long story short. i got me HID's and after a lot of trial and error, the person who sold me the kit and I concluded that my stock harness doesnt give enough "JUICE" to the ballast to turn on the lights. the stock lights work just fine, the hid's dont turn on when hooked up to the stock harness but they work when hooked up to the battery. what i was told is that i have two options

1)up the headlight fuse from 15 amp to 30
2) completly redo the stock harness

i was gonna try uppin the fuse but will i run into any problems? melting the harness or anything. how hard is it to redo the harness and where would i get the parts? the info im seekin wasnt in faq's how-to's and owners manual. i couldnt find anything on google either. some help would be apreciated.

 

Don't up the fuse capacity, the amount of power you can run is really determined by the wire size - which is pretty damn small, all the way from the headlights up to the headlight switch.

Hook up a relay using the stock headlight + as a trigger, and feed the HID ballasts with the battery. Search around for the 9007 conversion and 'upgraded' harness, and you can see exactly what I mean, same thing there.

 

i read that, i didnt understand it that well. why is my stock harness acting this way anyways

 

Have you been going through fuses when trying it with the HIDs? What kind of 'special' wiring did you have to do to hook the ballasts up to the stock wiring?

 

The person you purchased them from doesn't know how electrical current flows.

Your stock harness will carry more then enough "juice" to turn your HID's on.
Your new HID setup will pull exactly what it needs, if it needs more then your car's wiring will carry, your fues will blow. Your fuse isn't blowing, so nothing is overloaded.

In fact, I think your new setup is wired up wrong which is the real reason why they aren't turning on.

HID's actually use LESS current then conventional filiment bulbs. The initial turn on is only a brief pull, and again, if that pull was more then your cars wiring could handle, you'd simply blow the fuse.

 

It's almost always a bad isea to change the fuse size. You're asking for additional problems...

 

even though njmaxseltd has just explained why your problem probably isn't dealing with fuses, I'll just add my experience.

My friend drives a Mazda 626, and his tail light fuse kept blowing, and he kept getting pulled over for a lack of rear lights. He put a 30 amp fuse in a 15 amp rated spot, which kept the rear lights lit, and it ended up costing him $1600 for his mechanic to replace the wiring hardness he fried.

 

we tried everything possible. 2 ballasts 2 bulbs and 2 stock harnesses. nothing work, none of the combos. the only time the HID's worked was when we pluged them right into the battery. any idea why they dont work through the harness?

 

anyone ??????

 

Upping the fuse amperage is bad Mum Kay.

 

VIP which kit did you get? I got the 8k HID kit from XBrite and they were an easy plug ang play.

 

6k from xbrite. my 12k fogs work, we installed 6k on my friends too on that works. its just that my heads dont work

 

Sounds like a wiring issue like someone mentioned above.
If the ballasts were drawing too much current at startup
your headlight fuses would've blown.
You sure the polarity on the ballasts are wired correctly to the harness?

Either way I would get a new harness with a relay drawing power
from the battery. That's the safest way.

 

and as for "i was gonna try uppin the fuse but will i run into any problems? melting the harness or anything. how hard is it to redo the harness and where would i get the parts?"

Dear VIP Maxima,
Let me tell you a little true story. I once decided to stand behind the counter of my friend's motorcycle emporium to see if the customers really were as stupid as he said. Soon a young feller came in:
"I need a new battery"
Me: "Really?"
Cust: "Yerss. It started when I crashed at the traffic lights."
Me: "Oh. And then?"
Cust: "The indicator was all smashed in. And the bike wouldn't start, the main fuse was blown."
Me: "So what did you do?"
Cust: "I got some Bacofoil (ally cooking foil) and crumpled a piece up and put it in the fuse holder."
Me: "And then?"
Cust: "A whole load of smoke came up from under the petrol tank. And then the battery exploded."

Dear VIP Maxima, if the above story fails to answer your question, then frankly, sir, you should not be in charge of a motor conveyance unless a man walks in front of you with a red flag to warn passers-by.

 

First thing I would do is make sure you have a local ground for each light to a nice close location to the ballast....shorter the wire less resistance which equals less losses. The ballast itself is going to suck up a lot of current from your wiring harness, the ballast then transfers the high current into high voltage...those ballasts are nice ole buck/boost converters (P=IV). So the initial impedance of the electrical arc is going to need some strong current to get the circuit moving in nominal impedance. So try to do a upgraded wiring harness from the battery with thicker wires to reduce impedance resistance and give you less power losses through heat...aka burning wire. I dont reccomend kits that have grounds that will tap back into the battery because those induce emf loops that will give you some nice e&m fields in your front end electrical...may not be imperative for the DC lights but for your ECU, better safe than sorry. Theirs my electrical rant, and dont change the fuse!