ben805

Do you guys know what size bolt do I need to remove the front rotors? I didn't see anything about it on sticky...the write up just said use 2x4 to tab it, whatever the heck it mean.

matty

iTrader: (54)

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

14mm for the calipers
17mm for the brackets

cruzer82

iTrader: (4)

I think he means what size bolt goes in the hole to that forces them off the hub if they're rusted stuck... and if that's what your talking about it's not necessary, just hit it with a hammer a few times(not on the friction surface) a few blows with a sledge hammer should break it free... that's what i've been doing for years and never warped a rotor ones.. just watch out not to hit the wheel studs, or you'll mess up the threads.

ben805

yea I was talking about the bolt to force the rotor out of the hub, found out that it was 10mm x1.25 thread size bolt, 25~30mm length...had both rotors and pads replaced including flushing the brake fluid in less than 2hr.

the_3d_man

iTrader: (1)

I'd use a heavy hammer and a 2x4. That way you can place the wood around the surface of the rotor and hit it hard. Don't be afraid to hit it hard!!! (just make sure the jack stands are supportig it good) It can take it. It has to take the abuse of the road. You won't hurt it. Move the wood around the edge. Don't just hit it in the same spot over and over. It make take a couple of minutes.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

No, find the bolt. It will be a 10 or 12 but you need to have the correct (for lack of better term) space between the threads. Thread pitch I believe is what I am thinking of.

I used one of the many common Maxima bolts I had around and it popped right out, banging it any more than twice is just more headache.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

Did not see this post......

Statement stands

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I think it's an M8 bolt.

But you can just wail at it with a soft-face hammer, or a couple of ear-stinging taps with a sledge. Just make sure there is a lugnut on or you could drop it.

Dave

ben805

Last time when I put the duralast pads on...I couldn't get them out regardless how and where I hammered the crap out of stock rotors, the suckers were like welded on, well...I guess that's suppose to happen after 10 years The right bolt size is M10 x1.25, got the 35mm version from HomeDepot for like $1.50 /ea, with these bolts it took absolutely no effort to force the rusty rotor out of the hub.

Not sure how these Brembo OEM replacement rotors gonna hold up, hope they won't warp in couple thousand miles.....do you guys have any experience with these? I have the Hawk HPS pads on them.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Rats, I really thought it was M8. Oh well, I just have a box of metric bolts and I never look at the labels.

I've used Brembo blanks on my fiance's car and she's hard on brakes. They have held up very well. You can't do better at $50/corner.

Dave

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Jesus. heavy hammers? Bolts? if the rotors are that rusted on i am pretty sure that hole you are referring to is locked up tight and you would snap the bolt before breaking the rotor free. want the quick easy solution? put the wheel on, barely put on the lugs. let it roll fwd for a couple of inches and SLAM ON THE BRAKES!! (they arent called brakes for nothing). if you are too scared to do that use a heavy rubber mallet (which is also great for removing tie rod ends from the spindle without damaging the rubber or damaging threads).

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

The why would the hole exist?

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

its obviously there to remove the rotor... but as u soon will find out that not always is that bolt gonna remove the rotor.. its gonna break off in there....

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

Oh really? Is that why I have used them more than once?

Sorry, but the cavemen method is wrong.

ben805

the bolts I got were heavy duty stuff and rated at "high torque", and I put some anti-seize on the threads to lube it up real good so it went straight in with almost no resistant.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Ghetto. Not to mention you can badly damage the lugs and the wheels.

If you're going to skip the jacking bolt method, then at least when I say to hit things with a hammer it's the part thats going to be thrown away.

The bolts have worked wonderfully for me on all 3 cars that I've done brake work on, and all of them had upwards of 100k of rusty miles on them. It does not require much torque, and if I were pressed I could produce a few calculations showing just how a little torque produces a tremendous separating force. Just a tiny bit of penetrating oil and I was able to thread in the bolt by hand.

Really, seriously if you don't have experience with this little trick you have no ground to criticize it nor to propose something even less practical and safe.

Dave

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

i have no experience with it? wow. you must be everywhere i am and see everything i see oh great one. i know one thing, if you were as great as you claim to be........................THEY WOULDNT HAVE BEEN RUSTED ON! and your "hammer method" wouldnt do much good for a situation where the rotors weren't being replaced now would it.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

So how good of a mechanic you are determines how much rust is on a rotor? You don't know what the hell you are talking about.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

Quoted for ya.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

the same type that makes sure their plugs arent rusted into place and has to get them out etc.

2 words for you....................

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

You don't need to be a pro mechanic to understand why it's important to know how to deal with a stuck brake rotor. Really, it's such a common and simple thing that I KNOW you haven't done brakes. Because if you had, and moreover you worked on a car driven in NYC's salted winter roads, you'd appreciate that cast iron rotors tend to stick to carbon steel hubs. Because if you had dealt with sticking wheels before you might have experimented with anti-seize and found that even that doesn't prevent it.

Not to mention that if rotors were never supposed to stick to hubs, why Nissan or Brembo or any brake rotor supplier would bother to tap in those jacking holes. But you don't have an answer for that.

FWIW, in case anyone wonders why I would take a hammer to my brake rotors, it's because I was too lazy to walk over and fish out the appropriate jacking screw. Two whacks with a hammer is quicker when the hammer is within reach.

I'm done with you. When you figure out how to open your hood maybe I can help you find where to pour in oil.

Dave

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

All rotors were treated with anti-seize... you are on the slow side man.

This was your advice:

I would post mine again, but it is in any Nissan FSM. I wonder why Nissan doesn't tell you to go slam on the brakes like an idiot?

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

While we are on expertise, Grey and Hunter Green are not colors for any Nissan Maxima. Please research and find out what color cars you have. LOLz

smotz

iTrader: (3)

Didn't know the special olympics where going to be held on the maxima.org forums so frequently. Holy crap guys relax...

Anyways. I did my front brakes / rotors 2-3 weeks ago. I got the brembo blanks and hawk hps also. My driver side rotor was stuck on and I went to the parts store (with one of the new rotors) to get the corroct bolt to get the rusted frozen one off the car. When I got back 15 minutes later with 2 bolts I saw the rusty rotor laying on the ground by my car. My dad got it off by giving it a wack with a hammer while I was out buying the bolts. The pass side rotor came off soon as I took off the caliper. Go figure.
Next time, I think I will just try the wack it with a hammer method first, just because it has the potential to be a faster method.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I used spare bolts I had around, I even did it without my dad.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

U ARE ALL PUSSIES.....If the rotor is stuck and ur replacing the rotor...a few careful hammer blows arnt going to harm anything...and I GUARANTEE that 98% of all mechanics even NISSAN TECHs and dealers use a hammer to get stuck rotors off when replacing the rotors

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

this is true. but my point was, if this ever happened and the rotors were not being replaced the brake or rubber mallet were more effective. of course any mechanic as great as the one up there should ensure his rotors never get that stuck. he must work @ pepboys.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

The funny thing is I HAVE hit my rotor with a solid hammer after a few deafening blows I went to the box, got a screw and it came off 45 seconds later. Whatever works. Getting out and slamming on the brakes is STILL retarded.

96i30azn

I heard hitting your rotor with a metal messes up your bearings. Those are pretty expensive.... using some bolts are cheaper.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

For the fellas in the harsh climates: When installing rotors, if you clean the mating surfaces and coat them with high temp grease, will they still end up sticking together by the next brake pad change?

Jae

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I've tried it, and IME the grease tends to dry out from the heat of braking, and I don't put much on there for fear of it flinging out onto the brake pads. I think a light thin coat of copper antiseize is best, since when the carrier grease dries out there is still copper flecks in there to prevent it from bonding fast.

The anti-seize doesn't solve the problem but it helps a lot. My fiance's eclipse even has problems with the wheels sticking to the hub - when I first worked on it I needed a heavy hammer smashing on a 2x4 to loosen the wheel from the hub. Now it's not near as bad since I keep that fitted surface slightly lubed with anti-seize.

As for a hammer blow damaging the bearings - yes it's possible in theory to damage them. But compared to the abuse of driving over potholes this is nothing. I'm talking about tapping with a 2lb sledge, not driving it with a huge mallet. If you're going to hurt anything, it's your eardrums.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

of course not!! according to Mr Goodwrench, you can hit that thing with a hand grenade. (of course the hand grenade wont loosen it but the screw will).

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

i clean the mating surface with a air diegrinder with rol-loc sanding pads and use grease...they still stick but they are def. easier to get off....beating it with a hammer can mess up wheel bearings if u continually beat them....but most of the time a few kwik blows will do the trick

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I love how people assume. My car is from the midwest, not GA.