buntypatel

I found out my engine mounts need to be replaced. I am going to try and do it at home since the dealer wants $300. Anyone have pics showing where they are or any information on how to replace them and if its easy or not?

97BlackSEGold

iTrader: (1)

in the stickys man, best of luck to you, its a b!tch

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

they really arnt that bad...one is on the left side of the motor ...the other is the front under the car......check the stickies someone has the Factory service manual....and it in section EM page 58-like 61

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

This's not a flame, but rather, my opinion.

Since you're asking this basic question, I'd suggest you consider bringing your car to any mechanic to get it done. It's about $80 for new mounts (assuming you have manual transmission without electronic controlled mounts). Labor will be around $80/hr, and it takes about an hour, give-or-take. So $160 is still cheaper than dealer's $300.

There are a few threads suggesting inserting a pink pencil eraser into the mounts. That may be the ultimate low cost temporarly solution.

Jae

ManualMaxima

iTrader: (10)

yea if you are asking where they are....you probely should not be doing it yourslef......some of them are plain visable, which means you do not know what they are.

honestly take it to a mechanic.

no offense

llama

Sorry to hijack your thread but...are you really serious that it costs 160 bucks to get engine mounts replaced? My mechanic quoted me 500, I am so pissed right now!

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

I bought my mounts for $80+ship from this guy: http://stores.ebay.com/id=22185450?ssPageName=L2

You most likely need the left and right mounts. Left is the one by the radiator, right is the one by the firewall. The passenger side one and the one on the transmission isn't as likely to fail.

And the labor cost and time is a conservative estimate.

llama and buntypatel: I hope you guys weren't quoted for all 4 mounts.

Jae

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

Buy tools and get dirty. You'll learn alot.

Also a haynes manual is worth its weight in gold for this situation.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

so is the facotry service manual ...which a few memebers have PDF links too....you could always go the honda biy way and just fill them with 3M liguid polyurethane and have nice stiff mounts

MikAus

How do you know when to replace your motor mounts.

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

when the engine falls out of the car.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

haahhahahha

The mounts that you need to replace are the front and rear. I would not worry so much about the tranny mount and then the one on the passenger side. This is how I did mine. Before I started I put a jack with a peice of wood on the pearch to support the engine when it moves. I took the bolts out of the mounts. The one by the radiator is easy to see, the one close to the fire wall is easiest to get to turu the driver side wheel well. I foget what size it is but you will need some pretty long extensions to get to it. You may need to use the jack to move the engine around to get the bolts all the way out, they tend to bind up with the weight of the motor pushing down on them. After you have done this you can just drop the cross member/carriage. Its two bolts in the front and three in the rear. This will fall on your head so be ready to support it or have a friend help you (make sure you still have the jack under the engine to help support the weight of the engine, I put mine where the bell housing and the engine meet). Once you have dropped the cross member the mounts are bolted to it. Take them off and put the new ones on. Once you have done that just put everything back together in reverse order....the problem you will probably have is line the mounts back up since the motor has moved, so you are going to need to use the jack again to move the engine around to line them up. Once you get one started just get it in a little bit and get the other one started as well before you tighten them up. Goodluck. It's not that hard but can be time consuming.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Just a heads-up. You don't need to support the motor when removing the crossmember/mounts as long as the two side mounts are in place. They will support the weight easily. The motor will drop down an inch or so. I've done this on numerous occasions (6+ times at least).

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I have done it this way too, but I have felt more comfortable working under the car with out the engine sagging down from just being held in by the two side mounts...but yes, you can do it that way.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

What kind of wear to the side mounts experience? Just twisting forces? I would think the the front and rear mounts would bear most of the burden of the engine shifting and hard shifts, wheel hop etc.

Would filling the front and rear mounts be effective enough. As it stands all 4 of my mounts are DIY filled but it looks like it is barely sliding out of my passenger side mount.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I would think that with the jack there you would have a much better chance/spend less time on lining up the bolt holes again on installation.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I filled mine with the mcmaster carr urethane. They are holding up fine. I let them set up for about 4 days after I filled them though. Yes you are right about the front and rear mounts if they are shot your engine will move around when hitting the gas hard. You will have more wheel hop..etc.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Au contraire, mon frere. It's actually easier when you can move the motor/tranny assembly. So far, i've had the easiest time doing it like this:

Attach the mounts to the motor first, then attach the crossmember to the mounts, then rock the whole assembly toward the rear to attach the crossmember to the frame, then push up on the crossmember to attach it to the frame in the rear. Make sure the mount-to-motor bolts are NOT torqued down until all of the weight is on them.