Tire Pressure!
#3
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
32F & 28R for a nice smooth ride.
The car is front heavy, you should drop the rear pressure slightly to match the front tires footprint. Thats why the sticker indicates a lower rear tire pressure. Most FWD cars are set up that way.
The car is front heavy, you should drop the rear pressure slightly to match the front tires footprint. Thats why the sticker indicates a lower rear tire pressure. Most FWD cars are set up that way.
#7
A good thread (tread?
)...I was wondering the same since I've switched to my 235/45/17 setup. Incidentally, my '95 SE says to run 33fr/32r for the OEM 215/60/15. I read that you "should" increase the psi by 1 psi for a corresponding step up in plus size. That means that I should increase mine by 2 psi to 35f/34r since i went from 215 to 235. This suggestion is mainly to protect your rims due to the smaller profile.
BTW I've never heard of 33 front & 29 rear, I thought all Maximas had single psi differential front to rear
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
BTW I've never heard of 33 front & 29 rear, I thought all Maximas had single psi differential front to rear
#8
Originally Posted by Timothios
![Scratch](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/scratchhead.gif)
Dave
#9
This had nothing to do with Tire pressure, but i would recommend everyone getting Nitrogen in the tires instead of air. I just recently switched and it's WONDERFULL!!! (all the new auto makers are using it from the factory). I paid 26 bucks w/ lifetime refill. Just wanted to let you guys know.
#11
Originally Posted by 99se5speed
This had nothing to do with Tire pressure, but i would recommend everyone getting Nitrogen in the tires instead of air. I just recently switched and it's WONDERFULL!!! (all the new auto makers are using it from the factory). I paid 26 bucks w/ lifetime refill. Just wanted to let you guys know.
![GrinNo](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/grin_no.gif)
#13
Nitrogen is better becase it doesn't hold moisture and isn't as affected by temperature changes like regular air is. Grade "D" or "E" breating air like you will find in SCUBA or SCBA cylinders will work just as effecitively as nitrogen will due to its very minute traces of moisture. As to the question the OP asked, I don't know enough about that to have an informed opinion.
#18
i try to keep my tires at 35, but i think i have a leak in my tire wall somewhere.. .(front tires) i think i shall rotate them and see if the fronts just that much heavier. i dont think its supposed to be that way though.......whenever i check my pressure it always seems to look flat and never has 35 in it. it always drops to 31 or 32 and this is on just a couple of days driving. i hate used cars. NEW CARS FTW.
#21
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Tire pressure is dictated by the car, not the tires. Unless you're using race tires, just keep with 32/29 or something similar.
Dave
Dave
also, mine stock suggests 33 for F and R.
#22
Senior Member
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Well I put 32 F and 30 R in mine and couldnt believe the difference, much smoother and handles much better. the tires were wearing oddly but they'd had about 40-50 psi in them before I got the car.
#24
They suck. The ride VERY rough, handle and corner is killer sloppy, the grip is terrible in the summer and even worse in winter. The tread will be 1/2 gone after about 10,000 miles. Douglas tires are made by Kelly which is owned by goodyear.
Your better off with BFG's, i love mine
Your better off with BFG's, i love mine
#25
Originally Posted by super6
i beleive its a bit of both. oem tires on mine read 44 max psi, on new ones its 51. its better to go a bit higher than the recomended psi.
also, mine stock suggests 33 for F and R.
Dave
#26
Originally Posted by whitegold
I dont get why nitrogen is that great? Am I missing something.
My tires are 31, 35, 30, and 34... I really need to invest in another air pump.
My tires are 31, 35, 30, and 34... I really need to invest in another air pump.
Regular compressed air from the gas pump is poisoned with moisture.
![doublethumbsup](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/dblthumb2.gif)
#27
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by 99se5speed
All i know is that when i put in pure Nitrogen, i recieved a better ride quality, the car felt more stable on the highway, and it reacts to bumps better and softer...
#28
So then the consensus is you should go by the stock recommended pressure? Does anyone know then, if the profile/size of the tire makes a difference? Does that mean that if you go up to 225/40-18s, you should still go by the stock pressure, regardless of the maximum pressure of the tire?
#29
Originally Posted by Thorby
I've heard less corrosion caused by H2O.
If you don't have alloy wheels then it's safe to assume nitrogen holds no substantial benefits for you.
#30
Originally Posted by mszilves
So then the consensus is you should go by the stock recommended pressure?
However, there is consensus from experienced drivers and racers, and that is to use stock recommended pressures as a baseline and make tweaks from there. Tweaks such as:
- If the stock pressure is just one number for all tires, make the front a few psi higher than rear since an unloaded Maxima places more weight up front
- Add a few psi for slightly improved fuel economy on the highway, or when loading the car near its weight limit (like coming home from college
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Does anyone know then, if the profile/size of the tire makes a difference? Does that mean that if you go up to 225/40-18s, you should still go by the stock pressure, regardless of the maximum pressure of the tire?
Dave
#31
Originally Posted by chillin014
lets get this as a sticky so we can stop having threads and seeing how many idiots are running 50 psi in their tires because they read that on the sidewall.
32-35 is fine. end of thread.
32-35 is fine. end of thread.
cough.....scubasteve....cough
#32
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
You will never find a consensus on this forum. You have to be careful whether to trust what you read, that's all I'll say.
However, there is consensus from experienced drivers and racers, and that is to use stock recommended pressures as a baseline and make tweaks from there. Tweaks such as:
- If the stock pressure is just one number for all tires, make the front a few psi higher than rear since an unloaded Maxima places more weight up front
- Add a few psi for slightly improved fuel economy on the highway, or when loading the car near its weight limit (like coming home from college
)
Stock pressure. It may change some if you go with a drastically wider wheel, but unless you tubbed your maxima it would still be basically stock pressure.
Dave
However, there is consensus from experienced drivers and racers, and that is to use stock recommended pressures as a baseline and make tweaks from there. Tweaks such as:
- If the stock pressure is just one number for all tires, make the front a few psi higher than rear since an unloaded Maxima places more weight up front
- Add a few psi for slightly improved fuel economy on the highway, or when loading the car near its weight limit (like coming home from college
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Stock pressure. It may change some if you go with a drastically wider wheel, but unless you tubbed your maxima it would still be basically stock pressure.
Dave
![doublethumbsup](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/dblthumb2.gif)
#33
I have played around a lot with the tire pressure and found these numbers to work well for both good handling and a reasonable ride.
H&R springs
KYB adjustables set at 1 front and back
Wheels- 17" American Racing Alloys
Tires - Michelin Pilots - 225-45 MH4
front - 30 psi
rear - 27 psi
H&R springs
KYB adjustables set at 1 front and back
Wheels- 17" American Racing Alloys
Tires - Michelin Pilots - 225-45 MH4
front - 30 psi
rear - 27 psi
#34
The recommended tire pressure for my 95SE if 33F, 32R.
For the last 18 months, I have increased the pressure to above that.
I am currently running Yokohama Avid H4S and the OEM 15" sawblades with tire pressure set at 36F, 35R. I let the tire pressure drop back down to say 34F and 33R and re-inflate, particularly if I am going to do any amount of highway driving.
I think over the long haul this will translate into somewhat better fuel economy and tire life, at the expense of a slightly firmer ride.
For the last 18 months, I have increased the pressure to above that.
I am currently running Yokohama Avid H4S and the OEM 15" sawblades with tire pressure set at 36F, 35R. I let the tire pressure drop back down to say 34F and 33R and re-inflate, particularly if I am going to do any amount of highway driving.
I think over the long haul this will translate into somewhat better fuel economy and tire life, at the expense of a slightly firmer ride.
#35
Originally Posted by jjamzman
I have played around a lot with the tire pressure and found these numbers to work well for both good handling and a reasonable ride.
H&R springs
KYB adjustables set at 1 front and back
Wheels- 17" American Racing Alloys
Tires - Michelin Pilots - 225-45 MH4
front - 30 psi
rear - 27 psi
H&R springs
KYB adjustables set at 1 front and back
Wheels- 17" American Racing Alloys
Tires - Michelin Pilots - 225-45 MH4
front - 30 psi
rear - 27 psi
#36
Originally Posted by Bobo
The recommended tire pressure for my 95SE if 33F, 32R.
For the last 18 months, I have increased the pressure to above that.
I am currently running Yokohama Avid H4S and the OEM 15" sawblades with tire pressure set at 36F, 35R. I let the tire pressure drop back down to say 34F and 33R and re-inflate, particularly if I am going to do any amount of highway driving.
I think over the long haul this will translate into somewhat better fuel economy and tire life, at the expense of a slightly firmer ride.
For the last 18 months, I have increased the pressure to above that.
I am currently running Yokohama Avid H4S and the OEM 15" sawblades with tire pressure set at 36F, 35R. I let the tire pressure drop back down to say 34F and 33R and re-inflate, particularly if I am going to do any amount of highway driving.
I think over the long haul this will translate into somewhat better fuel economy and tire life, at the expense of a slightly firmer ride.
#37
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Those pressures seem a tad low since the OEM w/stock 15" sawblades are 33front/32rear (on my '95 SE anyway). Not very much lower, but I bet your car feels a little sluggish with a hit on fuel economy. I'm on eibach/illumina (setting 2 all around) & dropped back to 33fr/32r from 36/35. Big positive difference in ride, I'll monitor fuel economy.
jjam
#38
Originally Posted by jjamzman
It might seem that way, but you have to remeber that these are also bigger tires. It doesn't take as much psi to support the same weight with a larger footprint. With these settings, the tires just barely have a perceptible flat spot on the bottom. I am getting 24mpg combined driving, so they are not dragging. The ride and feel are better and so is wet performance. With more air, it was easy to get the rears to brake loose in a hard stop. Not now. Everything seems better.
jjam
jjam
Dave
#39
Originally Posted by jjamzman
It might seem that way, but you have to remeber that these are also bigger tires. It doesn't take as much psi to support the same weight with a larger footprint. With these settings, the tires just barely have a perceptible flat spot on the bottom. I am getting 24mpg combined driving, so they are not dragging. The ride and feel are better and so is wet performance. With more air, it was easy to get the rears to brake loose in a hard stop. Not now. Everything seems better.
jjam
jjam
#40
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Here's a thought.. a wider tire does not give you a "larger" footprint, it changes the shape of the contact patch. Typically, a high aspect ratio tire will have a long, narrow footprint, while a low aspect ratio will have a short, wide footprint. This is why wide tires tend to hydroplane more than a narrow tire & perform poorly in snow.
jjam
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