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Super High Mileage 4th Gen. - What would keep it from going forever?

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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 07:29 AM
  #41  
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My wife's 96 has 218k on it. Very few problems. Main thing was a water pump at around 180k. Valve cover gaskets leak like a **** - and those will be replaced shortly - by me.

Yesterday replaced the hood struts. Recently did front struts which were terribly shot. Bose unit is cranky but that's about it.

OH, and the dang lighter base keeps coming out - I can't find the piece to hold it in anywhere.

It has done much better than my 2k. Of course, I've been much harder on the 2k.
Old Mar 12, 2007 | 07:42 AM
  #42  
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I'm loving this thread...

I just picked up a 95 SE with 253k miles on it.

It's running pretty good, short of a few starting problems.

To keep my question in this thread for future searches, what things should be replaced as a precaution if someone buys a high mileage Maxima?
Old Mar 12, 2007 | 07:50 AM
  #43  
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What's your starting problem like?

I would suggest fluid changes, check hoses and belts for cracking and replace if necessary, etc. Basically a 60k mile service. I think there's a thread on that somewhere.
Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:26 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Max_Gator
What's your starting problem like?
In the morning I go to start it and it requires me feathering the throttle to get it to start and idle right. Otherwise it idles rough and dies. Idle normally is still low at 500-600 RPMs though.

Once warmed up it starts "ok".

Sometimes when you go to start it, nothing...no sound at all. Then turn it off and back on and it cranks over.
Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:56 AM
  #45  
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If I wanted to keep my maxima for ever this is what I would do:

First do all of the scheduled maintenance, it's very important not to cheap out on fluids and other items like thermostats and hoses.

Secondly I would visit my local junk yards and look for a low mileage auto tranny, it should only cost you 700-1000 dlls and it's a good idea to have it ready for when your tranny dies, because it will eventually die (I would start looking for one at 120K). Buy it and just keep it in your garage.

This will save you a lot of money, the money that you save on not having a other car payment and insurance I would save monthly, it will add up in just a couple of years.

Good luck!!
Old Mar 12, 2007 | 12:58 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by cditto
In the morning I go to start it and it requires me feathering the throttle to get it to start and idle right. Otherwise it idles rough and dies. Idle normally is still low at 500-600 RPMs though.

Once warmed up it starts "ok".

Sometimes when you go to start it, nothing...no sound at all. Then turn it off and back on and it cranks over.

Did you clean the throttle body and IAC Valve ??? Those two can definitely smoothen out your idling problems. Also while you are at it , how about changing your PCV valve and Fuel Filter too . All that will definitely help you get a better start. I was surprised by the amount of gunk that coated the walls of my friend's and my maxima . His was at 104K and mine was at 95K. I am also not a big fan of the M1 oil, way too much engine clatter for me. I used Mobil Clean 5000 last time I changed the oil and it seems much much more silent , the difference more noticable when the car is warm. M1 = Clatter , M 5000 = whisper quiet. Try seafoaming too , as well as Auto-rx for long term protection. Change your spark plugs , check the coil packs. That sort of stuff will definitely help you keep your car running good. Also clean/replace your MAF ( 85 USD from Dave B. the parts guy ) .
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 07:06 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by |3ourne
Did you clean the throttle body and IAC Valve ??? Those two can definitely smoothen out your idling problems. Also while you are at it , how about changing your PCV valve and Fuel Filter too . All that will definitely help you get a better start. I was surprised by the amount of gunk that coated the walls of my friend's and my maxima . His was at 104K and mine was at 95K. I am also not a big fan of the M1 oil, way too much engine clatter for me. I used Mobil Clean 5000 last time I changed the oil and it seems much much more silent , the difference more noticable when the car is warm. M1 = Clatter , M 5000 = whisper quiet. Try seafoaming too , as well as Auto-rx for long term protection. Change your spark plugs , check the coil packs. That sort of stuff will definitely help you keep your car running good. Also clean/replace your MAF ( 85 USD from Dave B. the parts guy ) .

Thanks! Should I go ahead and replace the starter now or clean those first and then replace if needed? I say that because the starter isn't uber-cheap like the PCV Valve and fuel filter.
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 11:06 PM
  #48  
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I would say clean those things first since thats a cheap way to do it and then if the problem still persists , then get a starter. given your mileage the throttle body must be COATED with grime causing the butterfly valve to stick and not work properly.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:47 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by |3ourne
I would say clean those things first since thats a cheap way to do it and then if the problem still persists , then get a starter. given your mileage the throttle body must be COATED with grime causing the butterfly valve to stick and not work properly.
I've got a Chilton's manual, but man, that throttle body looks like a PITA to get to...there must be 50 things to disconnect first. And where exactly is the PCV valve? Near the passenger side firewall? I ask because the manual points it to there but I don't see it.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:25 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by cditto
I've got a Chilton's manual, but man, that throttle body looks like a PITA to get to...there must be 50 things to disconnect first. And where exactly is the PCV valve? Near the passenger side firewall? I ask because the manual points it to there but I don't see it.

Ok , first the throttle body is really really easy to take off. Unsnap the top of your airfilter box ( w/e its called ) and then there is a 12mm bolt on the side , unscrew that. The look where the air intake assembly meets the throttle body , there is a clamp , unscrew/loosen the clamp and pull the entire air intake body out. Be careful with it though and dont throw it around as it has the MAF sensor in it which is very fragile.

The PCV valve is on the engine block to your right side if you are looking at the engine. Its sort of under the throttle body , should be black in color. I wish I had my car at home , I would have taken pics of it , but my wife has it. If I get a chance ill take a pic later today and post it for you.

Hope this helps.
Old Apr 7, 2007 | 01:25 PM
  #51  
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'99 30I 193K and running perfect. I use full synthetic oil and flush my auto transmission fluid once a year and run great tires and fix any front end stuff immediately. After the maintenance stuff, I think you need to keep your enthusiasm for the car high. I'd recommend getting a professional detailing once a year which is well and surprisingly worth the money.
Old Apr 7, 2007 | 01:46 PM
  #52  
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From: San Dimas, CA
Originally Posted by HallKemar
What would prevent my Maxima from lasting basically forever?
Not keeping up the maintenance(changing oil, timing belt, etc.)

What's going to go first that will force me to give it up?
(transmision slipping)

Will the tranny blow-up at 250k and induce me to put that money to another car?
Theres Maxima's that have over 250k on them that drive better then 06 Amercican Cars.

I'm sure you meant in general for cars when referring to the timing belt, but as a heads up the Max 4th gen has a timing chain which goes nearly forever, said over 200k and sometimes never needs maintenance. My max has 154k, and everything is as new, except it would seem my gas milage isnt the greatest as of recently.

Also, even though the cars value may go down, I still won't have a problem replacing my tranny if it goes, local socal import warehouses have them under 50k miles for around $450, therefore being that it is my reliable daily driver (also an auto) I would do major repairs to it when needed, but thats just my mentality.

Great discussion! Thanks!
Old Apr 7, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #53  
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I got over 200,000 miles and runnin'. Just follow the daily maintanence and it should keep on rolling. When should the knock sensor be replaced, and what exactly does it improve running wise?
Old Apr 7, 2007 | 10:44 PM
  #54  
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I tore apart a motor with 200k+, it had the snot beat out of it, and on top of that, because of a waterpump failure it was overheated at least 10 times to the point that the temp gauge would be pegged and it would start to idle really rough, eventually the headgasket blew, I spec'd out a few things when I tore it down....... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=496105
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