Yesterday the car died in the middle of the road during rush hour. I pushed it into an apartment complex parking lot. Car wouldn't start so I thought it might be out of gas. Put 1.3 gallons of gas in it and nothing. After a few minutes the CEL stayed on during starting, I got the code 0402 which is the fuel pump temperature sensor. I don't know how to replace it. The fuel pump wasn't getting power because of it I assume. Progressive sent a tow truck out but they said the car is too low to tow So I left the car there overnight and luckily the apartment place didn't tow it or anyone mess with it.
So this morning I figured I would wire the fuel pump up directly. I did that and the car still doesn't start. I have no idea on what to do anymore. The Emanage logged the injectors fireing during start up so I assume they are fireing. Does the ecu need the fuel pump to have a complete circuit for it to send the proper start signal? What do I need to do? The CEL has not come back since I reset it. I am out of ideas. I can't even get the POS towed.

 

That sux bro, sorry to hear.
Was it a flat bed truck? If so I dont see why they cannot tow it. Ive had mine towed many times. I just had it towed a couple of weeksago. I have to remove my front lip and have the tow truck driver bring boards for it to drive up on so that the front end doesnt scrape.
I feel your pain though. Id hate to have to leave the max out in public over night like that.

 

I can't remove my front lip But it wasn't a flat bed. I will try to get one today if I can't get it started.

 

Uh, how is the lip installed? Glued on? You might want to consider remounting it, there will be many more times you will need to remove it in the future.
Flat bed is always the way to go, most drivers already carry some wood to pull thecars up onto to avoid scraping the front end on the trailers bed, but might want to ask them anyway.

 

The EU logged the injectors at 29m/s, isn't that too high? Or is that normal for cold starts?

 

It is molded on

 

The fuel pump isn't getting power still when the car is in ACC position, it gets a ground. The ground goes away if I direct wire it. So does that mean the relay is good?

When i direct wire the + and - on the pump, I can hear the pump turn on but the car still won't start. WTF do I do?

 

Do you have one of the older EU units?

There was a guy on the emanage forums that had his ignition buffer chip come detached while driving which killed his spark immediately. He bypassed the coil wiring to the EU while on the side of the road and continued on his way.
If you have not already, I would check for a regular spark.

 

EU didn't say any ignition errors when I plugged it in. But why would that cause the fuel pump not to turn on?

 

fuel pump fuse under the dash?

 

It's good. I am gonna go test the relay and see if there are any under hood fuses in a lil bit.

 

roger. have you messed with the pump at all in the last month?

 

You will not got any ignition errors with a detached buffer chip. I had an early production EU with the chip problem and my car would not start with the ignition running through it.

That fuel tank temp sensor is only used for diagnostics. It will not stop your car from starting.

 

I checked the power at the fuel pump relay and it is getting power. But the fuel pump is not getting power.

I don't see how this relates to the EU. I don't have the allen key to open the EU either.

Also it died a mile or 2 back and it turned on just fine and I drove it and it died again and wouldn't turn back on, which is another reason I don't think it is the EU

 

No I have never messed with the pump.

 

1 am just throwing suggestions out there.

You said when you wired the pump directly, it turned on but the car still not start. Fuel pumps do fail while the pump motor continues to operate. However usually it is a gradual thing as the output pressure falls off due to internal leakage (wear) in the pump itself. Pumps will typically start to become noisy if this is occuring and you will have ample warning of the impending failure. It is also possible to have the line between the pump discharge and the tank outlet come loose but I would think that is extremely rare.

I didn't expect you to open up the EU, just take a couple of minutes to pull out a plug and check for spark.

 

its the pump.

 

You figure it out ??

-matt

 

I assume it is the pump, it is not loud at all when I direct wire it. Gonna tow it here with the G35 or my buddies Accord V6 lol.

 

lol dude, get a flatbed out there ... **** even if insurance doesn't cover, just ge tthe yellow pages and sstart calling em. Just let em know the car is a little lowered.

avoid using the G lol

 

Kevlo, when my max died exactly as yours has it was neccessary to replace my fuel sending unit, not the fuel pump. I belive the car thinks the fuel temp is too hot when the sensor goes so it shuts down the fuel pump. My battery also died during the event. The sending unit should get rid of the code for you as to weather it's the whole problem or not, I'm not sure. My problems fully went away after replacing the fuel sending unit, the battery, and the ECU. Good luck!

 

The code won't come back for it tho. How much was the part and do you have the part number?

 

I had to buy from a dealer. Appears to be "SENDER UNIT" "25060-4L700" And I can't find my receipt for some reason but I remember it being about $127 or so. Less than $150.

 

Yeah. Hopefully the dealer has in stock.
I seriously hope that is my problem.

 

Good luck! keep us posted

 

When you run a car low on gas, like you seemed to have done, often the fuel pump will burn out. The gas acts as a coolant for the pump, and with little gas, the pump gets hot, and burns out. That is my bet.

 

I didn't run the fuel low it still has a over a quarter tank The reason I added fuel is because for all I knew the guage was messed up.

Towed the car here with the Honda

 

Is it possible to unplug your EU from its harness, I'm not sure if it would start normally without it plugged in, but if you could, it would rule out something going wrong with it

 

Na I would have to rewire it. I am confident it is not the EU.

 

It is not the sending unit, When I did my swap, I ran my car for several days without it even plugged in. Just had power to the fuel pump terminals so the engine would run.

 

I see, so the pump maybe? It sounds really really low(when I direct wire it), it's not much of a whine.

 

Do you have a FP Gauge? It is pretty easy to T it into the outlet line on the tank using a couple of short lengths of hose, a tee and some clamps.

I wouldn't deadhead the pump into the gauge though. Quite often a failing pump can maintain pressure at zero or minimal flow. You still want the fuel to flow thru the regulator at the rail

 

If you do get it towed...Gainesville Nissan FTMTL. Avoid at all costs. I go to Newberry Road Imports. You can hardly understand the Japanese owner named Phat Phu, but its either them or Ahrens Z-Car Specialist, and just by talking to the guys at both places/their attitudes, it was no contest in my opinion.

 

I hate to jump on your thread but I just got my acct. and I cant make new topics. Anyways, I just picked up my 1st Maxima it's a 99 SE a few months ago and at first it was running fine. Untill we had a really cold morning here in Jersey, when I started the car up in the morning it made a grinding sound as it was starting and it didn't stop for a good 2 or 3 seconds after the car had started. I just thought that the starter was going out. But then when I put the car in gear it just died. I tried this 2 or 3 times and it kept happening untill I let the car warm up. Now I still get that grinding sound every once in a while but I also have what feels like a misfire (once the engine is hot)when I'm driving in traffic or if I try to accelerate quickly. Once or twice as the car was sputtering I floored the gas and forced the car to accelerate which caused my "service engine soon" to start flashing but that's it. I pulled the codes from the car but all I got was a malfunctioning KS (P0325)code. Has anyone else gone through this? I really don't think KS is causing this much trouble, besides I unplugged it and the car performed exactly the same way.

Can anyone point in me in the right direction as to what is causing this?

PS - Thanks again for letting me jump on your thread

 

So you still don't have power at the pump unless you hardwire it?If so i would start there and figure out why. When you hardwire the pump pull the hose off the fuel rail and see if gas comes out.

Or you could spray some starting fluid (ether) into the tb and see if it fires.

 

I will go buy one/rent one tomorrow and see what happens.




I hope I don't have to take it anywhere. Ya the place next to Newberry Imports installed my alarm. Good work

 

check your starter fuse under the dash, just a hunch.

 

Starter works
The start signal fuse is good as well.

 

my brain has just exploded, im still going with the pump.

 

Ya I am too now

FSM says if I can pinch the line while pump is on, the pump is bad. I don't feel any pulses like the fsm says I should.