Starter problems
Starter problems
I've been having problems with starting my car for several weeks now. Upon turning the ignition key it would make a loud grinding noise and will not start. After 1-4 tries the car does start and runs w/o any problems. Most of the time this occurs on cold starts when the vehicle has been parked overnight or prolonged periods of time (more than 5 hrs).
I assumed that this was related to the grease being dried out inside the starter so I took it apart and regreased the planetary gear set only
(shown in this pic). After re-installing the starter the engine would not turn over, I could hear the starter motor spinning but it wouldn't crank. So I took the starter apart again thinking that I messed something up and after about 4 more cranks it finally started.
I still have the same problem as before.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I assumed that this was related to the grease being dried out inside the starter so I took it apart and regreased the planetary gear set only
(shown in this pic). After re-installing the starter the engine would not turn over, I could hear the starter motor spinning but it wouldn't crank. So I took the starter apart again thinking that I messed something up and after about 4 more cranks it finally started. I still have the same problem as before.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I'm having the same problem...if you hear the starter "spinning" (like a whurring sound), then the actual starter motor is fine but the solenoid part of it is not pushing the gear into the flywheel. I'm trying to decide whether to go OEM or local lifetime replacement now.
Originally Posted by ScottV
I'm having the same problem...if you hear the starter "spinning" (like a whurring sound), then the actual starter motor is fine but the solenoid part of it is not pushing the gear into the flywheel. I'm trying to decide whether to go OEM or local lifetime replacement now.
I took my starter apart tonight and the shaft where the starter gear slides up and down was really gummy/dry so it wasnt moving very smoothly. Everything else looked good, so I regreased that shaft and the other moving pieces and put it back together. I'll just activate the solenoid and see how strong it kicks out the starting gear and then throw it back on-hopefully that will fix it.
Wow this is great, I came here tonight to post a question about this exact thing.
I read about the starter and solenoid in the Haynes manual and it doesn't say anything about the solenoid pushing the gear into place, just that the solenoid turns on the starter. I thought, what's the point of that?
So is the verdict to get a new solenoid and regrease the starter gearing, or just replace the entire starter assembly?
I read about the starter and solenoid in the Haynes manual and it doesn't say anything about the solenoid pushing the gear into place, just that the solenoid turns on the starter. I thought, what's the point of that?
So is the verdict to get a new solenoid and regrease the starter gearing, or just replace the entire starter assembly?
i just replaced mine last week. i got it at advance auto for 129.99. there was a 60 dollar core charge that you get back when you bring back the old one. the oem one has 8 teeth where as the new one has 11. it starts so much faster. deffinatly get a new one
Same issue here. 97SE with 138K miles. Normally it made noise when starting. Now it will make a slight whirring noise and not start. Took 4 tries this AM. NOW a few questions.
I have a herniated disc in my lower back. Not much mobility but decent pain. Should I have a shop do this or how long will I be under a jacked up car to replace it? I hate to pay to do labor on cars, homes, etc.
Also, I now have a Service Engine Soon light from this AM. Not sure if it was because I had a hard time starting or what. A few years back a friend helped me t-shoot my knock sensor with the codes. Can someone list the steps/tools to check the codes using the CPU and screw trick. I know mine can do it but would rather know the exact steps to find out what my car is telling me.
Thanks: e3
I have a herniated disc in my lower back. Not much mobility but decent pain. Should I have a shop do this or how long will I be under a jacked up car to replace it? I hate to pay to do labor on cars, homes, etc.
Also, I now have a Service Engine Soon light from this AM. Not sure if it was because I had a hard time starting or what. A few years back a friend helped me t-shoot my knock sensor with the codes. Can someone list the steps/tools to check the codes using the CPU and screw trick. I know mine can do it but would rather know the exact steps to find out what my car is telling me.
Thanks: e3
Well only because you are giving me a guilt trip for contemplating a flame will I help willingly.
Pull the Trouble Codes manually here
To change your starter, if you have a stock intake, you will have to remove it which will a total of 5 minutes. Then you can reach the starter which is secured by 2 bolts I believe. Swap the starter and done.
How to Change your starter here
Good luck.
Pull the Trouble Codes manually here
To change your starter, if you have a stock intake, you will have to remove it which will a total of 5 minutes. Then you can reach the starter which is secured by 2 bolts I believe. Swap the starter and done.
How to Change your starter here
Good luck.
Originally Posted by Papa Squat
i just replaced mine last week. i got it at advance auto for 129.99. there was a 60 dollar core charge that you get back when you bring back the old one. the oem one has 8 teeth where as the new one has 11. it starts so much faster. deffinatly get a new one
I'm with this guy...get the newer one with 11 teeth, it cranks much faster!
Originally Posted by Papa Squat
i just replaced mine last week. i got it at advance auto for 129.99. there was a 60 dollar core charge that you get back when you bring back the old one. the oem one has 8 teeth where as the new one has 11. it starts so much faster. deffinatly get a new one
how do you guys feel about the remanufactured starters from auto zone?
Originally Posted by Crooper_Hedder
Wow this is great, I came here tonight to post a question about this exact thing.
I read about the starter and solenoid in the Haynes manual and it doesn't say anything about the solenoid pushing the gear into place, just that the solenoid turns on the starter. I thought, what's the point of that?
So is the verdict to get a new solenoid and regrease the starter gearing, or just replace the entire starter assembly?
I read about the starter and solenoid in the Haynes manual and it doesn't say anything about the solenoid pushing the gear into place, just that the solenoid turns on the starter. I thought, what's the point of that?
So is the verdict to get a new solenoid and regrease the starter gearing, or just replace the entire starter assembly?
In my case, I'll probably just replace the solenoid because it's $40-the starter motor itself sounded fine.
Originally Posted by polvoronn
how do you guys feel about the remanufactured starters from auto zone?
Originally Posted by ScottV
I've been researching this and the general consensus is to stay away from Autozone for rebuilt parts. I hear good things about CarQuest, NAPA, and Advance Auto so that's where I'm going.
Originally Posted by ScottV
The solenoid on the starter serves two purposes:it acts as a relay for the starter (switches higher current using lower current) AND pulls a lever which then causes the starter gear to move up a shaft and into the flywheel. If you hear the starter spinning (a whirring electric motor sound), then the starter is turning just not being pushed into the flywheel (to start the car).
In my case, I'll probably just replace the solenoid because it's $40-the starter motor itself sounded fine.
In my case, I'll probably just replace the solenoid because it's $40-the starter motor itself sounded fine.
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