EVAP system problem code 0807 / Dealer is useless
01-18-2006, 05:07 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 44
EVAP system problem code 0807 / Dealer is useless
I have an 0807 code that is keeping me from passing smog. Anyone else have this code before? What did you do to solve it?
I replaced the big canister purge valve on top of the engine, didn't fix the problem, Woodland Hills Nissan diagnosed the problem as the canister purge cut valve and replaced that; the light came back on within a block. Took it back and they told me "your ECU is out". Yeah, right. They wanted $960 for a new ECU!!!! Got a deal on a used one for $50 and swapped ecu's - you guessed it, problem still exists.
Took the car to Downtowl LA motors today, they quoted me $1200 to "fix" the problem after their "diagnosis" indicated I needed a new canister, purge valve, bracket, hoses, cut valve (the same one WH Nissan already replaced), on and on....basically, to replace the entire system. I got into an argument with the service advisor that this was NOT a diagnosis, they just wanted to replace every component b/c they were too lazy to figure out what the problem really was.
SO....I bought the canister and the valve that mounts to it. I'll swap that out when I can. Hopefully that does it. Thing is, I can make the light go out, but as soon as I hit 50mph or so it comes back on.
I replaced the big canister purge valve on top of the engine, didn't fix the problem, Woodland Hills Nissan diagnosed the problem as the canister purge cut valve and replaced that; the light came back on within a block. Took it back and they told me "your ECU is out". Yeah, right. They wanted $960 for a new ECU!!!! Got a deal on a used one for $50 and swapped ecu's - you guessed it, problem still exists.
Took the car to Downtowl LA motors today, they quoted me $1200 to "fix" the problem after their "diagnosis" indicated I needed a new canister, purge valve, bracket, hoses, cut valve (the same one WH Nissan already replaced), on and on....basically, to replace the entire system. I got into an argument with the service advisor that this was NOT a diagnosis, they just wanted to replace every component b/c they were too lazy to figure out what the problem really was.
SO....I bought the canister and the valve that mounts to it. I'll swap that out when I can. Hopefully that does it. Thing is, I can make the light go out, but as soon as I hit 50mph or so it comes back on.
01-19-2006, 08:40 AM
#2
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 44
ARRGHH!
The valve the dealer sold me has a spout on it that doesn't match the original valve, and doesn't fit into the hole on the vapor canister they sold me. This after checking against my VIN.
Thumbs DOWN on Downtown LA motors!!
The valve the dealer sold me has a spout on it that doesn't match the original valve, and doesn't fit into the hole on the vapor canister they sold me. This after checking against my VIN.
Thumbs DOWN on Downtown LA motors!!
01-19-2006, 08:51 AM
#3
Don't drive > 50mph until you pass smog 
You have good parts guys and bad parts guys... the majority fall into the latter category. That's why I buy EVERYTHING online
And the cheaper prices are a bonus.
You have good parts guys and bad parts guys... the majority fall into the latter category. That's why I buy EVERYTHING online
And the cheaper prices are a bonus.
01-19-2006, 01:10 PM
#4
ok
OKOKOK..
On my sig you will see a link to just a few diagrams BUT search all my posts and maybe youll find the answer your looking for..
to say the least all the EVAP crap shouldnt need to be replaced.
Get new small rubber tubbing for everything and cut to PROPER size, one at a time, and replace with new tubing.
ALSO: you can spray=-=- WD40 into that canister if need be and it will work to settle the carbon deposits.
Believe me man... ive been up and down both sides of EVAP canister control purge valve selonoids and everything...
Read these threads....I have so many its ridiculious.
On my sig you will see a link to just a few diagrams BUT search all my posts and maybe youll find the answer your looking for..
to say the least all the EVAP crap shouldnt need to be replaced.
Get new small rubber tubbing for everything and cut to PROPER size, one at a time, and replace with new tubing.
ALSO: you can spray=-=- WD40 into that canister if need be and it will work to settle the carbon deposits.
Believe me man... ive been up and down both sides of EVAP canister control purge valve selonoids and everything...
Read these threads....I have so many its ridiculious.
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