xlr8r

After about 130Kmiles of hard driving my front end is showing signs of wear. Strange noises from the hubs, pulling to one side on acceleration, shuddering on hard braking so I'm planning to rebuild the entire front end with a objective of not having to go in here again for at least 30-40Kmiles. current plan is:

drive axles (CV)
wheel bearings
control arm ball joint & bushings
sway bar bushings
tie rod ends

My KYB shocks are only about 25K miles old so I may keep them.

My questions are: should I also replace the engine mounts and does having all the wheel gear off make it easier or harder to install the engine mounts. Any previous experience on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys!

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I would do the inner tie rods also.

I'm sure an alignment and brake repair maybe all you need but at that age. It doesnt hurt to replace those older parts.

I would leave the engine mounts alone unless you are specifically have a problem with them.

xlr8r

thanks for that. The engine mounts sure sound like a knarly job.

Should have noted that the hub noise is roadspeed related. I had new pads and rotors, front and rear, last year.

SNOMAX

iTrader: (14)

Get the kit from worldsuspension on ebay that includes all the suspension stuff. You can find the store here:

http://stores.ebay.com/World-Suspens...QQsofpZ0QQtZkm

search for maxima. The whole kit with ineer,outter tie rods, lower control arm with bushing and ball joint and sway bar end links is like $185 plus shipping.

Also replace the Axles with rebuilds or Raxles (www.raxles.com ask for marty).

When doing new wheel bearings, you will need the inner and outter seal. They are about $15 per seal from the dealer (feel free to look around). You will need 4 seal (2 per side).

You should also replace the Lower Control Arm nut. It's nylon threaded so replacing it is good measure. it's $4 and change from the dealer, cheaper other places. You need 2.

You may also opt for energy suspension bushings. I suggest just the sway bar end link ones and sway bar frame bushing ($24.95 plus shipping from cattman performance). The LCA bushings are a major pain in the a$$. And after 130K miles, new bushings are new bushings.

While you are in there, get synthetic brake grease, anti seize and go crazy with the hardware, make sure everything will come off again if you have to do any more work.

Hope that helps.

ethnic6

iTrader: (5)

wow, that will cost u a pretty penny... well I'd see how the engine mounts are, if u feel that they are weak or rusted, then u might as well change it...

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Resurfacing or replacing the front rotors is the only way to stop that from happening.

xlr8r

Thanks Snomax. Thats some great advice - I'll check out those parts.

I was going for bearings seals, sway bar and LCA bushings from pinnaclenissan.com for $150, BJ's tie rods and belts from autohausaz.com for $125 and CV axles from our local parts store for $180 for a grand total under $500. Throw in some new tires and an alignment I should be down for a grand (plus several days on the ground)

The engine mounts would add another $200+ from what I can tell.

Considering how little I've spent on this car over the 8 years I've had it and how strong the engine is it seems like a reasonable plan.

Thanks again for all your advice!

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I would not replace the axles if they do not need replacing. Ball joints, and other bushing will wear over time and produce a rougher ride, but the axles do not fall into this category. When the axles go, or a boot gets torn and greese is lost then replace the axle but not if its perfectly fine.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

If it is under medium to heavy acceleration that is normal...

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

hmmm . . . I dont think our torque steer is that bad. I've accelerated medium to very heavy in 1st and other times 2nd/3rd and didnt pull to a side, no need to correct my steering.

You just need an alignment.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I coast with my hand off the wheel every so often, doesn't stray.

I have noticed it in most other Max's I have driven (haven't driven them all hard) and a 3.5 Alti that I have driven.

I have filled motor mounts and to be honest I think it torque steers more with the Tein/KYB setup than with the D2's. As long as the road was pretty smooth I could pretty much keep my foot in it through the turn (in the middle of the apex).... BUT this thread is Xlr8r's so this is all a moot point.

xlr8r

Yeah, the torque steer is new this season and seeing as how trashed the roads are around here after the rains I think you're right that an alignment is the root cause of my problems (except the hub squeak)

Seeing as I got to fix the bearing (#1 suspect) I might as well replace everything else thats about to go.

So MDeezy, my boots are intact and no clon-clonk-clonk on wheel lock. You reckon the original axles will go to 180Kmiles with perhaps a grease job? That would save significant cash! Trouble is, I really don't want to have to go back in here in 6 months time.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

the original axles can definately make it to 180k. I would inspect your boots every oil change to make sure they are still intact and keep and ear out for and noises.

If you definately dont want to go back under neath and want to do an over hual then spend the extra money and replaces the axles. Changing the axles doesnt take long at all, I would wait till the boot breaks or something before spending hundreds of dollars to replace what already works fine.

BORQUA79

This post is resurrected from the dead... But does new LCA's come with the nut when purchased?

And the parts from the ebay seller are they of good quality compared to dealer? Seller has 99.9% feedback and 11,000 + sells...

What im trying to ask is, did anyone buy from this seller???

ebay store: bestsuspension

JwaxMax99

iTrader: (14)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=ebay+lca