutch disc springs compressing and then bouncing back. My original clutch disc had six springs and the exedy had four WTF. I think I will try the 5th gen set up!
96 Infinity I30
96 Infinity I30
to my understanding the 5th gen is the setup to have and has a better holding cap than the 4th gen. Above its even stated that its 15% more for the 5th.
So if the 3rd doesnt hold more than the fifth i would say go with that full setup.
So if the 3rd doesnt hold more than the fifth i would say go with that full setup.
Originally Posted by Batxel
You guys either need to work on shifting or get better tires. Chirpping is nothing to brag about. 

Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
i agree completely...if your chirping check your air pressure or you need alot more practice. If you can shift really fast then there should be no chirp at all. the chirp happens when the power is taken away from the car to rev up your rpms. then released back to the engine forcibly and hence the CHIRP. if you shift fast engough the engine has no time to rev up just a perfect switch. so if your chirpin....get practicin....not to worry i used to think that way also cause i chirped every shift however practice makes perfect....i can row those gears like a frekkin animal its great plus your track times will improve if only the slightest bit every 10th counts especially when its free. think about it the chirp means the tires have lost traction, no chip means the tires are still pulling you forward....give it a try,...

Nice, someone to expand on what I didn't feel like typing
Originally Posted by aznsap
how much did this setup cost and where did you purchase from?
i have an act now but when it goes out i think i'm gonna go the 5th gen route.
i have an act now but when it goes out i think i'm gonna go the 5th gen route.
It cost me $260 from the dealer....a little expensive i know but i had no time to wait becuase my old clutch went out on me.
The best source for OEM Nissan parts I've found is
http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/
Seems to be about 72% of Nissan list price, which is a damn good discount.
http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/
Seems to be about 72% of Nissan list price, which is a damn good discount.
I can see a few busted trannies from some of you guys in the future with your wheel hops if you all keep that up. Wheel hops are bad for your tranny, usually a sign of bad engine/tranny mounts. Take it easy until you've replaced those mounts. I have a 5th gen clutch, 4th gen p/p and t/o. I have chirped to 3rd and I don't make this a habit. Also my tires were worn down at that time. Someone is also making a traction bar for the 4th gens to eliminiate wheel hops but he hasn't produced any pics yet to stimulate any serious interest in his product. His thread is in the 4th gen forum somewhere.
in response to the 3rd gen disk....in general holding capacity is mostly related to pressure plate....the disk does have somethign to do with it but that comes more in to play with organic and carbon disks....i am pretty sure Nissan uses the same material for the majoraty of their Disks....maybe skylines and Nismo disks are made of different stuff....
Not necessarily, I had a partially slipping clutch when I first got my max and it was extremely easy to chirp.
What actually is happening is the forces of the wheels are overcoming the force of friction provided by the contact of the tire with the ground. The tire ends up slipping causing an audible noise (when the ground is dry) otherwise known as a chirp. The purchase of new clutch or “better” clutch ensures a better connection between the engine and transmission. If the original poster gains 20% increase in grip on the clutch and 20% increase in grip on the tires there would be no noticeable change other than the car responding faster and the word chirp would have never been used. Think of it when its raining if push the gas to hard the tires will start to slip [this is not a good thing].
What actually is happening is the forces of the wheels are overcoming the force of friction provided by the contact of the tire with the ground. The tire ends up slipping causing an audible noise (when the ground is dry) otherwise known as a chirp. The purchase of new clutch or “better” clutch ensures a better connection between the engine and transmission. If the original poster gains 20% increase in grip on the clutch and 20% increase in grip on the tires there would be no noticeable change other than the car responding faster and the word chirp would have never been used. Think of it when its raining if push the gas to hard the tires will start to slip [this is not a good thing].
In regards to the ACT causing too much stress on our trannies, I have had an ACT for over 70k miles. If you know how to drive a stick properly, it will be fine. Mine still runs like a champ. If you feel the need to pop your tires and chirp in between gears every chance you can, then ANY clutch will destroy your tranny. I'll take the ACT over stock any day. Grabs like a monkeys fist when I need it, and is fine for everyday driving after being broken in.
I have the fifth gen set up as well on my 95. When I was looking around at this set up someone brought up the 3rd gen disc as well. After researching more, either somone was using the wrong part number or else they are the same part number. From what I found the 3rd gen disc and the 5th gen disc are the same p/n.
Holding power has to do with both the disc (friction material) and the pressure plate (clamping force).
The 3rd gen clutch didn't have to hold as much power as the 4th gen clutch, but it had to hold that power in a heavier car. That's probably why the disc is thicker. The holding power of the 3rd gen disc won't really be any better than that of a 4th gen disc, although using it with a 5th gen PP will certainly improve things in that department.
And to answer the questions about comparisons with non OEM clutches... AFAIK, the 5.5 gen clutch parts -- i.e. for the 2002-2003 models with the VQ35 -- will also bolt right up. Those parts are made to hold over 250 lb-ft of torque in a heavier car with a much heavier flywheel. I'd be surprised if they couldn't manage 300 lb-ft in a 4th gen.
The 3rd gen clutch didn't have to hold as much power as the 4th gen clutch, but it had to hold that power in a heavier car. That's probably why the disc is thicker. The holding power of the 3rd gen disc won't really be any better than that of a 4th gen disc, although using it with a 5th gen PP will certainly improve things in that department.
And to answer the questions about comparisons with non OEM clutches... AFAIK, the 5.5 gen clutch parts -- i.e. for the 2002-2003 models with the VQ35 -- will also bolt right up. Those parts are made to hold over 250 lb-ft of torque in a heavier car with a much heavier flywheel. I'd be surprised if they couldn't manage 300 lb-ft in a 4th gen.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
AFAIK, the 5.5 gen clutch parts -- i.e. for the 2002-2003 models with the VQ35 -- will also bolt right up.
Originally Posted by Vquick
For that matter, the 6th gen clutch probably works too...any reason to believe otherwise?
LEFT - A34 clutch disk - unsprung hub 250mm dia.
Shock of engagement is handled by the dual mass flywheel.

Picture below is an A32B pressure plate on an A33B/A34/L31 flywheel. It is hard to see but the alignment pins are in slightly different locations. What this means is that a A33B/A34/L31 pressure plate is not a direct swap onto an A32B flywheel.
Originally Posted by NotNew!!NewSN!!
In regards to the ACT causing too much stress on our trannies, I have had an ACT for over 70k miles. If you know how to drive a stick properly, it will be fine. Mine still runs like a champ. If you feel the need to pop your tires and chirp in between gears every chance you can, then ANY clutch will destroy your tranny. I'll take the ACT over stock any day. Grabs like a monkeys fist when I need it, and is fine for everyday driving after being broken in.
wow, glad to hear that you've had the act for that many miles and i hope mine lasts that long.
it's been good so far, but damn my left leg gets so fatigued sometimes in this chicago traffic (and i'm in pretty good shape too). i've driven a 5spd max w/ stock clutch before and it's tons easier to push the clutch in.
Originally Posted by eng92
RIGHT - A32B - sprung hub 240 mm dia.
LEFT - A34 clutch disk - unsprung hub 250mm dia.
Shock of engagement is handled by the dual mass flywheel.
Picture below is an A32B pressure plate on an A33B/A34/L31 flywheel. It is hard to see but the alignment pins are in slightly different locations. What this means is that a A33B/A34/L31 pressure plate is not a direct swap onto an A32B flywheel.
LEFT - A34 clutch disk - unsprung hub 250mm dia.
Shock of engagement is handled by the dual mass flywheel.
Picture below is an A32B pressure plate on an A33B/A34/L31 flywheel. It is hard to see but the alignment pins are in slightly different locations. What this means is that a A33B/A34/L31 pressure plate is not a direct swap onto an A32B flywheel.
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