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dek motor in a 98...how hard

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Old 11-21-2006, 05:49 PM
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dek motor in a 98...how hard

ok my motor died today (literally, today). ive been looking at replacements. how hard is to to put in the 00\01 vq30de in a 98 5-spd and are there any problems with the check engine light, tubes, TB, etc that I should know about before buying the motor??? or should I find the lowest mileage 95-99 vq that I can find???
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:09 PM
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depends on what your looking for... id say personally for my self id look for a 00-01 motor. less miles and more power. im not to versed on this topic but im pretty sure that the engines in the 95-99 are about the same as the 00-01.
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:20 PM
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so i shouldn't have any problems with the ecu, egr, or anything else
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:25 PM
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Just out of curiousity howd your motor die? and how many miles??
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Old 11-21-2006, 06:53 PM
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at first I didn't know, but me and my co-worker had been talking and we came up with a theory. I killed the temper on the block. take a hot piece of metal (engine block), drop it into something cold (big *** puddle of water), and it will weaken the metal, to the point where it will crack.

the car car got flooded last thursay, i had been driving out in the rain all day. hydro-planed into a 2 foot deep puddle of water. with a lowered suspension i knew i was running into trouble. flooded the engine, and interior. 2 coil packs went bad other than that i thought i was fine. pulling off from a toll booth i hear a large bang, pull over oil all over the ground...a tow, $80, and 2 hours later my mechanic says that the engine is blown. ohh and 106,000 miles
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:18 PM
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why dont you just get a vq35.. or just get another 3.0 and do a VI swap..
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Digital Alchemy
at first I didn't know, but me and my co-worker had been talking and we came up with a theory. I killed the temper on the block. take a hot piece of metal (engine block), drop it into something cold (big *** puddle of water), and it will weaken the metal, to the point where it will crack.

the car car got flooded last thursay, i had been driving out in the rain all day. hydro-planed into a 2 foot deep puddle of water. with a lowered suspension i knew i was running into trouble. flooded the engine, and interior. 2 coil packs went bad other than that i thought i was fine. pulling off from a toll booth i hear a large bang, pull over oil all over the ground...a tow, $80, and 2 hours later my mechanic says that the engine is blown. ohh and 106,000 miles
Hmmmmm, doesnt sound like fun, anyway free bump because ive been wondering this as well....although knock on wood my original vq is still running like a champ
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:25 PM
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damn, the puddles are taking everyone out...wasn't there another guy a week or so ago that had a similar problem (dgeeseman?), but didn't blow the motor? If you're not going to heavily modify the car and just want it to cart yourself around, just get a 95-99 motor....I feel you'd get less headaches with a direct swap. But then again, if a 00 engine is a direct swap too, go for that due to the higher likelihood of lower miles on available engines.
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 97Maximus
why dont you just get a vq35.. or just get another 3.0 and do a VI swap..
funds are not coming from my pocket, so im trying to improve, but not make it noticeable. the only person that should be able to notice is my mechanic. i found a 32k vq30de for $745 shipped, is that a decent price??? what else should I look into buying. i was looking in to replacing the clutch and flywheel. i guess now as good a time as any!!!
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:55 PM
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Seems like a decent price, not the best, but low miles and shipping included is nice, also yea, do the clutch and flywheel at the same time
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Old 11-21-2006, 08:50 PM
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sounds decent... you better add in a IACV adapter plate.. and an rpm switch..
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Old 11-22-2006, 05:03 AM
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That was a DE for that price ?? I got a DEK out of a 01' earlier this year for $690 picked up with 8557 miles with a 6 month warentee. Keep looking and dont get anything over 15K miles in my mind. They are out there just keep making phone calls till you find one.

The dek is a fairly direct swap in with some little changes. Get yourself an IACV plate, flywheel, clutch and youll be pretty much set.
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:52 AM
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I have a quick question, what does the IACV Plate do(apart from removing the IACV) and what is an rpm switch and what does it do?
Thanks
Ed
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 95mtlMAXSE
What does the IACV Plate do(apart from removing the IACV)
Allows the IACV to mounted away from the Manifold.

Originally Posted by 95mtlMAXSE
what is an rpm switch and what does it do?
Opens up the manifold
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Old 11-22-2006, 08:08 AM
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So this adds power??? THe IACV is not completly eliminated??
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Old 11-22-2006, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 95mtlMAXSE
So this adds power??? THe IACV is not completly eliminated??
Having an IACV on your 00VI setup is good for start up issued and idle issues. To me its a must if your useing a 00VI/DEK

-matt
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Old 11-22-2006, 08:53 AM
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matty,
I try to stay updated on swap info so I kind of have an idea on what to do when I change my engine. I have read that you recently swapped to a dek. Is there a write-up similar to the 3.5 swap for swapping a dek into a fourth gen? I know there are scattered threads containing information about their dek swaps, but it would be nice if there was one thread for dek swaps containing all of the parts someone would need to buy, what components(sensors,alt.,starter...etc) stay and which ones get thrown out, and any other information needed to swap other than removing the de engine and dropping in the dek. Do you know anyone that wouldn't mind doing a write-up?

Also, something was mentioned above about a 3.5 swap. Do you know if the cam adapter/spacer issue has been resolved.

Sorry to hijack.
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by matty
That was a DE for that price ?? I got a DEK out of a 01' earlier this year for $690 picked up with 8557 miles with a 6 month warentee. Keep looking and dont get anything over 15K miles in my mind. They are out there just keep making phone calls till you find one.

The dek is a fairly direct swap in with some little changes. Get yourself an IACV plate, flywheel, clutch and youll be pretty much set.
Holy crap! Where did you get that motor from? Im in the process of doing a DE-K swap and I'm looking for a 01 motor. Thats a crazy good price with amazing mileage.
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by QnzMax
Holy crap! Where did you get that motor from? Im in the process of doing a DE-K swap and I'm looking for a 01 motor. Thats a crazy good price with amazing mileage.
It was a place in MA. I drove up to pick it up back in April

When you buying a low mileage motor what I did and what I think should people should do is get the VIN #. Run it through carfax and get a mileage on there. Ask the Salvage yard to get the ESN# off the block. (located underneath the TB kinda on that rear back slanting back towards the Firewall) Then Call up Nissan USA, phone number found on website, and confirm that that VIN# matches the ESN# on the block.

As for me, all the number matched up for 8,557 miles and the motor was sitting in-doors for 4 1/2 years.

-matt
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Old 11-24-2006, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by whitemax21
matty,
I try to stay updated on swap info so I kind of have an idea on what to do when I change my engine. I have read that you recently swapped to a dek. Is there a write-up similar to the 3.5 swap for swapping a dek into a fourth gen? I know there are scattered threads containing information about their dek swaps, but it would be nice if there was one thread for dek swaps containing all of the parts someone would need to buy, what components(sensors,alt.,starter...etc) stay and which ones get thrown out, and any other information needed to swap other than removing the de engine and dropping in the dek. Do you know anyone that wouldn't mind doing a write-up?

Also, something was mentioned above about a 3.5 swap. Do you know if the cam adapter/spacer issue has been resolved.

Sorry to hijack.
that would be a great idea if my uncle gets the nerve and i get the time.i would do my best to find out anything i can to help out!
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:49 AM
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Mmmm.... I one day will also have a DEK in my car. I want the transmission to go with it though.
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by matty
Having an IACV on your 00VI setup is good for start up issued and idle issues. To me its a must if your useing a 00VI/DEK

-matt
so if i get a dek and put the whole thing in should i still get the IACV
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:21 PM
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needed parts
1. vq30dek
2. IACV plate
3. RPM switch

sensors from de to dek
1. bell housing
2. cam position
3. throttle position sensor
4. coolant log sensor

extra work
1. jb weld swirl valves (maybe)
2. swap evap system
3. rewire fuel injectors

i heard that you should swap all of the sensors from the de to the dek is that true??? ohh does anyone know the part numbers for the updated 5th gen coil packs???
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Digital Alchemy
Does anyone know the part numbers for the updated 5th gen coil packs???
Your new motor should come with the updated Coil packs

-matt
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:22 PM
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Sounds pretty much like a straight foreward weekend project to me, or am i wrong?
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Old 11-25-2006, 06:04 AM
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well I just finished my 2nd dek swap yday. I got a motor at a yard in SC and had it shipped to me. It is a 2000 fed spec engine with 120 actual miles! I paied $650 for it and $100 for shipping. $750 total. I called lots of places and some of them told me 50k miles was low and really good! haha I just said thanks an hung up! I will do a write up today or tomorrow. I have a 95 so I dont have evap. I used my flywheel, I just got it resurfaced. I got a new clutch and starter. with the 5th gen tb I cant hook up the egr correctly. So I am getting an adapter plate for the 4th gen tb from stephenmax to solve this. I kept the cps sensor on the dek by the timing case but swapped the sensor on the block/bellhousing with mine from my de because my ecu didnt read the one from the dek. I dont have an rpm switch yet. I am going to get a vafc2 and lc 1 to tune and use the vafc2 as my rpm switch too. I have a full 2.5 inch exhaust and am blaming that for my backfire out the muffler so that is y im going to tune.
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Old 11-25-2006, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by matts95max
It is a 2000 fed spec engine with 120 actual miles! I paied $650 for it and $100 for shipping. $750 total
lucky the best i could find so far was 600 for a 24k engine. karma really has her foot in my a$$ this month
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:22 AM
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once you find one make sure you get the vin and run it to check mileage and then get the esn # off the engine and check it with nissan to verify that the motor was suppose to be in that car with the vin #.
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