I have a 99 Maxima GXE calif-spec, 90K miles.

After researching the matter, I was headed down the path of swapping in Amsoil Universal ATF -- thinking that the fluid would help extend the life of my transmission.

I, however, earlier today ran across a Nissan Service bulletin dated May 15, 1998 (NTF98-042) that #1 mandated that dealers use Nissan Matic 'D" ATF (not a real surprise) and #2 suggested that only Nissan Matic 'D' ATF or other ashless petroleum based ATF are forumlated to meet the requirementrs of Nissan automatic transmissions. It further states that ash will impact friction response and ATF with ash will have a higher zinc content that will adhere to clutch linings and cause slippage.

Can someone help?

> What does it mean for an ATF to be "ashless" and do most of the synthetic aftermarket offerings (Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc.) meet/exceed this requirement as well as the Nissan ATF?

> How do the synthetic aftermarket offerings compare relative to Nissan ATF in terms of zinc content?

I am wondering if ash/zinc are real issues and if I might be better off sticking with the Nissan fluids relative to risks, benefits.

I searched the maxima.org site and did not come up with any posts that mentioned "ashless"

Thanks.

 

Go for the Amsoil, it's great stuff. Been running it for a few years now.
Mobil-1 ATF is also excellent stuff.

Ashless? Your reading to much

 

Yea i dont know what nissan meant by that TSB, but just use good stuff and u should be alright

 

If your car has high miles don't, I say again don't switch to synth oil. Its thinner and it will leak under transmission seals. You will have all kinds of problem with shifting early, late, no shifting etc etc.

If you want to extend your transmissions life follow the following
1) Put sea foam transtune in tranny and drive for 150-200 miles
2) Pull pan down clean debries from transmission pan, You will be surprised to see what all crap will be there
3) Clean pan, replace filter & gasket
4) install an external transmission cooler in serial with radiator (hayden or similar)
5) power flush with a good Dexon-III
6) Put in a bottle of Lubeguard Red.

 

I don't know if this is the same for transmissions as it is for Engines but I know a guy that put synthetic in his truck had no problems and then went back to the dino oil with out any problems. He did this all at about 120,000. SO i mean i don't see a problem with atleast trying the synthetic.