This thread is really alive now.

How hard is a flywheel to take off a parts car?

 

Well if for some reason you do need to unbolt the tie rods, there is no need for that for that special tool. Like "praetoryan" said, just take a hammer and smack the hub right where the tie rob bolts up and it will pop right out, just make sure you dont hit the tie rod.

 

Well you would have to pull off the tranny to get to it. Just look around on ebay or the for sale section, im sure you can find one.

 

All of you guys have been a very good help. Thank you.

I'm sorry for being a n00b, I hope someone else can benefit from this thread.

 

There's no guarantee that hammering will always work. Besides, that tool is loaned. You get all your money back when you return it.

 

no way, i changed my pass side axle, and needed no tie rod popper, just drop the 2 bolts on the shock, pull off the big nut, and a few other small things ( like moving the brake line outta the way) and ur good to go. they pop out...

 

I don't recommend using the stock clutch lines. For my car I used the SS clutch line connected to a Raybestos custom bend brake line. It's much much easier to bleed and install. I've had no problems after 10k+ miles.

 

I will worry about the lines after everything works for sure once installed. I want to upgrade to SS lines.

A couple more things. I will need to get a manual starter? And also a manual transmission mount? Is it possible to get these parts used? I am looking at a parts car right now. Or do I have to buy them new?

 

You can reuse your auto starter since they are the same. You'll have to get a manual tranny mount though.


Not flaming but have you read the 5-speed swap parts list sticky in the all-motor forum?

 

It would be hard to test anything out without the clutch lines installed....

 

I'm talking about stock clutch lines. Or can't you reuse them?

Thanks for the link. That is what I needed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Honestly you shouldnt even bother with getting stock lines, they are a HUGE pain in the *** to manage, just start with a SS line that goes directly from the master to the slave. It will save you SO much time during install and bleeding.

 

Where can I get the SS lines? Group deal?

 

Yup, found them!

You guys can probably tell how excited I am for this swap.

This should be a STICKY.

 

ill tell ya its worth it im gonig on 2 weeks with my swap and i still grin everytime i get in the car.

 

Yea, no shiiiiieeeet. I'm loseing sleep over it. I can't wait to start it.

 

umm, what does the spacer between the clutch pedal and the firewall supposed to look like?

 

A piece of metal with a loop on each end I believe.

 

Oh yea, can I take that off a parts car? Or is it welded into the body. Seems like I will have to get it at the dealer.

 

Yes you can take it off another car, its just two bolts and a pin that holds it onto the pedal.

 

Cool. I have to wait for the guy with th parts car to PM me back.

 

So are you still interested in my stuff?

 

I have to get back to you. This other guy hasn't responded since Friday.

 

Let me know

 

If you have a buyer don't hesitate to sell to them.

 

I heard the spacer is welded on to the firewall, Can someone draw me what is supposed to look like? If not PM me an offer for it.

 

What the hell spacer are you talking about? There is the master cylinder which bolts ot the firewall and connects to the clutch pedal.

 

this is important!!! if you use the STOCK CLUTCH LINES, in order to make the master cylnder work properly you will have to use WASHERS or BUILD A SPACER!!! the exact number of washers i am not clear on since the nissan service dept put mine in for me but ill try and see if i can get a good look at it and tell you whats there.

 

Yea, it seems like there is a spacer against the firewall. It keeps the clutch from going to far into the master cylinder.

 

No there isnt, that thing that looks like a spacer is part of the clutch pedal assembly.

 

No, it isn't. The clutch pedal assembly has 2 long bolts that go through the firewall, in which about 3/4 inch of the two bolts are unthreaded. THIS is where the spacer sits.

Here is what the spacer looks like:

 

doh, Ive been looking at the completely wrong thing this whole time haha.

 

Thanks for the picture. Anyone ahve it for sale? Or where can I find one? I went to the dealer and they couldn't find it at all.

 

So it is welded in. I bet you could go to Home Depot and get some metal spacers. Can some one please give the correct length of the spacer?

 

Bump every night before bed so I can dream about it.

Is it possible to learn stick in a DREAM?

 

Damn, kid! If you lived anywhere near me, I would TEACH you!

I can't the 5th gen clutch kit enough. Thinking about using ANY other clutch on any NA non-nitrous 3.0 Maxima literally makes me laugh.

Big on the SS clutch line too. Soooo nice.

Also, if you can, try to get new master and slave cylinders. Those parts can definitely tire out with mileage.

 

The spacer that's in my car. The clutch pedal sits almost perfectly. Left side of the picture.



Here's an old pic of when I first got the pedals in.

 

you have a 5spd ecu? are you getting codes?

 

Auto ECU. Along with the 3.5 swap, I have enough codes to fill a 500 page novel.


But seriously, I have about 6 a/t codes. 12 codes in all...evap, egr, iacv, aps, etc.

The car runs fine.

 

yeah i got the 5spd ecu and i still get the evap codes. :<