brake upgrade sugg???
#1
brake upgrade sugg???
i'm thinking of upgrading my brakes but im kind of on a budget, does anyone have a sugg the max is just a daily driver however the FL drivers suck out here and i go from 80 to like 50 in a split second on the highway i once had to vere into the shoulder to slow down to prevent hitting the guy in frotn of me and i wans't tailgaiting him was like 15 feet behind and he jsut jammed on his brakesbut anyways this happens too mucbh out here were i need to stop from 80 to nothing in a split second
anyone have a sugg?? i was think ebc pads, do pads really make a diff
and what is the diff btw crossed drilled and slotted
and is it necc to get them both crossed drilled and slotted plus does any brand matter
if anyone has this setup give me ur opp i think i can only afford to upgradfe the front i have new hawk pads i think on the rear??
any sugg would help b/c i want a noticable diff in stopping without paying a fortune
anyone have a sugg?? i was think ebc pads, do pads really make a diff
and what is the diff btw crossed drilled and slotted
and is it necc to get them both crossed drilled and slotted plus does any brand matter
if anyone has this setup give me ur opp i think i can only afford to upgradfe the front i have new hawk pads i think on the rear??
any sugg would help b/c i want a noticable diff in stopping without paying a fortune
#2
Being behind 15 ft at 80mph is tailgating...
FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second
So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.
You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.
Enjoy and be safe.
FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second
So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.
You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.
Enjoy and be safe.
#3
Originally Posted by njmodi
Being behind 15 ft at 80mph is tailgating...
FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second
So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.
You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.
Enjoy and be safe.
FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second
So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.
You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.
Enjoy and be safe.
so again any sugg on what brake upgrades i can do to help in that type of emergency situation??
#4
Originally Posted by njmodi
Being behind 15 ft at 80mph is tailgating...
FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second
So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.
You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.
Enjoy and be safe.
FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second
So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.
You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.
Enjoy and be safe.
I agree with that 100% thats damn close at 80mph
#5
Originally Posted by Ricksi30
I agree with that 100% thats damn close at 80mph
all i want is some opp on brake upgrades by people who have them
#6
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
At 80 MPH you should be 8 car lenghts behind the vehicle in front of you.
80 to 50 shouldn't be a problem with a good set of OEM brakes.
A good OEM replacment pad is the Wagner Quiet Stop Ceramic.
Excellent stopping power, good initial bite when cold, very little fad when their hot, lifetime warranty and the best part................ little to no brake dust.
A daily driver doesn't need x-drilled or slotted rotors.
Try driving on NY or NJ highways. Florida, please.... you have no idea.
80 to 50 shouldn't be a problem with a good set of OEM brakes.
A good OEM replacment pad is the Wagner Quiet Stop Ceramic.
Excellent stopping power, good initial bite when cold, very little fad when their hot, lifetime warranty and the best part................ little to no brake dust.
A daily driver doesn't need x-drilled or slotted rotors.
Try driving on NY or NJ highways. Florida, please.... you have no idea.
#8
So back to brakes post, I would recommend the conversion of the Z32 brakes. Heard so many good things about them so you should try them out. I won't say anything about the tailgating this. I'm prob closer to the person infront of me going 90.
#9
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
At 80 MPH you should be 8 car lenghts behind the vehicle in front of you.
80 to 50 shouldn't be a problem with a good set of OEM brakes.
A good OEM replacment pad is the Wagner Quiet Stop Ceramic.
Excellent stopping power, good initial bite when cold, very little fad when their hot, lifetime warranty and the best part................ little to no brake dust.
A daily driver doesn't need x-drilled or slotted rotors.
Try driving on NY or NJ highways. Florida, please....
80 to 50 shouldn't be a problem with a good set of OEM brakes.
A good OEM replacment pad is the Wagner Quiet Stop Ceramic.
Excellent stopping power, good initial bite when cold, very little fad when their hot, lifetime warranty and the best part................ little to no brake dust.
A daily driver doesn't need x-drilled or slotted rotors.
Try driving on NY or NJ highways. Florida, please....
p.s thanks for the brake sugg.
#10
Originally Posted by darklegend06
So back to brakes post, I would recommend the conversion of the Z32 brakes. Heard so many good things about them so you should try them out. I won't say anything about the tailgating this. I'm prob closer to the person infront of me going 90.
#11
Originally Posted by achebee4you
would that be cheaper i am on a budget just wondering what pads a rotors to get??
#13
Originally Posted by achebee4you
It b/c all the NYC and NJ people are moving here and thats why tampa highways have becomne more dangerous, bc instead of going like 65 on the BQE or Van wick where its like 45mhz its now 70 here and people are going 85 thining their on the BQE in NYC, and therefore its impossible to remain 8 car lenghts back bc someone will cut u off as u can see it impossible to keep 8 car lenthgs back @ 80mhz ask anyone from tampa
p.s thanks for the brake sugg.
p.s thanks for the brake sugg.
#15
Since your on a budget shop around, see what's out their. I understand you want something in the middle. I just bought Hawk HPS pads and Power Slot rotors Cryo treated. Haven't put them on yet but, all in all it totalled to alittle under $500.
#16
Originally Posted by Trajiksmax
Since your on a budget shop around, see what's out their. I understand you want something in the middle. I just bought Hawk HPS pads and Power Slot rotors Cryo treated. Haven't put them on yet but, all in all it totalled to alittle under $500.
#18
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
stillen bbk 13.1", brembo bbk 12.9", and wilwood bbk 12.6"? 13".. any of those kits will stop you in a jiffy..
i did that to my hobby car an integra, that stops on a dime, however the max is just a daily driver
#22
sorry had a brain fart....for some wierd reason i thought that 04s were still like 5th gens....but now i remember that 03 is when they started using the 3.5 ...and it was the last year of the 5th gen...its ones of those days
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
When I think of upgrade, I think of better calipers and rotors.. Not OEM repalcement pads and rotors.
Listen to 1FSTMAX, he know's his shiet. I am saving up for the baller 13.1" kit with AP racing parts. $2500+ is not cheap.
#26
Originally Posted by scopium
Changing pads is not an upgrade, it's maintenance!
Listen to 1FSTMAX, he know's his shiet. I am saving up for the baller 13.1" kit with AP racing parts. $2500+ is not cheap.
Listen to 1FSTMAX, he know's his shiet. I am saving up for the baller 13.1" kit with AP racing parts. $2500+ is not cheap.
u could spend like 600 and get 4 pot 300zx calipers with 13" cobras from
jeff92se........and various pads suchs as HAWK HPS are an upgrade from OEM or any 20 dollar autozone pad
#27
15 ft isn't enough............you are still too close! And slow down!!! You are right, florida drivers suck...look at you. And using the "florida driving culture" is not an excuse. They drive worse in NY. Go check your local DMV handbook and check on the distance that you have to maintain between you and the driver ahead of you. I bet the cliche "florida driving clulture" isn't even in it.
Originally Posted by achebee4you
i'm thinking of upgrading my brakes but im kind of on a budget, does anyone have a sugg the max is just a daily driver however the FL drivers suck out here and i go from 80 to like 50 in a split second on the highway i once had to vere into the shoulder to slow down to prevent hitting the guy in frotn of me and i wans't tailgaiting him was like 15 feet behind and he jsut jammed on his brakesbut anyways this happens too mucbh out here were i need to stop from 80 to nothing in a split second
anyone have a sugg?? i was think ebc pads, do pads really make a diff
and what is the diff btw crossed drilled and slotted
and is it necc to get them both crossed drilled and slotted plus does any brand matter
if anyone has this setup give me ur opp i think i can only afford to upgradfe the front i have new hawk pads i think on the rear??
any sugg would help b/c i want a noticable diff in stopping without paying a fortune
anyone have a sugg?? i was think ebc pads, do pads really make a diff
and what is the diff btw crossed drilled and slotted
and is it necc to get them both crossed drilled and slotted plus does any brand matter
if anyone has this setup give me ur opp i think i can only afford to upgradfe the front i have new hawk pads i think on the rear??
any sugg would help b/c i want a noticable diff in stopping without paying a fortune
#29
offically it is a 2 sec gap betweeen cars (not distance) as speed increases it take more distance so if you are following someone just pick a stationary object (phone pole, fence pole, street sign, what ever) and when their back bumper gets to that object just count a thousand 1, a thousand 2 and your front bumper should be at that same object. any closer than that is toooooo close!
#30
Originally Posted by DR-Max
15 ft isn't enough............you are still too close! And slow down!!! You are right, florida drivers suck...look at you. And using the "florida driving culture" is not an excuse. They drive worse in NY. Go check your local DMV handbook and check on the distance that you have to maintain between you and the driver ahead of you. I bet the cliche "florida driving clulture" isn't even in it.
are u kidding me ur still on this...
#33
Excuse my ignorance if this is a newbie question, but doesn't changing to a bigger caliper affect the brake booster and the pressure it provides within the hydraulic lines to operate the caliper pistons? Would this decrease the life of the brake booster?
#34
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Excuse my ignorance if this is a newbie question, but doesn't changing to a bigger caliper affect the brake booster and the pressure it provides within the hydraulic lines to operate the caliper pistons? Would this decrease the life of the brake booster?
#35
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Excuse my ignorance if this is a newbie question, but doesn't changing to a bigger caliper affect the brake booster and the pressure it provides within the hydraulic lines to operate the caliper pistons? Would this decrease the life of the brake booster?
But then again maybe I just think too much...
#36
Originally Posted by MadMaxSE-L
Wouldn't only moving to a larger caliper(i.e. more volume required to move larger piston & fill larger piston bore) effectively decrease pressure(i.e. clamping force) at the caliper since you have not added any volume capacity to the mastercylinder or increased pressure via the booster?
As for OEM fitment brakes, here's the breakdown of popular street pads:
EBC Greenstuff > OEM
PBR/Axxis Ultimate > EBC Greenstuff
Hawk HPS > PBR/Axxis Ultimate
Ferodo DS2500 > Hawk HPS
And of course dust and cost go up with each step.
As for rotors, people say slotted or cross-drilled rotors help prevent excess heat buildup and protect against warpage. That's true, but trust me... you would need some BIG brake system upgrades on your Max before you'd ever have to worry about that. Plus, either one will eat pads faster. That makes cross-drilled rotors pretty much useless because all they will do in the end is cut down your surface area, which might hurt your braking. Slotted rotors might still be worth it to you, though, because the slots can catch dirt and grime instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and start scoring the rotors. That's why I have Brembo slotted rotors -- my previous rotors were Brembo blanks, and they were perfectly fine, but they got scored to the point that they were acting strangely, and I really didn't feel like going through that again.
Whatever you do, DEFINITELY get stainless steel lines. If you really have to cheap out and get a less expensive brand then go ahead, but just get them. No brake upgrade is really worth it without them.
IMO, the best bang-for-the-buck combo would be Brembo blank rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and stainless steel lines. Make sure to change your brake fluid as well (get synthetic DOT4 or something). The whole kit 'n kaboodle should cost you under $400. If you can, upgrade to slotted front rotors.
#37
Originally Posted by MadMaxSE-L
Wouldn't only moving to a larger caliper(i.e. more volume required to move larger piston & fill larger piston bore) effectively decrease pressure(i.e. clamping force) at the caliper since you have not added any volume capacity to the mastercylinder or increased pressure via the booster?
But then again maybe I just think too much...
But then again maybe I just think too much...
#38
listen guy, the integra stops on a dime cause 1 - you have extensive brake work done to it and 2. it weighs what, 2600lbs?
the maxima weighs at least 3000, plus the 100lbs of stereo in the trunk, plus u... if you ever want to do a physics project, use ur maxima.
simple as this, without major brake upgrades, its just not goin to stop the way youd like it to. Especially if in the back of ur brain ur thinkin about ur integra
But since you wanna go cheap i'd suggest a set of steel braided brake lines, and a nice set of hawk front pads. that should run u no more than $200 beans.
the maxima weighs at least 3000, plus the 100lbs of stereo in the trunk, plus u... if you ever want to do a physics project, use ur maxima.
simple as this, without major brake upgrades, its just not goin to stop the way youd like it to. Especially if in the back of ur brain ur thinkin about ur integra
But since you wanna go cheap i'd suggest a set of steel braided brake lines, and a nice set of hawk front pads. that should run u no more than $200 beans.
#39
thanks finally a repsonse that i can value, everyone this is the type of info i was look for thanks again man
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Right you are. The only benefits are larger contact area between the pads and the rotors, and MUCH less fade.
As for OEM fitment brakes, here's the breakdown of popular street pads:
EBC Greenstuff > OEM
PBR/Axxis Ultimate > EBC Greenstuff
Hawk HPS > PBR/Axxis Ultimate
Ferodo DS2500 > Hawk HPS
And of course dust and cost go up with each step.
As for rotors, people say slotted or cross-drilled rotors help prevent excess heat buildup and protect against warpage. That's true, but trust me... you would need some BIG brake system upgrades on your Max before you'd ever have to worry about that. Plus, either one will eat pads faster. That makes cross-drilled rotors pretty much useless because all they will do in the end is cut down your surface area, which might hurt your braking. Slotted rotors might still be worth it to you, though, because the slots can catch dirt and grime instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and start scoring the rotors. That's why I have Brembo slotted rotors -- my previous rotors were Brembo blanks, and they were perfectly fine, but they got scored to the point that they were acting strangely, and I really didn't feel like going through that again.
Whatever you do, DEFINITELY get stainless steel lines. If you really have to cheap out and get a less expensive brand then go ahead, but just get them. No brake upgrade is really worth it without them.
IMO, the best bang-for-the-buck combo would be Brembo blank rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and stainless steel lines. Make sure to change your brake fluid as well (get synthetic DOT4 or something). The whole kit 'n kaboodle should cost you under $400. If you can, upgrade to slotted front rotors.
As for OEM fitment brakes, here's the breakdown of popular street pads:
EBC Greenstuff > OEM
PBR/Axxis Ultimate > EBC Greenstuff
Hawk HPS > PBR/Axxis Ultimate
Ferodo DS2500 > Hawk HPS
And of course dust and cost go up with each step.
As for rotors, people say slotted or cross-drilled rotors help prevent excess heat buildup and protect against warpage. That's true, but trust me... you would need some BIG brake system upgrades on your Max before you'd ever have to worry about that. Plus, either one will eat pads faster. That makes cross-drilled rotors pretty much useless because all they will do in the end is cut down your surface area, which might hurt your braking. Slotted rotors might still be worth it to you, though, because the slots can catch dirt and grime instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and start scoring the rotors. That's why I have Brembo slotted rotors -- my previous rotors were Brembo blanks, and they were perfectly fine, but they got scored to the point that they were acting strangely, and I really didn't feel like going through that again.
Whatever you do, DEFINITELY get stainless steel lines. If you really have to cheap out and get a less expensive brand then go ahead, but just get them. No brake upgrade is really worth it without them.
IMO, the best bang-for-the-buck combo would be Brembo blank rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and stainless steel lines. Make sure to change your brake fluid as well (get synthetic DOT4 or something). The whole kit 'n kaboodle should cost you under $400. If you can, upgrade to slotted front rotors.
#40
i understand the teg stops better also to clarify the max doesn't have anything in the trunk but the donut and jack, the teg is fo the track though i needed a good brake upgrade that is auto x worthy, i just want better stopping power for fast agg daily driving at a budget, ur sugg also may work thanks
Originally Posted by MaximaEvolution
listen guy, the integra stops on a dime cause 1 - you have extensive brake work done to it and 2. it weighs what, 2600lbs?
the maxima weighs at least 3000, plus the 100lbs of stereo in the trunk, plus u... if you ever want to do a physics project, use ur maxima.
simple as this, without major brake upgrades, its just not goin to stop the way youd like it to. Especially if in the back of ur brain ur thinkin about ur integra
But since you wanna go cheap i'd suggest a set of steel braided brake lines, and a nice set of hawk front pads. that should run u no more than $200 beans.
the maxima weighs at least 3000, plus the 100lbs of stereo in the trunk, plus u... if you ever want to do a physics project, use ur maxima.
simple as this, without major brake upgrades, its just not goin to stop the way youd like it to. Especially if in the back of ur brain ur thinkin about ur integra
But since you wanna go cheap i'd suggest a set of steel braided brake lines, and a nice set of hawk front pads. that should run u no more than $200 beans.