Hey 4th Gen folks. I typically only hang in the Audio and Electronics section but here I am w/ an issue hoping you can help.

OK, I'm no mechanic so please take it easy on me.

A year or so back I had a brake problem. One place thought I needed rear caliper replacements along with new rotors and prolly pads too. The quote was 1k for the whole job. The next place I went to for another estimate found something around the caliper causeing the problem, but said that if it was that, it would have indeed been 1k. Well now that rear caliper IS bad, and i think i'm due a full brake job. I think the fronts may need rotors/pads too. $1,000 smackeroo's just doesn't sound good here.

I'm no mechanic, but I can get my car up on stands and take off tires and follow instructions. Is this a doable job for a non-mechanic? Are there step by step instructions for this that I could follow (no mechanic, but no idiot either...I install my own elaborate stereo's). Are there websites to get replacement parts cheaper than local shops will sell this stuff for.

Help me not get mugged on this deal please!

 

i'm not that much of a help, but i kno that the parts for the rear "loaded" caliper [that includes brake pads] and a rotor is roughly $300 each side..but my uncle got one side for me for about $200. i kno this cuz i had to replace my rear passenger side a few days ago lol dunno how much for the fronts tho. PM me and i'll ask my uncle if he can get those prices for you..no promises tho, but will try if you need.

 

check the motorvate web site... http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
for the front brakes...
if your gonna do the brake lines, you'll need a different wrench. If you want a set of rear pads, I've got a pbr/axis set for 10 bux + shipping. Brand new. one broken noise clip. Let me know.
btw, you can cut your discs up to 2 times before you need to have them replaced.

 

Thanks for the help, but I hardly understand what you're saying.

Cut the discs? pbr axis set? brake lines? uh oh

Now I've found websites that have calipers pretty cheap...under 100 a pop. cheap rotors and discs too. Is there something else I need? Do I seem so ignorant about this that I should just bring it to a shop? I've heard replacing brakes isn't that tough?

 

Its not that hard of a job..

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f59ba.jsp


http://instructional1.calstatela.edu...n%20Maxima.htm

 

GREAT links. I can do that. Thanks much!

So these cheapo ones online are OK? Seems a full rear brakejob would be about 300 or so?

 

Those online cheap parts are probably ok. I would prefer a local store , because if u run into a problem in the future, u just have to go to parts store and get the replacement, depending on warranties, instead of waiting for a couple of weeks for the replacement delivery from online stores. advance auto or napa has calipers fairly cheap. Dont know how good they are , though. Just my $0.02.

 

By cut the discs, he means resurface the rotor.

This is a job you can do yourself.

 

Yeah looking at the autozone site, they have powder coated ones for under 100 a pair if i'm reading right....

 

ugh...loaded, semi loaded? pad, drum, rotor, shoes....what all do i need for a whole break job? Gotta look more into this, but after seeing prices online, I gotta do this without paying the shops what they're charging.

 

drums do not exist in this world....

rotors, pads, calipers, fluid

 

i think he got RIPPED off.

 

From How Stuff Works: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake.htm

 

K thanks. I'll order stuff and try it once I'm off, at the beginning of the summer.

 

Here's some more pics & stuff I learned after doing my first brake job. Hope it helps.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469787

 

when looking at the prices online, do not forget about the core charge for the calipers. You will need to send the old ones back to the place you purchased them from so that they can send them back to someone to have them rebuilt. Core charges typically range from 10-100 bux per caliper. I would personally purchase from a local store, just to avoid having to pay shipping to send an old set back. But, if the price is cheaper online, go for it. Before you tackle this job, take the discs to autozone (or whatever) and see if the discs can be resurfaced. You could end up saving lots of money by having them cut instead of replacing them. They will measure the thickness of the rotor to see if there is enough "meat" left on them to remove some and stay within factory specs.
As I stated before, usually the factory rotors can be cut up to 2 times before they are junk.
PBR/AXIS ult ceramic set of rear brake pads 10+shipping. Let me know.
PBR/AXIS is a brand name of pads.
ult cermaic is their preimum brake pad.
4 pads to make a set for the rear discs.
hope that helps...
jsmax

 

K sent you a PM. Does autozone do the resurfacing if it can be done?

 

Loaded rear calipers are about $160 bucks.
Rear rotors are probably about 70 each.

Everything will bolt right onto the car with basic tools. The hard part will be bleeding the system correctly so you have a nice firm brake pedal.

Total cost $460 plus 2 hours of your time.

 

I'm actually excited to do this now.

 

ill do your brakes if you do my kick panels

 

You'll need some wrenches in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and I think 17mm. Basically I always have the full range from 10-19mm on hand, minus 11, 13, 15. You'll need a small container of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid (not 5!), and 1-2feet of 1/8"(?) ID clear tubing. Having a BIG (10"+) c-clamp is a very good idea.

Rear calipers: buy a remanufactured pair from Napa 'loaded' (with new pads) at $130/ea. Probably good to buy new rotors too. Don't resurface rotors - just buy new Brembo blank rotors from Tire Rack.

Installation is easy - just unbolt the e-brake cable/spring from the caliper, unbolt the hydraulic line, unbolt the big bolts holding the caliper to the hub (they come out facing away from you, toward the middle of the car), then remove the brake caliper. It will be fit a little snug against the brake rotor, so you may need to use a mallet to tap it off the rotor as it breaks the crust of rust on the edge of the rotor. If you bought new rotors, get a pair of M10(?) bolts and screw them into the two holes in the rotor near the lugs. Leave one lugnut threaded on so you can't accidentally drop it on your foot. Install the new one in the opposite way, then bleed that brake.

Bleed it with a helper - open the lid on the brake fluid reservoir (right under the hood in front of the driver), and the helper will apply pressure to the brake pedal. At the brake caliper, attach the hose to the bleeder nipple and put the other end of the hose in a catch jar or container. Don't let brake fluid touch paint, ever - it'll peel paint faster than nail polish remover. As your helper applies pressure, you turn the bleeder about 1/2turn and the fluid will be pushed out the hose. Before the brake pedal reaches the floor, you turn the bleeder shut. The key is that you only have the bleeder open while there is pressure on the brake pedal. Check the fluid reservoir between each 'pump' to make sure there it is always filled to max. Repeat until there are no bubbles coming out in the fluid - for this job, just a couple pedal pumps should do it.

The front brakes are identical, except there isn't an e-brake to disconnect.

Dave

 

I really appreciate all of these helpful hints.

Creative: Have you done this before (brakes)? I thought you had fiberglassed before? I have a house down here, with beer on tap of course. If in a few weeks you'd like to come down and work with me on the brakes and stay for a day or two, I'll build you kicks with your help (meaning I'd work on one and teach you and you could do the other). Once you're taught the art and the way of fiberglassing, it opens up a whole new realm of car audio. I don't like doing basic crap wiring and stuff, but I love glassing. Can't wait till I get them two 15's glassed up in the rear deck The 12's just arent' doing it for me anymore

I love it how even a thread about me fixing my brakes comes back to my car audio addiction I've found powder coated yellow calipers that would match my subs and new trunk setup.....hmmmmm

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

go to autozone and get some rotors and calipers, and some pads......all the stuff has warrenty so if it goes bad you can get new, and it will run you maybe $250 at the most.....

 

bboy im down with that 100%

 

Look for brembo blank rotors on-line they shouldnt be more than $50 shipped per rotor.

 

If you are looking at Brake Lines at all. DONT BUY The Crown ones sold by Mossy Nissan among others. They will not fit properly without modifications.

 

i got all new pads rotors and brake lines through the gb section i dont remeber exactly how much it cost but it sure made a difference.

 

Brake lines will make the most difference. Your old rubber lines have started to get spongy and believe it or not, they do expand under heavy braking loads. Braided stainless steel DOT APPROVED lines will make a huge difference in the firmness of the pedal feel because they don't expand under load. Of course, new pads ( preformance types) and either cut or new rotors (properly bedded in) will help in the braking distances as well.
see here to bed in brakes properly...
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

 

So what's the problem with the existing brake? It seems excessive to replace everything with new parts. Your car is a 98, I don't think the brake hoses are bad already. If you want to upgrade to stainless steel, then go for it. Make sure to use a torque wrench and don't over torque. Overall, brakes are pretty easy to do. There are plenty of helps (see rest of thread and sticky).

 

Few things...

1) Speedbleeders!!!!! (You can bleed brakes alone with these and they are cheap - search the forums here or Google for more info)

2) Check the group deals forum if you are gonna buy rotors/pads. They have REALLY good deals. I saw some Brembo blanks for $36/$30 front/rear (each for 4th gen)