bhmax16

So...before switching to Amsoil I had a perfectly running non-oil burning VQ. Now, a couple months after making the switch...I realize I'm losing a quart of oil a month (never had this happen before). I have absolutely no leaks...so I had a buddy get into my car and step on the gas pretty hard....what do I see? A small puff of blue smoke. This tells me my valve seals and/or piston rings are shot. Any input on this? Thanks

RedfoxXx

iTrader: (7)

its cheaper to swap a new VQ30(with core) then it is to rebuild, now i wait for osmeone to yell VQ35 time . . . . .

matty

iTrader: (54)

I wouldnt blame the oil. Thats top quality oil. I have 141K on my VQ using MObil one and didnt burn a drop of oil, ever. How many miles on the motor ??

-matt

kenju4u

HA HA! sorry but thats why i keep away from such products and stick to main stream stuff. I use Mobile 1 fully synthatic and its awesome!

Well to make u feel better, I think it might be just that this paticular oil is buring in your car because its thinner or not the same grade level as 5W-30. switch back to what you were using and see what happens...if it still happens, oh well its a hard lesson learned.

Good Luck!

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

Another advocate for AMSOIL. Def. not the oil.

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

You've obviously never done any research on AMSOIL.

bhmax16

Only 130K on the motor...almost all highway miles (100 miles a day to and from work).

I'm debating whether to add a quart of oil every month, rebuild the motor (i'm a mechanic and can do it myself), toss in a VQ35, or get rid of the car. The whole family is telling me it's getting too old....

I'll probably wind up going back to Castrol GTX

LudeAEM

first off, you put amsoil in when you had a high mileage car. After its been running on normal oil for that long the seals and what not are used to that. So its only natural that you are going to burn and/or leak now. Not to mention going back and forth between and dino oil and sythetic isn't a good idea.

bhmax16

I switched only after doing my research and an extensive auto-rx treatment. With all the success I have read about with high-milage maximas switching to Amsoil I figured I'd give it a go. I just wasn't as lucky as most others seem to have been on this forum.

And just an FYI...it's ok to go from synthetic back to dino if you haven't been running the synthetic for very long (1 or 2 oil changes). If longer than that then yes I agree it'd be better to stick with synthetic.

Main purpose of my post was just to make others aware of what can potentially happen while switching to a product that probably has too much hype for it's own good

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

Before you junk the motor, you might want to try some of that Auto Rx. That stuff is supposed to also help your rings and seals.

scubasteve

iTrader: (6)

your a mechanic? No offense but this is why my car(s) have never and will never be worked on anyone but myself.

bhmax16

Ok newbie...you're going to come on here and try to tell me I'm a bad mechanic because I tried a product that most people seem to have very good luck with? I don't see the logic in that

scubasteve

iTrader: (6)

I never said you were a bad mechanic, im simply in disagreement with your position on what is extensively proven a great product. As a mechanic you should have expected these problems when switching to this type of oil, and realise that its not the oil's fault. I may be new to the forums, but i am certainly not new to cars or working on them, modifications, etc. I have a 1200 HP raceboat, a 850 HP camaro, and a 12 second RX7 that has not yet been put on a dyno. I am not going to let my brief membership time stop me from expressing opinions.

Take it for what its worth.

whitegold

iTrader: (1)

Try a few Auto RX treatments, it might help the seals, I used it before switching to Mobile 1 to be safe.

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

Out of curiosity, why do you blame the oil and not the other product you ran through the engine? Perhaps neither product is to blame and other factors have caused your problem. We have many members who have switched to AMSOIL with over 100K on their engines with excellent results...and it's not just luck.

bhmax16

Whether I expected the problems or not I still find it odd that nobody has ever had a similar issue before (from what I have read). It seemed as if you were attacking me before but thanks for clarifying. I respect your position, but my philosophy is part of the joy of working on cars is trying new products and finding what works for you. Unfortunetely in this case I had a setback and it didn't work out.

Sounds like you have some nice vehicles at your disposal. My current project is an '83 chevy pickup. Haven't decided exactly what I want to do with it yet. That raceboat of yours would be something to see!

scubasteve

iTrader: (6)

Hoping to get it to one of the races this year. It's a sleek craft 18ft with a berkley jet drive and a blown chevy 454. it has a 1471 blower on it hehehe

Everyone takes a different view, it is what makes us human. If you cant give advice without forcing it on others, then you shouldnt give it is my position

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I hate to be captain obvious here, but did you overfill originally?

bhmax16

I'm not blaming the oil entirely...it's more of a speculation at the moment since the problem occured almost immediately after the switch. I'm not going to blame the auto-rx because I never incurred any oil loss during the treatments while the product was in use.

What gets me the most is I have never ever seen valve seals go on a maxima engine...ever...nor has my boss who has been in the business for 25 years

It could all be a coincidence. But it doesn't change the fact that my VQ is near the end of its life rather early

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

guys fact of the matter is that synthetic oil makes stuff leak... it is a little thinner than regular oil... what i would do is to get an oil change with regular pensoil and see what happens.... i also work on cars and im gonna say that yes different oils act differently....

HomerMAC

iTrader: (5)

.. i dont know man .. mabey 10w 30...? might not leak..?

D-Bo

iTrader: (9)

matty

iTrader: (54)

I really dont know where you guys get this idea from ??

The main reason why synthetic is better is that is protects better under all heat ranges and cold ranges, and it doesnt break down like convetional oils do.

-matt

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

No one mentions the weights being used. BTW. Synthetic is not thinner. But it's more consistent in size than dino. So there is a possiblity that more can sneak past rings on a high miler motor.

It's not the oil. It's your 130,000+ miler motor. You could try upping the weight to see what happens. Then again, at 130k, I'd just continue to use dino and change it at 3-4k. Synthetics are great at PREVENTING wear. But if the wear is already present, it's not going to magicly make wear disappear.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

well not really thinner but it does make stuff leak.... such as seals and such... perfect example on my car.. whe i used regular oil nothing leaked a year ago i switched to synthetic and now im already seeing a bunch of wet spots... same with all the cars in my family...
and yea they are great at PREVENTING wear and dont make weear disapear but they certainly at least in my opinion belong on a motor with 130k miles...

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Modern synthetics do not cause seal leaks. They can only go past seals that are compromised already. Synthetics might be able to benefit a 130k motor only if it's in excellent condition, has great compression and passes a leakdown test. Otherwise don't waste your $ and just use dino. Why? A worn motor will contaminate synthetics to the point of having to change it too soon.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Thats not the least bit true.

wahoohead

I hesitate to jump in but.... I have a 95 Max with 127,000. It ran Mobil 1 from 2000 miles until about 90,000 when it ran Amsoil, until I discover edBITOG.COM, and started fooling with Motul, ARX, and German Green Castrol. I burn no oil, but I did do two complete Auto RX treatments. If I had your problem I'd do another complete ARX treatment of approx 2000 miles with Dino, then 2000 miles of rinse with Dino and then see what happens. Could also be that by luck of the draw, you engine is just ready for a rebuild, but another 20 bucks for ARX before a rebuild is worth it.

Every oil does not like every engine, and even the fact that Amsoil worked well in mine is no guarantee for you, but it is a good sign. I further think 10w-40 might be the way to go as our engines get older. German Green Castro 0w-30 is a pretty thick 30 weight, while Amsoil is known for thickening as it get older. JMHO

eckohb

iTrader: (4)

Mobil 1 is only 80% synthetic, as opposed to Amsoil being 100% synthetic. Because it's "mainstream", and you see all the commercials for it, doesnt mean its the best product available. They advertise Castrol Synthetic just as much, why wont you use it? Probably because youve heard everyone say "Mobil 1 is the best!", and you go along with it. There is nothing wrong with Amsoil motor oil, and it's the only oil I've had in all three of my Maximas, with NO problems, all from 95k-130k miles.