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For those who changed their knock sensor themselves?

Old Apr 19, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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For those who changed their knock sensor themselves?

I just bought my new knock sensor, but when I went to put it on I found it impossible to get at the knock sensor in the engine. How the hell did you do it? What tools did you use? What size wrench did you use for the bolt holding in the knock sensor?

I dont have big hands by any means but I found it impossible to get to.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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I think it's 12mm bolt. I used a couple extensions and two universal joint/ flexy extensions. Set a flashlight on the engine so I could see in there and used a magnetic pickup tool to guide the socket in there. It is easy to get out, much more difficult to get back in. There is a couple variations that you will find when searching for a writeup.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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I have heard alot of people use the term "universal joint" I am not a mechanic and searching on google didnt tell me much. Could you post a link to what a universal joint looks like?
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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Universal Joint
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:11 PM
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check the how-to's. plenty of info there...
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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i found that the universal joint was useless..for me anyway
I got big hands so i opted to remove the resonator (accordion looking thing connected to TB) to make room. After that the hardest part was breaking the nut loose (12mm or 14mm). I suggest looking for a long wrench so you can get some leverage on that nut. Either way expect to cut your hand(s).
Which reminds me... it was easier to fit in my left hand than it was my right.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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I believe I hold the org record of 6minutes to change a KS. That was my first time too
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm



I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
I believe I hold the org record of 6minutes to change a KS. That was my first time too
well I went out today and took it out and put it back in in 5 mintues and 59 secs. its on MDeezy.. jp man yea it wasn't too hard when I did it, had the little bro help me and such not too bad and I lost that horrible lag.
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 99grnmaxgxe
Universal Joint
thank you, i bought one last night and am attempting it again tonight
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 06:00 AM
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i used a u-joint to loosen it then had my gf's tiny hands to finish up.. went pretty smoothly i must say
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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I just used a regular 3/8" socket w/ratchet and jammed my hand in there. I got a little scraped up but **** it
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ti2tmax
I think it's 12mm bolt. I used a couple extensions and two universal joint/ flexy extensions. Set a flashlight on the engine so I could see in there and used a magnetic pickup tool to guide the socket in there. It is easy to get out, much more difficult to get back in. There is a couple variations that you will find when searching for a writeup.

Yep - I did the same thing. It shouldn't be too tight and you don't want it to be to tight.. Might crack it.

Once it was loose I was able to wedge my hand in there and get it. Scrapes you up, but oh well. Better than paying those assmunchers 400 bucks or whatever.
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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I hope I won't need to change my knock sensor. Good job and good luck to those that are going to attempt it.

To those that changed it, have you seen any performance or any changes to the car?
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by darklegend06
I hope I won't need to change my knock sensor. Good job and good luck to those that are going to attempt it.

To those that changed it, have you seen any performance or any changes to the car?

It's noticeable but not drastic. When the KS is dead and the engine is in that "safe mode" or whatever, you don't get quite as much performance or gas mileage. Hardly life-changing though.
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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I used a crowbar. You can figure out how I used it exactly.
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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Yeah i found the best way to change it is to use a 1/2" Drive Ratchet (For torque), 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, (2) 3/8" x 6" extensions, a 3/8 universal joint, and a 12mm socket.

I found its easier with a good swivel joint.. not one of the cheapies.. they get too loose. But it only took me 10 minutes my first time. Getting it out was harder than installing it for me. But I aligned the bolt using the wire harness then i stuck my left hand down and threaded it in.

Dave
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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Im worried how my hand is going to turn out after I do this. Ive been regreeting changing the KS for the last month now.
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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It won't be too bad, just some cuts and the feeling of accomplishment
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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getting your hand in there really depends on A) how big your hand is and B) wether you have a cali spec or not. If you have the cali spec, I don't think it's possible to get your hand in there at all. I could have if my arm bent in four places, but that wasn't gonna happen!
Old Apr 20, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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I actually prefer to take off the upper and lower IM...it's relatively easy to do and you don't end up with hamburger hands afterward.
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 02:04 AM
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I actually prefer to take off the upper and lower IM...it's relatively easy to do and you don't end up with hamburger hands afterward.
Props to you for doing that. I took off the first one, but the second one in the rear looked scary to take off. Just use extensions and swiveling joints. You may need to use many combinations, so find a couple swivel joints, short extensions and long extensions. I think I used 3 extensions of different lengths, and 2 swivel joints. Be creative. Connecting the KS to the wire harness to get the new one in is a good idea that I wish I thought of when I replaced mine. One guy said that there wasnt a whole lot of difference between a bad and a good KS, but believe me it is noticeable. I was getting between 200 and 250mi per tank with a dead KS. Now I have power/response/driveability, and its back up 400mi per tank.
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 04:43 AM
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ok i did it last night. tools i used were a 12mm universal joint, an extension and ratchet. I removed the air intake from the throttle body and moved it aside for more room, was done in 15 minutes including time to take off air intake. I got once scrape on my hand but no blood so its all good.

The hardest part was getting the bolt back in the right spot, definately get the universal joint and dont pay a mechanic to do this, its easy!

I can squeel the tires again!!
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:00 PM
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good jorb, mang
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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How much did you pay for the knock sensor?
Old Apr 21, 2006 | 07:09 PM
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$50 shipped to my door in a day and a half
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 07:49 AM
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yeah i just bought my new KS about 3 weeks ago, and didnt have much luck with it the first time. so this weekend i am going to make another attempt at it and hopefully will get it right this time!
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by THT
I actually prefer to take off the upper and lower IM...it's relatively easy to do and you don't end up with hamburger hands afterward.

That would be my method of choice as well. Not only to keep your hands from being cut/scraped up, but so you can torque down the knock sensor properly so it won't be to too sensitive, or not sensitive enough.
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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$50? Where?
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Courtesy wants $150 for the KS.
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by killerVQ30DE
I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm



I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.
i used the same exact set up...with a little bit of help from my gf's little hands!!
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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The GF's little hands help out a lot

I just ordered a craftsman 10" socket extension and a 5pc universal joint (on sale).
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jos
$50? Where?
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...88f5f173b49065

this is the canadian price, for some reason it is $125 in the us section of the site
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by killerVQ30DE
I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm



I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.
i used the same set up as him, and it worked like a charm for me
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 07:28 PM
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Knock Sensor on Ebay

I bought myOEM knock sensor on ebay for $100.00 delivered.
Old Apr 22, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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The universal joint makes this real easy. I didnt have a magnet so i put a small piece of tape to hold the bolt and ks together while I put it back in. Small gf's hands help but not required, I did it without em.
I got my ks on a special from pinnacle nissan for 80 bucks a few months back. I believe regular on their site is 130.
Old Apr 23, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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nissanpart4u.com has the KS for $114.86. Anybody have a better price?
Old Apr 24, 2006 | 07:40 AM
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i tried to do mine yesterday on my cal-spec 99. after about two hours and my sunlight going away, i gave up and zip tied it to my battery tray. i'll try again today but it's gonna be a *******cker.
Old Apr 24, 2006 | 08:06 AM
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So I take it, there is a way to get to the knock sensor in under 3 hours? Is there any easier way to get to a knock sensor on a VE30DE, without taking the Intake Manifolds off?
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