Tfvesquire

iTrader: (2)

Hello again:

I have been driving my 98 SE with not one single CEL until this past month. Then, out of the blue, I get the light and check for codes. I pull up 1440 and 1448, which indicates a small leak in the evap control system. After doing some research and reading through the FSM, I think I have the problem pin pointed to the EVAP canister vent control valve, which is mounted on the actual canister.

At first, I checked to make sure the gas cap was fully tightened down and then reset the ECM. Light went away until about a week later. Pulled it again and got the same two codes. Then I figured the gas cap may be old and not sealing properly, so I purchased a new one, but just got the codes again yesterday. I even looked underneath the car to make sure there were no cracked hoses or insect nests around the canister. Everything looked fine and untouched.

According to the FSM, the DTC 1448 indicates the EVAP canister vent control valve is somehow stuck open. This could be caused by corrosion on the valve or simply a faulty valve sensor. But, then the FSM goes to state that:

"When the vent is closed, under normal purge conditions, the (system) is depressurized and allows the EVAP Control System (small leak) diagnosis."

I did notice that when I went to add some gas yesterday, the gas cap did not give me the little "piisstt" soda can pressure release like it normally did. If the vent is stuck open, you would think that the system would not get purged properly and there would be more pressure built up. Right?

Anyway, has anyone tried to clean out this valve and lubricate the plunger assembly? Does the sensor just die at some point because it is stuck in one position or can it be made to work again once the valve gets unstuck and the corrosion is minimal? It says to also try and remove the entire canister and turn it on its side to see if any water comes out of the valve and then weigh the whole canister and valve together. I assume water would get in there due to condensation in the fuel tank, because I have never had the rear of the vehicle submerged in any deep water. Has anyone had to replace the water separator at any point in their maintenance?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get the emissions system functioning properly and get rid of my pesky CEL.

Any helpful info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Ted, Chicago

Tfvesquire

iTrader: (2)

Well, I was able to remove the entire canister and vent control valve as a unit, but was not able to successfully remove the two bolts holding the valve on. One came out fine, but the other was stuck and after soaking it with PB Blaster the nut that is secured to the canister housing broke free and started to turn with the bolt. I finally got the bolt out, but basically ruined the canister as result. I thought I would be able to secure the mounting nut back in the housing with some JB Weld, but I am not sure how much pressure the canister makes and whether I would end up with another slow leak. The only good news is that there was no water/moisture in the canister.

I found a replacement canister and valve from a fellow member and will be installing the same hopefully this wknd. Does anyone know what I can use on the new vent valve to keep the valve from getting corrosion? I assume I could put some black rtv gasket sealer on the o-ring, but can I spray something like WD-40 or PB Blaster in the inside of the valve opening to prolong its life?

Any imput would be great.

Ted, Chicago