OEM Stock Battery - Hitachi??
#1
My car died yesterday. The car would initially turn over and eventually just went- click click click. I did a search on starter problems (its a 95 SE with 130k) and thought my starter might be dead. Anyway, I rented a 2001 chevy tracker for the day ($35), and through the suggestion of a friend bought a new battery. It worked!
So when I pull the old battery out, I can't read the date on it, its a hitachi and the water mark was way below the "low level" indicator. Does anyone know if this is the stock battery?
thanks,
PG
So when I pull the old battery out, I can't read the date on it, its a hitachi and the water mark was way below the "low level" indicator. Does anyone know if this is the stock battery?
thanks,
PG
#2
Originally posted by Pappa Grande
My car died yesterday. The car would initially turn over and eventually just went- click click click. I did a search on starter problems (its a 95 SE with 130k) and thought my starter might be dead. Anyway, I rented a 2001 chevy tracker for the day ($35), and through the suggestion of a friend bought a new battery. It worked!
So when I pull the old battery out, I can't read the date on it, its a hitachi and the water mark was way below the "low level" indicator. Does anyone know if this is the stock battery?
thanks,
PG
My car died yesterday. The car would initially turn over and eventually just went- click click click. I did a search on starter problems (its a 95 SE with 130k) and thought my starter might be dead. Anyway, I rented a 2001 chevy tracker for the day ($35), and through the suggestion of a friend bought a new battery. It worked!
So when I pull the old battery out, I can't read the date on it, its a hitachi and the water mark was way below the "low level" indicator. Does anyone know if this is the stock battery?
thanks,
PG
#3
Originally posted by JMAX95
... You should have you alternator checked too just in case.
... You should have you alternator checked too just in case.
#4
Help - Question about test?
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Good idea. A faulty voltage regulator could allow the voltage to exceed 15 volts. This boils the electrolyte out of the battery. Many auto parts stores offer a no-cost charging system test. This is done with an electronic tester and takes only two minutes. Please have this test done.
Good idea. A faulty voltage regulator could allow the voltage to exceed 15 volts. This boils the electrolyte out of the battery. Many auto parts stores offer a no-cost charging system test. This is done with an electronic tester and takes only two minutes. Please have this test done.
What test am I asking for - A charging system test? What will the test indicate - that my alternator is bad?
Thanks guys!
#5
Re: Help - Question about test?
Originally posted by Pappa Grande
What test am I asking for - A charging system test? What will the test indicate - that my alternator is bad?
What test am I asking for - A charging system test? What will the test indicate - that my alternator is bad?
#6
Actually, just filling it back up with water may have solved your problem. It is normal for a nonsealed battery to lose water slowly over time, and if you haven't filled it up ever, it is probably low. I remember I had to fill my stock battery up every half a year or so. But yes, the stock battery is Hitachi.
Given the age of your vehicle, it is likely the stock battery is shot, and that was the cause of your car not starting, not necessarily a charging system defect. You can do the quick method of checking your charging system by just measuring the voltage at the battery when the car is on. It should be around the 13.5-14V range. A mechanics shop has a device called a bench tester that can test both the alternator and the battery individually.
Given the age of your vehicle, it is likely the stock battery is shot, and that was the cause of your car not starting, not necessarily a charging system defect. You can do the quick method of checking your charging system by just measuring the voltage at the battery when the car is on. It should be around the 13.5-14V range. A mechanics shop has a device called a bench tester that can test both the alternator and the battery individually.
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