For those who changed their knock sensor themselves?
For those who changed their knock sensor themselves?
I just bought my new knock sensor, but when I went to put it on I found it impossible to get at the knock sensor in the engine. How the hell did you do it? What tools did you use? What size wrench did you use for the bolt holding in the knock sensor?
I dont have big hands by any means but I found it impossible to get to.
I dont have big hands by any means but I found it impossible to get to.
I think it's 12mm bolt. I used a couple extensions and two universal joint/ flexy extensions. Set a flashlight on the engine so I could see in there and used a magnetic pickup tool to guide the socket in there. It is easy to get out, much more difficult to get back in. There is a couple variations that you will find when searching for a writeup.
i found that the universal joint was useless..for me anyway
I got big hands so i opted to remove the resonator (accordion looking thing connected to TB) to make room. After that the hardest part was breaking the nut loose (12mm or 14mm). I suggest looking for a long wrench so you can get some leverage on that nut. Either way expect to cut your hand(s).
Which reminds me... it was easier to fit in my left hand than it was my right.
I got big hands so i opted to remove the resonator (accordion looking thing connected to TB) to make room. After that the hardest part was breaking the nut loose (12mm or 14mm). I suggest looking for a long wrench so you can get some leverage on that nut. Either way expect to cut your hand(s).
Which reminds me... it was easier to fit in my left hand than it was my right.
I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm

I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm

I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.
Originally Posted by MDeezy
I believe I hold the org record of 6minutes to change a KS. That was my first time too 

Originally Posted by ti2tmax
I think it's 12mm bolt. I used a couple extensions and two universal joint/ flexy extensions. Set a flashlight on the engine so I could see in there and used a magnetic pickup tool to guide the socket in there. It is easy to get out, much more difficult to get back in. There is a couple variations that you will find when searching for a writeup.
Yep - I did the same thing. It shouldn't be too tight and you don't want it to be to tight.. Might crack it.
Once it was loose I was able to wedge my hand in there and get it. Scrapes you up, but oh well. Better than paying those assmunchers 400 bucks or whatever.
I hope I won't need to change my knock sensor. Good job and good luck to those that are going to attempt it.
To those that changed it, have you seen any performance or any changes to the car?
To those that changed it, have you seen any performance or any changes to the car?
Originally Posted by darklegend06
I hope I won't need to change my knock sensor. Good job and good luck to those that are going to attempt it.
To those that changed it, have you seen any performance or any changes to the car?
To those that changed it, have you seen any performance or any changes to the car?
It's noticeable but not drastic. When the KS is dead and the engine is in that "safe mode" or whatever, you don't get quite as much performance or gas mileage. Hardly life-changing though.
Yeah i found the best way to change it is to use a 1/2" Drive Ratchet (For torque), 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, (2) 3/8" x 6" extensions, a 3/8 universal joint, and a 12mm socket.
I found its easier with a good swivel joint.. not one of the cheapies.. they get too loose. But it only took me 10 minutes my first time. Getting it out was harder than installing it for me. But I aligned the bolt using the wire harness then i stuck my left hand down and threaded it in.
Dave
I found its easier with a good swivel joint.. not one of the cheapies.. they get too loose. But it only took me 10 minutes my first time. Getting it out was harder than installing it for me. But I aligned the bolt using the wire harness then i stuck my left hand down and threaded it in.
Dave
getting your hand in there really depends on A) how big your hand is and B) wether you have a cali spec or not. If you have the cali spec, I don't think it's possible to get your hand in there at all. I could have if my arm bent in four places, but that wasn't gonna happen!
I actually prefer to take off the upper and lower IM...it's relatively easy to do and you don't end up with hamburger hands afterward.
ok i did it last night. tools i used were a 12mm universal joint, an extension and ratchet. I removed the air intake from the throttle body and moved it aside for more room, was done in 15 minutes including time to take off air intake. I got once scrape on my hand but no blood so its all good.
The hardest part was getting the bolt back in the right spot, definately get the universal joint and dont pay a mechanic to do this, its easy!
I can squeel the tires again!!
The hardest part was getting the bolt back in the right spot, definately get the universal joint and dont pay a mechanic to do this, its easy!
I can squeel the tires again!!
yeah i just bought my new KS about 3 weeks ago, and didnt have much luck with it the first time. so this weekend i am going to make another attempt at it and hopefully will get it right this time!
Originally Posted by THT
I actually prefer to take off the upper and lower IM...it's relatively easy to do and you don't end up with hamburger hands afterward.
That would be my method of choice as well. Not only to keep your hands from being cut/scraped up, but so you can torque down the knock sensor properly so it won't be to too sensitive, or not sensitive enough.
Originally Posted by killerVQ30DE
I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm

I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.

1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm

I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.

Originally Posted by jos
$50? Where?
this is the canadian price, for some reason it is $125 in the us section of the site
Originally Posted by killerVQ30DE
I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm

I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.

1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm

I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.

The universal joint makes this real easy. I didnt have a magnet so i put a small piece of tape to hold the bolt and ks together while I put it back in. Small gf's hands help but not required, I did it without em.
I got my ks on a special from pinnacle nissan for 80 bucks a few months back. I believe regular on their site is 130.
I got my ks on a special from pinnacle nissan for 80 bucks a few months back. I believe regular on their site is 130.
i tried to do mine yesterday on my cal-spec 99. after about two hours and my sunlight going away, i gave up and zip tied it to my battery tray. i'll try again today but it's gonna be a *******cker.
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