starting problem, need help
08-01-2006, 07:23 PM
#1
starting problem, need help
recently when ive been starting my car it has been taking a few tries. when i turn the ignition its turning/cranking fine so i dont think its the starter or battery (battery is brand new anyways).
However the engine isnt firing up as it cranks. Im thinking it could either be bad fuel filter, fuel injector, or spark plugs.
It just took 3 tries tonight to get it started which motivated me to post so i am going to check my spark plugs tomorrow but if you think it could be anything else give me your opinion please.
also if you do think its a fuel filter or injector problem: these arent hard to replace by myself right? thanks
However the engine isnt firing up as it cranks. Im thinking it could either be bad fuel filter, fuel injector, or spark plugs.
It just took 3 tries tonight to get it started which motivated me to post so i am going to check my spark plugs tomorrow but if you think it could be anything else give me your opinion please.
also if you do think its a fuel filter or injector problem: these arent hard to replace by myself right? thanks
08-01-2006, 07:35 PM
#2
I've been having a very similar problem, but it's very random. Sometimes it'll start right up, other times I'll have to let it crank for several seconds and after several attempts have to tap the gas to get it to start. It happens when the engine is cold, and when it's been running....I can't figure it out. When it does get started, it runs great.... no problems whatsoever.
My current plug have less than 30,000mi on them, mostly highway. My gas cap is always on tight, and there are no codes stored in the ECU.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
My current plug have less than 30,000mi on them, mostly highway. My gas cap is always on tight, and there are no codes stored in the ECU.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
08-01-2006, 07:53 PM
#3
ya once its started it runs fine. i have also noticed it only happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours, if the engine is still warm it will fire up. i just read this in a how-to and am going to try some things tomorrow but would still like some feedback.
Why do I have such terrible gas mileage/why is my car starting hard?
Low gas mileage can come from any number of places. Let's start with the basics. Keep in mind the following for optimal gas mileage: use 91+ octane fuel, try to keep RPMs below 4k (normal), your car must be in overall good working order (good oil, good coolant etc) and other factors. If you're doing a bunch of 5 minute trips, or its 0 degrees outside, don't expect gas mileage to be so hot. Also keep in mind that different types of gas can have an effect on the mileage. Shop around to find the best gas you can. But if none of these describes your preidcament, read on. Below are some common causes and cures for bad gas mileage.
1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.
2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: www.maximadriver.com
3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop. Sprintmax has a great spark plug changing writeup that can be found here: http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/sparkplug.htm
4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: www.motorvate.ca
5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).
6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). www.buyoxygensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to www.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org
7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (www.thepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at www.motorvate.ca
8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.
This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
Low gas mileage can come from any number of places. Let's start with the basics. Keep in mind the following for optimal gas mileage: use 91+ octane fuel, try to keep RPMs below 4k (normal), your car must be in overall good working order (good oil, good coolant etc) and other factors. If you're doing a bunch of 5 minute trips, or its 0 degrees outside, don't expect gas mileage to be so hot. Also keep in mind that different types of gas can have an effect on the mileage. Shop around to find the best gas you can. But if none of these describes your preidcament, read on. Below are some common causes and cures for bad gas mileage.
1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.
2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: www.maximadriver.com
3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop. Sprintmax has a great spark plug changing writeup that can be found here: http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/sparkplug.htm
4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: www.motorvate.ca
5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).
6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). www.buyoxygensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to www.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org
7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (www.thepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at www.motorvate.ca
8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.
This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
08-01-2006, 10:34 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 60
I bet you that your fuel pressure regulator is begining to fail. Over a few hours the FPR leaks out the gas fumes, creating a gap in your fuel line.
This is a common problem with Mazda's and some Ford's. I do now know if the fuel system on the Maxima primes or not. If it does, just leave it in the accessory position for a few seconds before starting the car to allow it to build the proper fuel pressure. If it does not, try getting a gauge and finding out what fuel pressure you read when you start the vehicle and comparing it to a normally starting Maxima. Or just put a new FPR on, OEM or aftermarket
Otherwise, the previous post pretty much nails everything else on the head.
This is a common problem with Mazda's and some Ford's. I do now know if the fuel system on the Maxima primes or not. If it does, just leave it in the accessory position for a few seconds before starting the car to allow it to build the proper fuel pressure. If it does not, try getting a gauge and finding out what fuel pressure you read when you start the vehicle and comparing it to a normally starting Maxima. Or just put a new FPR on, OEM or aftermarket
Otherwise, the previous post pretty much nails everything else on the head.
08-02-2006, 07:10 AM
#5
I wouldn't say that it is your starter, but if you haven't changed or re-greased your starter before, you should not dismiss the possibility of your starter going. At least at the initial phase, there seems nothing wrong with the sound of turning/cranking. I didn't think it was a starter either at first, but re-greasing completely fixed my difficult-to-start-engine issue. Besides, re-greasing a starter is cheaper and probably easier than replacing fuel filter, fuel injector, or spark plugs.
08-02-2006, 07:29 AM
#6
My starter needed to be regreased as well. I regreased it the weekend before last but it didn't solve the problem. It sounds a lot better now, but it still often takes several seconds of cranking before it starts. To me it seems to be fuel or air related.
The odometer just rolled over to 217,000 a few days ago and the entire fuel system is original. I'll probably start replacing components of it beginning with the lesser expensive parts and working my way up in price. That seems to be my only option right now.
The odometer just rolled over to 217,000 a few days ago and the entire fuel system is original. I'll probably start replacing components of it beginning with the lesser expensive parts and working my way up in price. That seems to be my only option right now.
08-02-2006, 10:30 AM
#8
when i had this problem, it was my ignition coils. but, i have a 99 which is known for bad coils...if u cant figure it out u could always do what i did once which is bring it to the dealer and let them look at it for $40 then when they tell you what it is say "thank you can i have my keys?" and go home and fix it.
08-02-2006, 10:39 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 355
Okay, okya, okay many people here including myself have run into this problem. For the most of us it happens after we have had out trannys replaced, other well i dont know. For most people cleaning the ground terminal to the transmission fixes this problem. For others replacing the Negative cable is what fixes it. If this does not cure your problem check for codes its probably a craak sensor...
08-02-2006, 01:02 PM
#10
ok so tomorrow im changing my fuel filter. do i have to get one of these from a dealership or can i pick one up at any autoparts store. Also i read that some ppl use a nissan 300zx filter cuz its the same hose size but twice as big so its more efficient. If i did get one of those does anyone know what year 300zx id have to use and also would it easily fit right in or would i have to do some modifications to the brackets holding it in.
also i was wondering if it is worth spending extra for iridium spark plugs over platinum ($7 vs $3 at NGK.com)
Thanks for the replies so far.
also i was wondering if it is worth spending extra for iridium spark plugs over platinum ($7 vs $3 at NGK.com)
Thanks for the replies so far.
08-02-2006, 01:09 PM
#11
I wouldn't go to the dealer to buy something as simple as a fuel filter... I'm going to Autozone or Advance to get mine. I'm going to try to change it tomorrow or Friday.
First I'm going to try what xxtavixx suggested, holding the key in the on position to let the fuel pressure build for a few seconds before starting the car.
First I'm going to try what xxtavixx suggested, holding the key in the on position to let the fuel pressure build for a few seconds before starting the car.
08-02-2006, 03:11 PM
#12
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Atlanta Ga
Posts: 1
Yes yes yes. I can relate to all of you with the starting issues. I just bought a 1995 maxima from a good friend of mine. He told me the car needed a new starter. After replacing the starter motor I tried to give the car a crank. The engine turned over with enough force and speed to crank, but it just would not run. I had a friend try as I was looking over the engine compartment. On the second try it immediately ran. When I asked what he did, he told me "I very lightly taped the gas." that was two days ago. The car has started occasionally since then. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. As of yesterday, the car will not start at all. It just turns over and over but will not run. Frustrated, I inspected the engine and found no broken or cracked wires or blown fuses anywhere. I noticed air coming from the exhaust when trying to crank the car so I assume there is compression. I just bought and replaced the crank/ cam position sensor located on the timing chain cover. All with no results. I am wondering what else I could check that is not-so-obvious and maybe not too expensive as I am trying to keep from paying a million bucks at a repair center. Anyone have any ideas?
08-02-2006, 08:05 PM
#13
well im putting in a new fuel filter in tomorrow and ill let you guys know if it helps my car start better. i guess ppl are saying they need to be changed every 15k to 30k miles
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