Ok so i have an amazing set of retrofited headlights courtesy of Maxgtr2000 (for people who dont know or want a pair click here http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthr...19#post4346319). So anyway i have them in and they look amazing. I got the ballasts wired up and the bulbs in and the light output is fantastic. Only problem is that when i was aiming them i noticed a huge difference in the sharpness of the cutoffs the right side (passenger) is perfect nice and sharp with that nice blue look to it, but on the left side (drivers) the cutoff is not sharp and it has got this faded yellow look to it. Is this a problem i can fix without having to take apart the light? Someone mentioned in this post http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469159 that the projector needs to be turned counter clockwise, will this help that problem or not? Thanks for all the help guys. (pics below sorry they are so small i will get bigger one tonight or tomorrow)

driver's side


passenger side


both


Again thanks for the help

B

 

why make two threads...you still need to turn the projector...ie it needs to be opened up again.

 

That's how mine kinda looks. I wouldn't sweat it. Opening up the headlamp after it's been all sealed up is a major pain. As long as you have a clean beam pattern, i wouldn't worry.

 

I wouldnt but i have them aimed a little low because im afraid that spot above the drivers side cut-off will cause glare if i aim them higher. Maybe not though i will re-aim them and see.

B

 

an idea on where to mount the ballasts. I've seen tons of pics of the headlights but never any of the engine bay and the actually completed wiring. Has anyone with bi-xenons wired them up...How??? what wire(s) did you tap into. pls no wiring schemas... no thread hijack intended here..

 

dam i want projectors How much was your set up and how much better than stock are they? On a scale from 1-10 stock being a 4

 

On blurry cut-off:

Only a guess but it looks likes a washer-mode was done to the
the passenger side. The shape of the cut-offs are identical so it looks like the shields are untouched. Twisting the projector won't effect the color.


On wiring:

There is tons of info @ http://hidplanet.com/forums

For my bi-xenon retrofit I decided to put the relay, the fuses,
and the diodes all in a waterproof box for easy access.
The ballasts I waterproofed and mounted them with
strong zip ties near the headlights. The wires I wrapped
with engine loom and zip tied them so they didn't touch any moving
or exhaust parts. Couldn't believe that everything fired up the
first time I turned the headlight switch on.

I'll see if I can post pics of wiring in the car.

 

What is a washer mod? I think the twisting is related to the spot above the cutoff line. Thanks for the info though

For the guy who asked about the price and scale of lighting. Compared to stock the lighting is an 11. As for the price you are looking at anywhere from 700-500(used add about 200-300 more if you get new) dollars depending on the projectors and ballasts you get. Whether or not you use your housings (takes about 2 weeks to get them finished plus shipping time, for more in for read post #1 and click the link READ EVERYTHING IN THAT LINK SO YOU KNOW WHAT PARTS TO LOOK FOR)

Some correct me if im wrong on the prices i was going by what i paid and looked at.

B

 

looks like E46 projectors with modded passenger side. the cutoff won't make much difference on the road unless you face a wall all the time. you may want to twist the projector a bit to level out the cutoff. depending on how its retro'ed you may not have to open up the headlights. when i did mine i made it such that i can do all the adjusments from the back of the headlights. contact the maker directly on how to rotate the projectors. nobody else can give you a real answer because every retro is different.

 

What do you mean by modded? They are Audi a4/s4 projectors. I have contacted the maker but he is in the middle of moving so he cant correct it now but its no big deal at the moment.

BTW how far out from the front of the car should the cutoff line be?

B

 

park 25' away from a wall, the top of the cutoff (the higher side after the jump) should be 2" below center of the projectors.

to mod a projector, you put in 1 or 2 #8 washers between the projector lens holder and the reflector bowl. the slight increase in distance sharpens the cutoff and adds more color, eliminating the yellow. looks like it was done to one of yours. its not too big of a deal. the slanted cutoff would bother me more.

edit: the cutoff should look like this

_____/-------/-------

the top of the two projectors should be leveled and at the same height.

 

I dont know if that was done to that projector. I do know how ever that the bulb holder was broken and the seller had to fab one, could this be a reason for the sharper cut-off, if the holder that was put on is slightly longer?

B

 

The position of the bulb does affect the color and sharpness of the cutoff. If the fabricated bulb holder doesn’t hold the bulb correctly in the projector then that may be the cause of your problem. You’ll have to examine it yourself. See if you can wiggle the bulb while it’s on and in the projector. If there are any changes to the cutoff when you do that then you know for sure its not sitting in there flat against the projector and you can fix whatever is needed. A properly installed bulb should be completely flat against the projector and held in place securely.

 

Okay, I'll bite... depending on the projector you're looking at between an 8-10 on that scale. If you're able to fit an S2k, TL or TSX projector in your housing then you're pretty much at 10.

 

At first the right one would not sit in there securely but after a little ingenuity it sit perfect and does not move. The left one is also secure. So...basically if i can figure out a way to gring the bulb back (what an 1/8 of an inch) then the cut off should change if not then i will have to have the washer mod done correct? Thanks for all the help guys.

And as for the scale from 1-10 i said 11 because my windshield is tinted and no matter what bulb i put in i still could not see shat.

B

 

Fellow Maxima.org members, I am WAY late on this trend of retrofitting a maxima with HID ligths. I have been contemplating looking into a way to get HIDs for my car, but just recently realized I was already behind!

I would like to get a set built for my 99 Maxima, but do not think I could do it by myself and not mess up $100 worth of light housing! So I would like to contract someone to build it for me, with me supplying the parts. If anyone knows someone that could do it for me (and not for my arm and leg) let me know. I will pay for the person's labor, and supply whatever parts I need to get the HID set built for my car. If they are on the east coast, I would also possibly drive to their location and let them put them in for me. Someone please help a fellow Maxima lover get his car up to date and looking swift!

 

Ok you don't need to post this in every single headlight thread. If you read you can see that Maxgtr2000 did them for the OP try to contact him instead of posting in every single thread.