mark350z

Any tricks I should know about for replacement?

I have done front pads several times, anything different with the parking brake in play?

I would assume that at the very least the parking brake must be released.

Thanks

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Tools needed:

Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40

Instructions:

1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.

2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.

3) Finish taking off rear wheels.

4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.

5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.

6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.

7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.

8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.

9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.

Notes:

Make sure your parking brake is off.

Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.

10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.

After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.

Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.

mark350z

Thank you!!

I recommend we sticky this if it hasn't been already!!

Cheers,

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

No problemo. I wrote this up in a word document a long time ago.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

The write-up was good but i would recommend removing the caliper slider pins and cleaning them and the bore of the torque member and applying new grease. I would also recommend greasing the pad retaining clips where they make contact with the pad. Maybe even a dab of anti-squeal compound for good measure.

Frank Fontaine

I'm not sure if the piston should be compressed as far as it can go...when I did that, it did not come back out. (Even on a new caliper I don't think I would force it all the way...imho) I would recommend pushing it in as far as needed to reinstall new pads.

One very important tip mentioned was that the slots in the piston need to line up with the knubs on the backing of the pads--very important!!!!!!

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

I always push it in until I feel it stop. You dont want to like bear down on it hard. Just lightly turn it.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Where did i mention pushing the piston in as far as it could go?

I mentioned the caliper pins that go into the torque member.